Front Drive Shaft Update

[evomind]

Yeah....
No.
Ineos can come pick it up right where it pukes, Im not fixing that.

 

[HeavyFoot]

My last one took under 20min. Thats on my two post lift and impact tools. Putting on lift slows you down a bit and power tools slows you up a bit. Probably a wash. If you had a spare shaft you're looking at 10-15min. Greasing the joint takes a moment.

Per another’s suggestion, could someone pack the bearings and joint and wrap it in plastic and store that in the car rather than an unpackaged replacement? Is there a downside to this? This would remove much of the messy time spent packing the bearings. Of course more grease would be needed before install but then you could take your time prepping the new joint.

 

[Tazzieman]

Per another’s suggestion, could someone pack the bearings and joint and wrap it in plastic and store that in the car rather than an unpackaged replacement? Is there a downside to this? This would remove much of the messy time spent packing the bearings. Of course more grease would be needed before install but then you could take your time prepping the new joint.

Standard practise if you tow a trailer...well once you've had to deal with a knackered bearing not in the comfort of your lounge room, you know!
Spares need to include new cv bolts.

 

[Dokatd]

Per another’s suggestion, could someone pack the bearings and joint and wrap it in plastic and store that in the car rather than an unpackaged replacement? Is there a downside to this? This would remove much of the messy time spent packing the bearings. Of course more grease would be needed before install but then you could take your time prepping the new joint.

Absolutely

 

[255/85]

Tupperware.

 

[Shoogs]

If I still have this vehicle in coming years, and no real fix is found, will use the Agile shaft as a spare and simply make a bracket on roof rack for it, for longer remote trips.
As a few have mentioned on a dusty, windy and remote track, removing the shaft and changing the Rzeppa whilst it can be done is not fun, well at least not anymore, which makes me realise my age…

One thing though with a lift and bigger tyres it’s easier to access the bolts…

If you after better fuel consumption remove the front shaft it’s 10/15% better… as I have found out whilst waiting for a another joint.

 

[Tom109]

If I still have this vehicle in coming years, and no real fix is found, will use the Agile shaft as a spare and simply make a bracket on roof rack for it, for longer remote trips.
As a few have mentioned on a dusty, windy and remote track, removing the shaft and changing the Rzeppa whilst it can be done is not fun, well at least not anymore, which makes me realise my age…

One thing though with a lift and bigger tyres it’s easier to access the bolts…

If you after better fuel consumption remove the front shaft it’s 10/15% better… as I have found out whilst waiting for a another joint.

Or even carry a spare stock shaft (aside from cost).

 

[Roach]

Or even carry a spare stock shaft (aside from cost).

Has anybody asked for a spare (no cost) from INEOS? Seems like that would be the least they could do….unless they are saying it isn’t a problem (stock failures).

 

[Commodore]

Has anybody asked for a spare (no cost) from INEOS? Seems like that would be the least they could do….unless they are saying it isn’t a problem (stock failures).

They won’t even acknowledge this is an issue.

 

[OkGo]

They won’t even acknowledge this is an issue.

At least one dealer here in the UK, not going into names etc, when they do a underside appraisal for a vehicle will check for some 'known concerns' and the drive shafts, the seals for them are both included.

 

[Tazzieman]

At least one dealer here in the UK, not going into names etc, when they do a underside appraisal for a vehicle will check for some 'known concerns' and the drive shafts, the seals for them are both included.

That's akin for sniffing the air for smoke. The cause of the fire is being ignored.

 

[ORSO]

In the end, I installed a new original GRA-5D01-053980 shaft with the corresponding GRA-5D00-019750 screws.

However, I made a modification to the gearbox-side CV boot. I moved the boot closer to the joint. This is because, as you can see in the video, it reduces the strain on the rubber. closed with a Panduit inox trap.

I've also attached a video with the Teraflex boot mounted on the original CV joint, and as you can see, the rubber is under much less stress.

As for the torque at 25 Nm + 40°, it brings the torque to exactly 42.5 Nm.

Original CV:

 

[ORSO]

teraflex boot:

 

[ORSO]

modified original joint:

 

[TCMColorado]

In the end, I installed a new original GRA-5D01-053980 shaft with the corresponding GRA-5D00-019750 screws.

However, I made a modification to the gearbox-side CV boot. I moved the boot closer to the joint. This is because, as you can see in the video, it reduces the strain on the rubber. closed with a Panduit inox trap.

I've also attached a video with the Teraflex boot mounted on the original CV joint, and as you can see, the rubber is under much less stress.

As for the torque at 25 Nm + 40°, it brings the torque to exactly 42.5 Nm.

Original CV:

A simple change that I had never considered but the obvious reduction in boot flex could make a meaningful difference. Bravo.

 

[Tazzieman]

Are the boots clamped at exactly the same place at the factory? You'd presume they are, but to assume anything just makes an ass out of u and me.

 

[ORSO]

Yes the old driveshaft and the new one have the boots at the same position.

 

[Dokatd]

Are the boots clamped at exactly the same place at the factory? You'd presume they are, but to assume anything just makes an ass out of u and me.

In my experience yes. There is a ridge on the shaft that the boot is designed to lock onto.

I have yet to see any difference in life expectancy based on boot placement. If you set the boot too deep the boot starts to hit the star and cage. If it's out too much you end up with the natural fold of the boot at the pinch point. Anything between that including stock is not going to buy you any more time as the boot still gets pinched regardless.

 

[TCMColorado]

Is the boot actually getting pinched or is it wearing out because of a high degree of flex during each rotation of the drive shaft? Changing the boot placement will not help with pinching but it can reduce the amount of flex as demonstrated by ORSO.

 

[Dokatd]

Is the boot actually getting pinched or is it wearing out because of a high degree of flex during each rotation of the drive shaft? Changing the boot placement will not help with pinching but it can reduce the amount of flex as demonstrated by ORSO.

100% gets pinched. The rubber gets extruded by the pressure and thins out. Eventually it develops a tear which centrifugal force takes advantage of and finishes the boot off.

This happens on stock or lifted trucks. Just happens faster on lifted because you live closer to the extrusion point so daily driving causes pinch. Stock vehicles only pinch when off-road of driving a bit more aggressively on road.