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Rock sliders

MikeF

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Although not configuring with roo-bar, am considering rock sliders (for benefit of protection vs cost of weight). Is there any reduction in either or both of clearance or ramp-over? My use will be on forestry fire-trails and national parks roads, on farm use as well as overlanding eventually.
Thanks in advance!
 

MileHigh

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I wonder about this too. I got into the Dev model at the recent show here in CO, but I tried to be really careful since they said it was a one-off parts- and I’m a fat guy. So used the tube step to go up and in and when got out I went up and out, rather then just sliding in and out. I get into my son’s Wrangler without using the side steps, so I think I’d follow suit in my own IG.

They said that the ’pure’ rock rails that are right next to the body and the ones that protrude out a bit are both true rock rails. I’ll just have to see, but I doubt that I’ll put larger than stock tires or a lift, so probably the lower profile ones…
 

etbandit

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For those seeking info on the weight of the rock sliders and Roo bar. Below is Ineos's response on the phone:

Rock sliders 51.2kg (pair)
Tow ball 6kg
Bull bar 40kg (for hoops and standard bar).

I don't have experience we with bull bars, but does that seem a little light considering the sliders are 51.2kg. Perhaps the the Roo bar hoops as an option is 40kg on their own???
 

DaveB

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For those seeking info on the weight of the rock sliders and Roo bar. Below is Ineos's response on the phone:

Rock sliders 51.2kg (pair)
Tow ball 6kg
Bull bar 40kg (for hoops and standard bar).

I don't have experience we with bull bars, but does that seem a little light considering the sliders are 51.2kg. Perhaps the the Roo bar hoops as an option is 40kg on their own???
The bull bar will be lighter than a normal bullbar as it keeps the original Grenadier steel bumper.
Most bull bars replace the original bumper as part of the bull bar and weigh 70-100 kgs
Bar.jpgBar3.jpg
 

grenadierboy

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The bull bar will be lighter than a normal bullbar as it keeps the original Grenadier steel bumper.
Most bull bars replace the original bumper as part of the bull bar and weigh 70-100 kgs
View attachment 7796633View attachment 7796634
DaveB-

Any thoughts on how easy/difficult it would be to remove the Roo Bar if, for example, it was not required for a significant period of time (to remove weight from the car) and then to put back on?
 

Disco Dave

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For those seeking info on the weight of the rock sliders and Roo bar. Below is Ineos's response on the phone:

Rock sliders 51.2kg (pair)
Tow ball 6kg
Bull bar 40kg (for hoops and standard bar).

I don't have experience we with bull bars, but does that seem a little light considering the sliders are 51.2kg. Perhaps the the Roo bar hoops as an option is 40kg on their own???
100 kg of payload gooone, right there. Am getting the side bars as well, there goes another 20. Oh and the winch, another 20.
On the upside, I will prob get the max factory suspension upgrade, then again, I may not.
Nearly forgot, am getting the 2 seater, so subtract 50kg for that.
 

DaveB

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DaveB-

Any thoughts on how easy/difficult it would be to remove the Roo Bar if, for example, it was not required for a significant period of time (to remove weight from the car) and then to put back on?
It looks like it bolts through the existing bumper, with those plastic bungs covering the access holes to get a socket into, so that should be very easy.
That's what I was trying to see when I took those pictures.
I am going to mount lights on it so I doubt I will ever take it off
 

Tazzieman

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100 kg of payload gooone, right there. Am getting the side bars as well, there goes another 20. Oh and the winch, another 20.
On the upside, I will prob get the max factory suspension upgrade, then again, I may not.
Nearly forgot, am getting the 2 seater, so subtract 50kg for that.
Pack gin , it weighs less than beer!
 

DCPU

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AUSTRALIA-012.JPG

They seem to be the main bolts through the bumper and maybe even into the front crossmember but there may also be bolts verticality looking at the front with the bumper off:

AUSTRALIA-007.JPG

And watching that Oz film again it seems curious that they are taking off the roo bar and the bumper they are putting on is plastic.
 

globalgregors

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Although not configuring with roo-bar, am considering rock sliders (for benefit of protection vs cost of weight). Is there any reduction in either or both of clearance or ramp-over? My use will be on forestry fire-trails and national parks roads, on farm use as well as overlanding eventually.
Thanks in advance!
There will inevitably be a small reduction in clearance, although arguably with the rock sliders you can belly over some obstacles which would mean an increase in ramp over in some situations. You wouldn’t need them on trails/unsealed roads, as an overlander IMHO they’re worthwhile only if you’re doing eroded technical trails or soft surfaces where the primary use is as a jacking point for recoveries.
 

DCPU

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These are the steps, but the pick up points are the same and you get a good idea of the real estate the sliders will be taking up:
Screenshot_20220929_075938_com.google.android.youtube.jpg
And then the sliders:
Screenshot_20220512_075535_com.google.android.youtube.jpg
And the damage they will hopefully prevent:
FB_IMG_1644761212101.jpg
 

globalgregors

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DaveB

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View attachment 7796644

They seem to be the main bolts through the bumper and maybe even into the front crossmember but there may also be bolts verticality looking at the front with the bumper off:

View attachment 7796645

And watching that Oz film again it seems curious that they are taking off the roo bar and the bumper they are putting on is plastic.
 

Krabby

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DCPU

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Difficult choice for mine… that’s a lot of weight and to be clear that valance would be easily fixed.
It's a surprising amount of weight when you see it written down. They must be quite thick walled.

In the final photo, what material is that edging below the door? Is that easily replaced?
I have no idea ~ on later PT02s it looked like a heavy duty plastic very similar to the material in the bumpers. My only concern with re~attaching them is whether they will have JLR like plastic clips which when they break usually take some of the mounting tab with it and so end up being one use only unless you're handy with plastic welding tools.
 

MikeF

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Thanks for those excellent images, it helps affirm my decision. The weight is some concern re payload etc but I tend to travel light and camp lightweight style. TheThese are the steps, but the pick up points are the same and you get a good idea of the real estate the sliders will be taking up:
View attachment 7796650
And then the sliders:
View attachment 7796651
And the damage they will hopefully prevent:
View attachment 7796654
These are the steps, but the pick up points are the same and you get a good idea of the real estate the sliders will be taking up:
View attachment 7796650
And then the sliders:
View attachment 7796651
And the damage they will hopefully prevent:
View attachment 7796654
Thanks for the excellent images. Helps affirm my decision. The payload trade-off is worth it for me and I tend to travel and camp in lightweight style anyway, and the extra weight is located nice and low. I had forgotten that they also provide a jacking point, bonus. Thanks again.
 

MileHigh

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What is the situation going to be with the skid plates underneath? I know a lot of pictures haven’t been released of the underneath, I’ve been keeping people from looking at some of the shows.
 
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