Is there a neutral position in the transmission for towing, or am I misunderstanding something right now?
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You can’t tow using the neutral selected from inside the vehicle, the towing neutral is only accessible from outside underneath the vehicle so not suitable if under water or mud bound.Is there a neutral position in the transmission for towing, or am I misunderstanding something right now?
There are multiple ways to hit neutral. If the truck is operational then of course you can put trans in neutral. You also have the option of putting the at-case in neutral via the hi/low lever. It can be tricky on some trucks to find but it's there for sure. Then there is a lever under the truck on the side of the trans that if pulled and held in place will hold trans in neutral. And the final way is to turn a selector nut on the transfer case underneath the truck to lock it in neutral.Is there a neutral position in the transmission for towing, or am I misunderstanding something right now?
Also difficult/impossible to access with (Rival) skid plate in place.You can’t tow using the neutral selected from inside the vehicle, the towing neutral is only accessible from outside underneath the vehicle so not suitable if under water or mud bound.
Also difficult/impossible to access with (Rival) skid plate in place.
Ok, here is my simple caveman answer. I was looking at the plate and boot on my new backup Teraflex. When my prior boot tore, it was midpoint down the shaft area of the rubber boot. I thought to myself "Hey self, what if we took a piece of rubber (like a section of bicycle inner tube,) and using some industrial rubber glue, stretching it over the rubber shaft, essentially increasing the thickness. It's like patching a tire before the blowout.examining my spare, and the location of most of the tears doesn't seem to be in an area that could pinch. They all seem ragged like a fatigues rubber band. I'm not sure what can be done to increase the droop by making that lip a greater diameter, but as far as the rubber goes, its formed with a curve, so it seems a larger bellow that would have more material and less overall opening and closing as the unit rotates, would cut down on the fatigue and maybe less tention on the rubber in the droop. rubber bands don't fail from flexing them back and forth, they fail from stretching.
Just an observation.
Great, Which glue stretches the most? I love the idea!Ok, here is my simple caveman answer. I was looking at the plate and boot on my new backup Teraflex. When my prior boot tore, it was midpoint down the shaft area of the rubber boot. I thought to myself "Hey self, what if we took a piece of rubber (like a section of bicycle inner tube,) and using some industrial rubber glue, stretching it over the rubber shaft, essentially increasing the thickness. It's like patching a tire before the blowout.
Your going with silicone, probably sikaflex 221Great, Which glue stretches the most? I love the idea!
AgreedVery good video, in my view.
He claims that putting larger tires on in general increases wear. Given the same driving conditions, with bigger wheels the torque on the driveshafts goes up, but the average rpm goes down.
As far as I understood not the joint itself is the problem, but the boot. But, IMHO, the boot lifetime should profit from reduced avg rpm(?)
EDIT: The other thing is: He doesn't appreciate that there has been at least one truck burnt out because of a failed joint. If you drive fast for ~500kms between filling up, you hardly have a chance to identify a failure, even if you look under truck every time you fill up...
i cant sit thru it. did he actually say that? quick clicking along the timeline i couldnt find that statement.Very good video, in my view.
He claims that putting larger tires on in general increases wear. Given the same driving conditions, with bigger wheels the torque on the driveshafts goes up, but the average rpm goes down.
As far as I understood not the joint itself is the problem, but the boot. But, IMHO, the boot lifetime should profit from reduced avg rpm(?)
EDIT: The other thing is: He doesn't appreciate that there has been at least one truck burnt out because of a failed joint. If you drive fast for ~500kms between filling up, you hardly have a chance to identify a failure, even if you look under truck every time you fill up...
I’ll go on your feedback. I can’t listen to anything that comes out of that guy’s mouth…Very good video, in my view.
He claims that putting larger tires on in general increases wear. Given the same driving conditions, with bigger wheels the torque on the driveshafts goes up, but the average rpm goes down.
As far as I understood not the joint itself is the problem, but the boot. But, IMHO, the boot lifetime should profit from reduced avg rpm(?)
EDIT: The other thing is: He doesn't appreciate that there has been at least one truck burnt out because of a failed joint. If you drive fast for ~500kms between filling up, you hardly have a chance to identify a failure, even if you look under truck every time you fill up...
This does not take 20 minutes to explain. Have to kill it near minute 3.
In fairness, he mentioned in the beginning that the lengthy explanation is for those with less experience than you presumably have...This does not take 20 minutes to explain. Have to kill it near minute 3.
I like written stuff more than video in any case. Regarding 4x4-related things, Tom Sheppard lost me on the 5th claim in his book that a locked center differential provides 50/50 power split between the axles. He knows it is not true, and he specifically mentions why near the first time he discusses a center differential, yet...In fairness, he mentioned in the beginning that the lengthy explanation is for those with less experience than you presumably have...
I admit I have FF several times to skip the parts I think I knew before.