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Power steering noise

Eric.S.

Grenadier Owner
Local time
5:40 PM
Joined
Jun 27, 2022
Messages
55
Hello everyone;) I was finally able to pick up my grenadier yesterday🥳 Unfortunately, I noticed at home that my power steering makes a strange noise. I think it's not a normal noise, or? The filling level in the container was at maximum with the engine warm but switched off. The German instructions do not say exactly in which condition the oil should be checked. Does anyone have an idea? I tried to post a video but I always see the file is too big (7mb)
Thank you;)
 
Centering isn't as critical on Yota and rover because the CV joint is centric on the wheel spindle via a bearing or bushing depending on specific build. The CV joint is in a sealed knuckle or swivel ball. The Grenadier has an open design with a Double Cardan. This requires the shaft be fixed or centered on both sides of the joint. I have already seen gauled shafts on Grenadiers.

I disagree - in part. Because the inner axle on Toyota front ends is sealed at the outboard end (and bushed) there's no room for offset at the other side of birfield. Everything has to be kept in perfect alignment. 90wt is kept in the axle housing and grease is isolated inside the ball by the seal I posted a link to. Dana axles, for example, are sealed just outboard of the diff and a royal pain to replace. But they don't fail often because there's no play so close to the differential side gears.

When I look at the image that @Logsplitter posted it looks like the Carraro axles are also sealed at the outboard end just like Toyota stuff. I can't tell for certain. It would be cool if they are because the third member isn't removable as with Toyota.

Expect future version of the Grenadier to come with a redesigned axle with CV's someday. To be fair I like the Cararro axle, I just don't think it's going to win over the masses and is expensive as compared to more traditional road going vehicles like Rovers and Yotas.

I'm in no way opposed to improvements. Here in the US we'd all probably prefer a Dana 60. I get that. But I'm not always happy with closed knuckle designs despite their resistance to dirt and debris entry. The problem for me with them is that you can't tell what's going on until the things are fairly well advanced so I'm not wishing for that either.

I'd like to live with the Carraro front end long enough to know how it fares. It could prove to be outstanding. It sure looks strong. Galling would be a metallurgical problem easily corrected with a minor materials change - not a total redesign.
 
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I disagree - in part. Because the inner axle on Toyota front ends is sealed at the outboard end (and bushed) there's no room for offset at the other side of birfield. Everything has to be kept in perfect alignment. 90wt is kept in the axle housing and grease is isolated inside the ball by the seal I posted a link to. Dana axles, for example, are sealed just outboard of the diff and a royal pain to replace. But they don't fail often because there's no play so close to the differential side gears.

When I look at the image that @Logsplitter posted it looks like the Carraro axles are also sealed at the outboard end just like Toyota stuff. I can't tell for certain. It would be cool if they are because the third member isn't removable as with Toyota.



I'm in no way opposed to improvements. Here in the US we'd all probably prefer a Dana 60. I get that. But I'm not always happy with closed knuckle designs despite their resistance to dirt and debris entry. The problem for me with them is that you can't tell what's going on until the things are fairly well advanced so I'm not wishing for that either.

I'd like to live with the Carraro front end long enough to know how it fares. It could prove to be outstanding. It sure looks strong. Galling would be a metallurgical problem easily corrected with a minor materials change - not a total redesign.
Gauling in this case appeared to be due to misalignment. There is a huge bushing and seal on the axle side of the knuckle. Any misalignment will cause the shaft and bushing to fail.

And as for Yotas, same design as Rovers more or less. The axle seal is at the end of the tube. We often removed them and converted back to old school oil in both the axle and swivel balls, even removed the inner seals. Rover only introduced grease in the swivels to the USA in the 90's round about. They were damn proud of their one shot grease packets. I know all this because I was there and a tech at the time. Best I recall was because the oil leaked to easily. Anyways, the inner seals on the rover and yota have a huge allowance for misalignment in relative terms. They have to so that the seal holds up when the axles flex under max loads. I assume you realize your yota axles bend a bit when loaded right. That's partially why Yotas were trussed a bit to reduce this and help with leaking axles.

When I built axles professionally I used huge alignment bars that were 1.5" thick. You could easily slide the bar from one spindle end to the other without any interference, smooth as silk. But man if I used the wrong kind of seal at the ends of the tubes I would hear about it from customers. I learned that lesson quick. Axles flex far more than you can imagine.
 
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