Looks like we have choices in US for Diff Skid Plates

[Karearea]

I had the same issue when I installed my MetalCloak diff skids. Pulled the plastic plugs, threads were full of mud and surface rust. Had to tap the threads, 10x1.5, because the bolts just wouldn’t make it past the second or third thread All while laying on my back under the truck with not much workspace. Not too comfy, but got it done in about 5min and the plates bolted on no problem.

Same here but had to re-tap both the 10mm and 12mm threads. Just uncomfortable, and took some time. I was pleased the cheap ($20 NZD) tap and die set had the correct pitch of threads!

 

[DaneJa]

By the end of the day the $1000 install price was starting to look like a bargain. The cross brace and front skid were incredibly simple and quick to install, but it looks like they have some refinement to do on the rear. I didn't know when I ordered that we were getting essentially late prototype units. Owl has been very accommodating in helping us resolve issues, but there were several.

We had to drill two holes that were missing, get several pieces of hardware that were not included (mine are running without a bracket installed for this reason), and something is off with the dimensions or angle of the fuel tank skid rear support bracket. We had to apply quite a lot of force with a pry bar between the back lip of the skid and the axle housing to get holes forward of that to line up, placing the entire piece under quite of lot of spring tension. We found it necessary to start at the back of the truck and work forward due to this alignment issue. Owl recommended Locktite on the hardware but we elected for anti-seize and just ran them pretty tight. There were a couple other small refinements we passed along, but if they sort out the issues I mentioned I believe this will be a 3 hour job, mostly due to the sheer number of fasteners to work through. As it stands it took us 12 hours (with some breaks) to do two trucks.

The only other issue is an Ineos one: the threaded holes on the differential housings have plastic caps in them that probably do more harm than good by trapping water. The threads in there get rusty very quickly. My truck has a bit over 1000 miles on it and they were already rusting. Plan to have to clean those threads when mounting any diff skid.

All that said, these are extremely well conceived. The materials, welds, and powder coat are excellent. The improved cross brace really does provide more clearance in that area, but the fuel tank skid clearance as the lowest point is unchanged at a bit under 11 inches (on 35 inch tires).


Here's the vehicle side, as requested. Fasteners under the fuel tank get nylock cap nuts, I assume to mitigate risk if the plate is crushed into the plastic tank, the rest get nylock nuts. You would have to drop the plates to replace the UHMW plastic.

For those concerned about oil changes, I really don't think it's an issue.

We didn't take a ton of photos as it was a long day crawling around on the ground and we were pretty focused on getting it done. We mostly took photos for the Owl folks to reference for corrections.

I opted for black power coat, but I must say the unfinished aluminum on @ColoradoMike's is quite handsome.

 

[ColoradoMike]

By the end of the day the $1000 install price was starting to look like a bargain. The cross brace and front skid were incredibly simple and quick to install, but it looks like they have some refinement to do on the rear. I didn't know when I ordered that we were getting essentially late prototype units. Owl has been very accommodating in helping us resolve issues, but there were several.

We had to drill two holes that were missing, get several pieces of hardware that were not included (mine are running without a bracket installed for this reason), and something is off with the dimensions or angle of the fuel tank skid rear support bracket. We had to apply quite a lot of force with a pry bar between the back lip of the skid and the axle housing to get holes forward of that to line up, placing the entire piece under quite of lot of spring tension. We found it necessary to start at the back of the truck and work forward due to this alignment issue. Owl recommended Locktite on the hardware but we elected for anti-seize and just ran them pretty tight. There were a couple other small refinements we passed along, but if they sort out the issues I mentioned I believe this will be a 3 hour job, mostly due to the sheer number of fasteners to work through. As it stands it took us 12 hours (with some breaks) to do two trucks.

The only other issue is an Ineos one: the threaded holes on the differential housings have plastic caps in them that probably do more harm than good by trapping water. The threads in there get rusty very quickly. My truck has a bit over 1000 miles on it and they were already rusting. Plan to have to clean those threads when mounting any diff skid.

All that said, these are extremely well conceived. The materials, welds, and powder coat are excellent. The improved cross brace really does provide more clearance in that area, but the fuel tank skid clearance as the lowest point is unchanged at a bit under 11 inches (on 35 inch tires).


Here's the vehicle side, as requested. Fasteners under the fuel tank get nylock cap nuts, I assume to mitigate risk if the plate is crushed into the plastic tank, the rest get nylock nuts. You would have to drop the plates to replace the UHMW plastic.

View attachment 7900371

For those concerned about oil changes, I really don't think it's an issue.

View attachment 7900372

We didn't take a ton of photos as it was a long day crawling around on the ground and we were pretty focused on getting it done. We mostly took photos for the Owl folks to reference for corrections.

View attachment 7900375

View attachment 7900376

I opted for black power coat, but I must say the unfinished aluminum on @ColoradoMike's is quite handsome.

Thanks for summing things up Dane! It was a fun time and you are correct...this is a time consuming job. I am very happy on how it all turned out.

 

[MileHigh]

I think I’m ok with having them install it for me. I don’t have the lift, some of the tools, none of the patience, and no Dane…

 

[MileHigh]

Got mine installed today. Took them about six hours before I think two dudes. They said they have done a couple other people‘s installs too. I just hung out there while they did it. They had an extra office and I just worked remotely, like I do most days anyways.

I brought home my original X member. Maybe turn it into a coffee table support or something.

I took a peek halfway through the process. Looks pretty robust. I thought I had just paid for the aluminum version, but they had the black powder coated one. Looks pretty slick.

Just a guess on my part, but they confirmed that to replace the plastic parts. You’re gonna have to drop everything and then put it back in. That’s a pretty big pita and kind of defeats the purpose. My guess is the second version is going to be more plug-in play on the replacement, but just a guess on my part. I didn’t even mention that to them.

 

[Green Gren]

Here’s some pics of the MetalCloak differential skid plates. Made of 3/16” Steel w/ zinc coating and bent into its final shape, a lot less welds this way. Install was extremely easy once I tapped and chased the rusty bosses that the plates bolt into.

Haven’t had a chance to use them yet, but could have used them the last time out. Price was right and they are local(ish) to me.

 

[Brad@SuperiorCO]

Got mine installed today. Took them about six hours before I think two dudes. They said they have done a couple other people‘s installs too. I just hung out there while they did it. They had an extra office and I just worked remotely, like I do most days anyways.

I brought home my original X member. Maybe turn it into a coffee table support or something.

I took a peek halfway through the process. Looks pretty robust. I thought I had just paid for the aluminum version, but they had the black powder coated one. Looks pretty slick.

Just a guess on my part, but they confirmed that to replace the plastic parts. You’re gonna have to drop everything and then put it back in. That’s a pretty big pita and kind of defeats the purpose. My guess is the second version is going to be more plug-in play on the replacement, but just a guess on my part. I didn’t even mention that to them.

I want to see that coffee table....