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Rear driver side door lock no longer working

Asnes

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Hi All. Seems my rear driver side door handle no longer opens the door, from the inside or outside. There is no resistance on the button on the door handle (just moves in/out without resistance)…. And same for the interior latch that you pull to open and get out (no resistance).

Door handle button moves freely, just no longer activates the latch itself, so the door stays closed. Locking / unlocking has no effect.

Thoughts? My dealer is a solid 2-3 hours away dependent on traffic.

Uhg I’m betting the internal cable slipped off or something. I don’t really want to pull the interior door panel.
 
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anand

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If the cable popped off, that would seem logical for the inner handle not working, but the outer button should be directly linked to the door latch mechanism.

It's been a long time since I've seen a rear door card completely off in person, so this is from memory
 

Asnes

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Good point. Perhaps the lock mechanism failed somehow and it is remaining locked. I will test behavior of the button/handle on another door when it is locked to see if it demonstrates the same behavior.
 

Asnes

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So finally got the truck into the shop….. The actuator in the door failed…. And failed in the locked position…..

Crowne ineos in St-Petersburg FL were awesome. They tried removing the door at the hinges to get at the panel screws on the bottom side to remove the interior panel, but that was not viable.

Ultimately they had to remove the interior panel from the inside (with the door closed) and it was destroyed in the process. They replaced the lock actuator and door panel with new parts by dismantling a new / unsold car on the lot and using it for donor parts. It could have taken months to get replacement parts otherwise. Ineos approved the repair and approach.

I’m grateful for the excellent service. These guys are top! Job took 8 hours to complete / they knocked it out in a single day and I was on my way.

I bet that replacement door panel costed $2k at least…
 

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So finally got the truck into the shop….. The actuator in the door failed…. And failed in the locked position…..

Crowne ineos in St-Petersburg FL were awesome. They tried removing the door at the hinges to get at the panel screws on the bottom side to remove the interior panel, but that was not viable.

Ultimately they had to remove the interior panel from the inside (with the door closed) and it was destroyed in the process. They replaced the lock actuator and door panel with new parts by dismantling a new / unsold car on the lot and using it for donor parts. It could have taken months to get replacement parts otherwise. Ineos approved the repair and approach.

I’m grateful for the excellent service. These guys are top! Job took 8 hours to complete / they knocked it out in a single day and I was on my way.

I bet that replacement door panel costed $2k at least…
Great to read of top quality customer service. Glad you were back to normal so quickly.
 

MileHigh

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WOW. Was it a design, production or some other reason for the failure? That sounds incredibly expensive to fix out of warranty…

They can’t remove the interior panel from the door? What if a window breaks???
 

anand

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They can’t remove the interior panel from the door? What if a window breaks???
Pulling the door panel is pretty quick and easy in general, especially when you can open the door
 

Asnes

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WOW. Was it a design, production or some other reason for the failure? That sounds incredibly expensive to fix out of warranty…

They can’t remove the interior panel from the door? What if a window breaks???
The third-party electronic latch mechanism just failed and would no longer actuate.
 

Asnes

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Pulling the door panel is pretty quick and easy in general, especially when you can open the door
Very true if the door is open, of course. The problem is the door was closed and locked, with no way to open it. There’s at least one torx bolt on the underside of the panel above the sil that is in accessible if the door is closed.

They first tried delicately and got it to pry off about 12 inches from the door with the bottom of the panel still attached… But it wasn’t enough to fully get after the latch mechanism. They had no choice, but to pry it off and snap it / break it in two so they could get out the locking mechanism to manually actuate it to then open the door.
 

MileHigh

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What about using a ‘jimmy’ stick or something? Is that possible on these doors as a way to unlock them?

Any pics? I don’t know what kind of probability there is on this, but out of warranty I might want to take a DREMEL tool to the inside of the door and patch it? Or drill near the locking mechanism to trip the lock engagement? I don’t have my IG yet, just trying to think of other cars.

If only we had repair manuals available, I wouldn’t have to speculate about the set up?
 

anand

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Very true if the door is open, of course. The problem is the door was closed and locked, with no way to open it. There’s at least one torx bolt on the underside of the panel above the sil that is in accessible if the door is closed.
I could be wrong as it has been months since I've looked at the rear door card carefully, I thought the rear doors didn't have the torx on the bottom.

Either way, glad your vehicle is fixed and back in proper order!
 
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