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Recall notice

I got the letter for the recall. I never had a problem with sticking door buttons. I’ll probably complete the recall when the parts are available. The thought of a door opening while driving is terrifying.
Mine did not stick for six months and progressively started. It is fairly easy to “unstick” but if you miss it and don’t see the warning light, the door will fly open. I know from experience. 😳
 
The dash panels are easily removed to gain access to the tumbler. I had no issues with my door knobs before the recall and I have no issues with the door knobs after the replacement. My key still turns, the grenny still starts, the wheels still go round and round

Thanks for keeping it real… worse things can happen to our knobs and buttons as things age right? :oops:
 
It is fairly easy to “unstick” but if you miss it and don’t see the warning light, the door will fly open. I know from experience. 😳
Yes, I've also had a passenger door fly open on a turn because of this. The door can give its pleasing -thunk- closed sound yet still fail to latch if the button sticks.

Anyways, I had the dealer "fix" this twice in the past six months. But all four side door buttons still stick semi-regularly. The fixes were useless.

So I'm happy to receive my recall notice in the mail and let them do something more intense. Nice idea and nice form, but bad implementation by Magna/Ineos.
 
I noticed a couple of mine were sticking today (2024 vehicle but new to me). Quick squirt of lubricant in the lock and push the button a few times while open, and they now seem fine. New locks seem like overkill?
 

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I noticed a couple of mine were sticking today (2024 vehicle but new to me). Quick squirt of lubricant in the lock and push the button a few times while open, and they now seem fine. New locks seem like overkill?
It’s a flaw. You shouldn’t have to spray the door handles on your brand new $90k vehicle with lubricant every 3 months. I get that works and I was doing that until an incident with my daughter. I shouldn’t have had to yell at a 6yr to hold onto the inside door handle from her booster seat to keep it closed til I could find a safe place to pull over., which was a problem because I didn’t become aware of this until I was entering a roundabout because the sensor was not showing it open and we couldn’t tel going 5mph in bumper to bumper school traffic until we got to the roundabout. I know enough to notice when the buttons were sticking but the 5th grade safety patrol at school doesn’t (funny enough, they get confused the by button all the time and try to just pull it without pressing the button weekly)

I got mine replaced a few weeks ago.
 
It’s a flaw. You shouldn’t have to spray the door handles on your brand new $90k vehicle with lubricant every 3 months. I get that works and I was doing that until an incident with my daughter. I shouldn’t have had to yell at a 6yr to hold onto the inside door handle from her booster seat to keep it closed til I could find a safe place to pull over., which was a problem because I didn’t become aware of this until I was entering a roundabout because the sensor was not showing it open and we couldn’t tel going 5mph in bumper to bumper school traffic until we got to the roundabout. I know enough to notice when the buttons were sticking but the 5th grade safety patrol at school doesn’t (funny enough, they get confused the by button all the time and try to just pull it without pressing the button weekly)

I got mine replaced a few weeks ago.
Sounds scary!

I was spraying the lock, but it might not last long either.
 
My locks were replaced this week… 2 new keys. Although I never had any issues, they do seem to operate smoother now.
 
I had all my door handles replaced under warranty a few months ago along with A/C warranty update. Doors sticking again….anyone else have the problem return after they were replaced?
 
Had mine fully replaced about two months ago and have been working perfectly (noticeable difference) since. Previous to the full replacement and the recall, dealership took everything apart and relubricated the locking mechanisms to fix the buttons sticking. However, the relubrication "fix" only lasted about two weeks; first good rain caused the issue to return. Definitely needed to replace the whole locking mechanism and since the replacement, the issue has not returned.
 
I had a different issue after they replaced mine…
The rear door is never truly locked!
It will open if pressed but only one indent to the “not properly closed” position. This is fine but…..
It sets the alarm off which is embarrassing and irritating 😠
 
I adjusted the strike plates on my doors because they had either shifted or were not right. See if your door is even this the body edge along the latch side. Two of mine were not in far enough, so the lip of the door was sticking out, one was right and one was too far tight. Now they all close with a nice thud and none of them have the boot wash issue...
 
I adjusted the strike plates on my doors because they had either shifted or were not right. See if your door is even this the body edge along the latch side. Two of mine were not in far enough, so the lip of the door was sticking out, one was right and one was too far tight. Now they all close with a nice thud and none of them have the boot wash issue...
I did this too. Driver door was perfect. Passenger door had to slammed every time. Quick adjustment of the striker plate fixed that.
 
Last Friday on a trip the button for the small rear door wouldn't push in far enough to unlock the door. I didn't force it and used the interior lock to open it. Afterwards the problem didn't reappear.

Today I decided to look into where the problem lies. The first thing I noticed when I removed the inner trim from the door was how little torque ALL the securing screws had - same with the large door. The soft rubber seal around the outside must act as a spring to keep tension on the screws: none of them were missing or any more loose than the others.

After checking all the linkages and cables and applying silicone lubricant everything seemed to be working freely so I put everything back together. l tried the button a few times and it seemed fine but after a few more openings of the back door the button became much more resistant on one try. This time I did force it and it unlocked the door.

The U-shaped fitting on the large door looked pretty dry so I thought that might be where the problem was occurring. After cleaning and lubricating it the stiffness now seems to be gone. If it comes back I will see whether pushing the small door in at the same time as pushing the button - taking the tension/friction off the claw and horseshoe - frees up the button.

Anybody else suffering this glitch might like to report back whether this technique worked for them.
 
Last Friday on a trip the button for the small rear door wouldn't push in far enough to unlock the door. I didn't force it and used the interior lock to open it. Afterwards the problem didn't reappear.

Today I decided to look into where the problem lies. The first thing I noticed when I removed the inner trim from the door was how little torque ALL the securing screws had - same with the large door. The soft rubber seal around the outside must act as a spring to keep tension on the screws: none of them were missing or any more loose than the others.

After checking all the linkages and cables and applying silicone lubricant everything seemed to be working freely so I put everything back together. l tried the button a few times and it seemed fine but after a few more openings of the back door the button became much more resistant on one try. This time I did force it and it unlocked the door.

The U-shaped fitting on the large door looked pretty dry so I thought that might be where the problem was occurring. After cleaning and lubricating it the stiffness now seems to be gone. If it comes back I will see whether pushing the small door in at the same time as pushing the button - taking the tension/friction off the claw and horseshoe - frees up the button.

Anybody else suffering this glitch might like to report back whether this technique worked for them.
Yep, some white zinc lube on the U-shaped fittings and slight compression on the rear door while one depresses the button(y)
 
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