I really didn’t notice it when I test drive my ca on Wednesday.front wall of the cubby (closest to the steering wheel)
I really didn’t notice it when I test drive my ca on Wednesday.front wall of the cubby (closest to the steering wheel)
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’ll still try to pursue getting the rear socket switched from the overhead panel. It’s the only aux. thing we need and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good oem switch. Plus I want some reason to flip those switches so I can pretend I’m in the Millennium Falcon.If your draw is truly minimal then it is easy enough to run the POS+ wire for the rear loadspace cigarette lighter socket directly to a blank stud in one of the Littlefuse junction boxes or even to the underseat battery which is only a foot or two away. Make certain to add an appropriately sized fuse as close to the stud as possible. This would make the socket forever hot. If you want to add a switch then interrupt the POS+ line to the socket and install one wherever you'd like.
Using one of the overhead basic aux. power switches would usually require de-pinning the corresponding relay in the underseat fuse panel and connecting the socket line to the correct relay contact instead (usually marked 30a I think). You'd lose an auxiliary outlet unless you doubled up on one of the other relays. This may not be ideal unless the remaining relay(s) can handle the load. Switch lines are relatively low amperage and control the relays. Relays handle the power to the outlets. You could also add another relay if there is a blank spot for one.
Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’ll still try to pursue getting the rear socket switched from the overhead panel. It’s the only aux. thing we need and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good oem switch. Plus I want some reason to flip those switches so I can pretend I’m in the Millennium Falcon.
This is a common hack done by US Cannonballers. Highly illegal - probably everywhere.My dream for years has been to have a switch in the car to have a stealth mode. No lights at all, not even brake lights. I wonder if that would be possible without the car calling the police by itself or - more likely- refusing to work at all. That would be a nice feature for hunting.
+1My dream for years has been to have a switch in the car to have a stealth mode. No lights at all, not even brake lights. I wonder if that would be possible without the car calling the police by itself or - more likely- refusing to work at all. That would be a nice feature for hunting.
So if you hit a deer and rolled down an embankment, how would that be explained on your insurance claim?My dream for years has been to have a switch in the car to have a stealth mode. No lights at all, not even brake lights. I wonder if that would be possible without the car calling the police by itself or - more likely- refusing to work at all. That would be a nice feature for hunting.
I didn’t really plan to drive on any roads without light and neither fast. Wouldn’t be that stealthy, would it?So if you hit a deer and rolled down an embankment, how would that be explained on your insurance claim?
"I didn't see the deer and it couldn't see me either , yet somehow we collided!"
You'll need an EV to be properly stealthy. And at night animals hear everything +++ anyway!I didn’t really plan to drive on any roads without light and neither fast. Wouldn’t be that stealthy, would it?
Yes, but poachers may not.You'll need an EV to be properly stealthy. And at night animals hear everything +++ anyway!
All military vehicles have that . The technology exists .My dream for years has been to have a switch in the car to have a stealth mode. No lights at all, not even brake lights. I wonder if that would be possible without the car calling the police by itself or - more likely- refusing to work at all. That would be a nice feature for hunting.
They deserve to be trappedYes, but poachers may not.
This 12V socket power query just gets more and more confusing.Thanks for the suggestion. I think I’ll still try to pursue getting the rear socket switched from the overhead panel. It’s the only aux. thing we need and it seems a shame to waste a perfectly good oem switch. Plus I want some reason to flip those switches so I can pretend I’m in the Millennium Falcon.
Maybe over the weekend an owner can take some time and mess around with the switches and power points and give a report back.This 12V socket power query just gets more and more confusing.
There is a wiring diagram that was posted on one of the Facebook groups showing the exact switching setup I am hoping to have. The first of the standard auxiliary power switches on the overhead panel is shown as manually providing permanent power to all the interior 12V power sockets regardless of ignition on or off. There was some debate following as to whether or not that was the configuration in production series vehicles, or just an old diagram from the prototype days. Interestingly, I note there the amperage shown on the switch in question seems to be greyed out (see my thoughts on this further down).
View attachment 7810232
Sure enough, when I looked back at some of my PT vehicle photos from February, this switch does indeed have labelling to suggest it manually switches aux. power on and off ,but no telling whether this includes the standard 12V CL and USB sockets and no amperage shown.
View attachment 7810230
I went through the on-line manual which has been posted here on the forum and annoyingly there is no real detail on the standard overhead aux. power switch panel main power switch. There are diagrams of the fuse boxes. The "interior electrical central fuse box" showing separate 10A fuses for the pre-wired LHS & RHS footwell wiring switches plus a 10A fuse for "Overhead Console Switch". Is this the third 10A pre-wired point under the bonnet or the main aux. power switch? The "cockpit electrical centre fuse box" also has separate 15A fuses for each of the 12V CL sockets and another 5A fuse for all the USB charging points.
So does that mean that if in fact the overhead switch referred to in the manual is the one in question, it's only 10A and not switching any of the 15A or 5A built-in points?
Yes It still works, used the system today doing tires a sat nav set up its with ignition off. Switch all 4 in the line on and the one on the left "energises" them and lights up. I left the first three in the on position as they do not become live until the main switch is thrown.Maybe over the weekend an owner can take some time and mess around with the switches and power points and give a report back.
Just like on my Lightweight, no lights at all
Just join BRIXMIS
Top of my list this afternoon - but I've already failed at the agents and the possibility is that they actually don't exist. The diagrams showing them were taken down quite soon and so they might have been more about future developments rather than current...I guess I may have missed this but has anyone actually found the Deutsch connectors in the footwells? This is a feature that I am really hoping to use to power HF and VHF comms equipment with. Alternatively, I will have to utilise the auxiliary battery and directly connect it to a power distribution box with separate fuses. I am still waiting to see if anyone makes a connector kit for the Deutsch DTP connectors (I know an Aussie company has already been mentioned here but cannot find a UK/EU equivalent). I don't want to splash out on wrong connectors/crimps if I am not entirely sure that they are the right thing to get.
They have the fuses in I gather, F129 and F130. If that is the case it is "live" on the fuse-box outlet so the feed must go somewhere?Top of my list this afternoon - but I've already failed at the agents and the possibility is that they actually don't exist. The diagrams showing them were taken down quite soon and so they might have been more about future developments rather than current...