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Game changer propshaft

  • Thread starter Thread starter Sven
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The Rzeppa/DC driveshaft combination will certainly fix the failing boot issue on the front shaft which is great. Besides IA not officially admitting the failures are a legitimate design problem and issuing a fix or recall. What other possible reason would/could IA point to as to why they wouldn’t adopt such a seemingly straightforward redesign even for new stock vehicles coming off the production line?

Is it cost, lack of engineering resources, running the DC at less than ideal angles, ongoing maintenance requirements to keep the DC happy. If the Rzeppa/DC shaft can potentially outlive a current front driveshaft even for non-lifted vehicles why wouldn’t they switch to it to try and cut down on the failures and bad impression these issue are creating for the brand?

You answered your question, this shaft would
not pass engineering. Not that it won't work, it just wouldn't meet the standards required for a production vehicle.
 
You answered your question, this shaft would
not pass engineering. Not that it won't work, it just wouldn't meet the standards required for a production vehicle.

Why ?!!!! of course this shaft required standards for a production véhicle , it's standard pieces assembled correctly .
 
The Rzeppa/DC driveshaft combination will certainly fix the failing boot issue on the front shaft which is great. Besides IA not officially admitting the failures are a legitimate design problem and issuing a fix or recall. What other possible reason would/could IA point to as to why they wouldn’t adopt such a seemingly straightforward redesign even for new stock vehicles coming off the production line?

Is it cost, lack of engineering resources, running the DC at less than ideal angles, ongoing maintenance requirements to keep the DC happy. If the Rzeppa/DC shaft can potentially outlive a current front driveshaft even for non-lifted vehicles why wouldn’t they switch to it to try and cut down on the failures and bad impression these issue are creating for the brand?

Honestly , i was in contact with some Ineos engineers , i don't know why they don't go to that ? the last replied I have for them is : no money to try that .

Maybe a solution from a little french guy is not acceptable by a large brand like Ineos . . . . !
 
Honestly , i was in contact with some Ineos engineers , i don't know why they don't go to that ? the last replied I have for them is : no money to try that .

Maybe a solution from a little french guy is not acceptable by a large brand like Ineos . . . . !
Maybe off to Magna Steyr for a tick of approval🤞then again they may have approved the original ;)
 
Honestly , i was in contact with some Ineos engineers , i don't know why they don't go to that ? the last replied I have for them is : no money to try that .

Maybe a solution from a little french guy is not acceptable by a large brand like Ineos . . . . !
Good engineering is just that good engineering. You and others who are exploring this style of driveshaft solution should take it as a compliment should Ineos adopt the same solution for future production. Maybe Ineos has tried this solution and for technical or longevity reason have dismissed it already?

It would be pretty ironic if their engineering standards deemed it a non-viable solution when their OEM shaft has documented failures at lower mileage on stock vehicles. Time and mileage will tell how well these upgraded shafts perform and they should beat the low bar Ineos set with their OEM shafts. Assuming folks understand they are not maintenance free and require greasing the DC components.
 
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Good engineering is just that good engineering. You and others who are exploring this style of driveshaft solution should take it as a compliment should Ineos adopt the same solution for future production. Maybe Ineos has tried this solution and for technical or longevity reason have dismissed it already?

It would be pretty ironic if there engineering standards deemed it a non-viable solution when their OEM shaft has documented failures at lower mileage on stock vehicles. Time and mileage will tell how well these upgraded shafts perform and they should beat the low bar Ineos set with their OEM shafts. Assuming folks understand they are not maintenance free and require greasing the DC components.
Double cardan joints are often built for Jeeps with non greaseable u-joints and centering ball. In my experience the greaseable u-joints do not last nearly as long so I prefer the sealed ungreaseable style. But the centering ball is much better in the greaseable variety. Otherwise they tend to develop a whine that requires a rebuild.
 
Double cardan joints are often built for Jeeps with non greaseable u-joints and centering ball. In my experience the greaseable u-joints do not last nearly as long so I prefer the sealed ungreaseable style. But the centering ball is much better in the greaseable variety. Otherwise they tend to develop a whine that requires a rebuild.

my one is greaseable , but i agree you have to do it with respect for the seals , and not too much , the centering ball is also greasable
 
Ever owned a 50s or 60s car?
Used to have to grease the kingpins around every 1,000 miles if I remember correctly. This would be a pain on current vehicles and mileage that we do compared to vehicles in that era. Could be under there every other day for some.
 
Why ?!!!! of course this shaft required standards for a production véhicle , it's standard pieces assembled correctly .
Because the angles involved exceed the continuous operating angle of the double cardan joint. This is a published spec. Can it work outside the spec, sure, but the legal liability of selling a $90k truck with a part whose spec is exceeded is off the charts.

You had better be disclaiming your shafts otherwise you could be lining up for legal trouble.
 
Double cardan joints are often built for Jeeps with non greaseable u-joints and centering ball. In my experience the greaseable u-joints do not last nearly as long so I prefer the sealed ungreaseable style. But the centering ball is much better in the greaseable variety. Otherwise they tend to develop a whine that requires a rebuild.
Following up on greaseable centering balls, usually it is necessary to disconnect one end of the drive shaft to access the grease point. This is because it is typically a needle fitting and you have to max out the angle of the DC to gain access to the fitting. I grease the one on my Jeep every 6000 miles and yes I disconnect one end of the shaft to do so. This is not great for convenience but I do get 50,000 miles between rebuilds so it is worth the hassle.
 
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Because the angles involved exceed the continuous operating angle of the double cardan joint. This is a published spec. Can it work outside the spec, sure, but the legal liability of selling a $90k truck with a part whose spec is exceeded is off the charts.

You had better be disclaiming your shafts otherwise you could be lining up for legal trouble.
So do we think the stock rzep is installed out of spec? I’m thinking dynamically out of spec not sitting on the lot.
 
Following up on greaseable centering balls, usually it is necessary to disconnect one end of the drive shaft to access the grease point. This is because it is typically a needle fitting and you have to max out the angle of the DC to gain access to the fitting. I grease the one on my Jeep every 6000 miles and yes I disconnect one end of the shaft to do so. This is not great for convenience but I do get 50,000 between rebuilds so it is worth the hassle.


on my one , the grease nipple is on exterior , really easy to do
 

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I know it’ll depend on many factors, but how often should it be greased? Is this more of an annual thing or monthly thing?


depend of how you ride , fast nor not , hot or not , and depend of the grease you put in the ball
 
on my one , the grease nipple is on exterior , really easy to do
For the u-joints the grease zerk is obvious and it looks like the grease point for the centering ball is also easily accessible. Well done Sven.

Every oil change just hit the zerks with a single pump from the grease gun. Don't overdo it and push out the seals.
 
For the u-joints the grease zerk is obvious and it looks like the grease point for the centering ball is also easily accessible. Well done Sven.

Every oil change just hit the zerks with a single pump from the grease gun. Don't overdo it and push out the seals.
Thank you. That’ll be easy to remember (assuming the manufacturer agrees) and easy to do, especially on these SUVs/trucks.
 
on my one , the grease nipple is on exterior , really easy to do
Sven,
Once again thank you for sharing your expertise.
Please explain how the grease travels to the centering ball from the zerk on the outer cage of the double cardan?
Versus traditional needle tool greasing the center ball.
Your design simplifies maintaining good operation between checks and servicing.
 
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