Front Drive Shaft Update

[Ex-defender driver]

That is for a JK you need the one for the JL or JT.

Ahhh thanks

 

[Ex-defender driver]

Hi is this one. I’m thinking of getting a replacement to keep on board for travels.View attachment 7897088

Exactly what I'm gonna do. Im just installing Nimbus Shocks with the smallest lift. Think it would be good insurance to have a spare CV.

 

[Commodore]

We need a good DIY video on replacing a Rzeppa on our front driveshaft. I'm told that on the factory one you have to take an angle grinder to the backside plate to get to the retaining clip. If that is the case it might be worth replacing them early so if you have to do it on a trail then you won't have to grind the factory one off.

 

[Ex-defender driver]

We need a good DIY video on replacing a Rzeppa on our front driveshaft. I'm told that on the factory one you have to take an angle grinder to the backside plate to get to the retaining clip. If that is the case it might be worth replacing them early so if you have to do it on a trail then you won't have to grind the factory one off.

Interesting - don't tend to carry an angle grinder into the desert when I go.... Might be worth replacing it before like you say.

 

[Dokatd]

Interesting - don't tend to carry an angle grinder into the desert when I go.... Might be worth replacing it before like you say.

This has been my recommendation. Replacing the joint is super easy once you change from the factory joint.

A video would certainly help I'm sure, but it's super easy.

• secure truck from rolling
• Remove bolts on differential side joint
• Remove bolts on T-case side joint
This is easier if you have the diff side loose first.
• Remove entire shaft from truck
• Use a grinder with a cut off disc to cut back housing off joint you are replacing. Cut as low on the dome as you can and just break through the housing. Don't plunge the cut off disc deeper than thickness of the steel so you don't cut into the c-clip or shaft splines. You have a lot of play here so don't be scared.
• with the back cover removed use a set of C-clip pliers to remove the C-clip.
• Tap the end of the splined shaft with a large punch and hammer while securing the joint
• the stock joint should come off with a few fairly brisk taps
• Remove the remnants of the stock joints failed boot
• apply light grease to the splines and shaft
• slip new joint and boot onto the shaft
• install the C-clip using proper pliers
• Grease new joint using all the grease that came in the kit. No significant amount of grease should remain in the tube
• Place new joint back cover on with gasket if supplied
• Reinstall shaft in reverse order
• Once shaft is installed adjust boot collar so it has as little stress as possible. You may feel a bulge in the top of the boot at the T-case. Try to make this bulge as small as possible.
• Install boot clamp. It's best to tighten the clamp only enough to retain the clamp and boot. This allows the boot to adjust itself a bit.

Now drive and have fun again. Next time you won't have to cut the backing plate off.

 

[Ex-defender driver]

This has been my recommendation. Replacing the joint is super easy once you change from the factory joint.

A video would certainly help I'm sure, but it's super easy.

• secure truck from rolling
• Remove bolts on differential side joint
• Remove bolts on T-case side joint
This is easier if you have the diff side loose first.
• Remove entire shaft from truck
• Use a grinder with a cut off disc to cut back housing off joint you are replacing. Cut as low on the dome as you can and just break through the housing. Don't plunge the cut off disc deeper than thickness of the steel so you don't cut into the c-clip or shaft splines. You have a lot of play here so don't be scared.
• with the back cover removed use a set of C-clip pliers to remove the C-clip.
• Tap the end of the splined shaft with a large punch and hammer while securing the joint
• the stock joint should come off with a few fairly brisk taps
• Remove the remnants of the stock joints failed boot
• apply light grease to the splines and shaft
• slip new joint and boot onto the shaft
• install the C-clip using proper pliers
• Grease new joint using all the grease that came in the kit. No significant amount of grease should remain in the tube
• Place new joint back cover on with gasket if supplied
• Reinstall shaft in reverse order
• Once shaft is installed adjust boot collar so it has as little stress as possible. You may feel a bulge in the top of the boot at the T-case. Try to make this bulge as small as possible.
• Install boot clamp. It's best to tighten the clamp only enough to retain the clamp and boot. This allows the boot to adjust itself a bit.

Now drive and have fun again. Next time you won't have to cut the backing plate off.

Thank you. That's super helpful. Got to say I love this forum and its knowledgable members. Amazing resource !

 

[TheDocAUS]

This has been my recommendation. Replacing the joint is super easy once you change from the factory joint.

A video would certainly help I'm sure, but it's super easy.

• secure truck from rolling
• Remove bolts on differential side joint
• Remove bolts on T-case side joint
This is easier if you have the diff side loose first.
• Remove entire shaft from truck
• Use a grinder with a cut off disc to cut back housing off joint you are replacing. Cut as low on the dome as you can and just break through the housing. Don't plunge the cut off disc deeper than thickness of the steel so you don't cut into the c-clip or shaft splines. You have a lot of play here so don't be scared.
• with the back cover removed use a set of C-clip pliers to remove the C-clip.
• Tap the end of the splined shaft with a large punch and hammer while securing the joint
• the stock joint should come off with a few fairly brisk taps
• Remove the remnants of the stock joints failed boot
• apply light grease to the splines and shaft
• slip new joint and boot onto the shaft
• install the C-clip using proper pliers
• Grease new joint using all the grease that came in the kit. No significant amount of grease should remain in the tube
• Place new joint back cover on with gasket if supplied
• Reinstall shaft in reverse order
• Once shaft is installed adjust boot collar so it has as little stress as possible. You may feel a bulge in the top of the boot at the T-case. Try to make this bulge as small as possible.
• Install boot clamp. It's best to tighten the clamp only enough to retain the clamp and boot. This allows the boot to adjust itself a bit.

Now drive and have fun again. Next time you won't have to cut the backing plate off.

Thanks, just added to the Resource of links over here. Currently Item 9 in the second part.

 

[Ex-defender driver]

This has been my recommendation. Replacing the joint is super easy once you change from the factory joint.

A video would certainly help I'm sure, but it's super easy.

• secure truck from rolling
• Remove bolts on differential side joint
• Remove bolts on T-case side joint
This is easier if you have the diff side loose first.
• Remove entire shaft from truck
• Use a grinder with a cut off disc to cut back housing off joint you are replacing. Cut as low on the dome as you can and just break through the housing. Don't plunge the cut off disc deeper than thickness of the steel so you don't cut into the c-clip or shaft splines. You have a lot of play here so don't be scared.
• with the back cover removed use a set of C-clip pliers to remove the C-clip.
• Tap the end of the splined shaft with a large punch and hammer while securing the joint
• the stock joint should come off with a few fairly brisk taps
• Remove the remnants of the stock joints failed boot
• apply light grease to the splines and shaft
• slip new joint and boot onto the shaft
• install the C-clip using proper pliers
• Grease new joint using all the grease that came in the kit. No significant amount of grease should remain in the tube
• Place new joint back cover on with gasket if supplied
• Reinstall shaft in reverse order
• Once shaft is installed adjust boot collar so it has as little stress as possible. You may feel a bulge in the top of the boot at the T-case. Try to make this bulge as small as possible.
• Install boot clamp. It's best to tighten the clamp only enough to retain the clamp and boot. This allows the boot to adjust itself a bit.

Now drive and have fun again. Next time you won't have to cut the backing plate off.

Do you think it would be possible to cut the back off with a hacksaw? I mean if you had to do it while remote traveling.

 

[Dokatd]

Do you think it would be possible to cut the back off with a hacksaw? I mean if you had to do it while remote traveling.

Wow, yeah if you had like 45min Here is a pic to show how I cut mine. I could have cut it much higher if desired

 

[mccasksl]

I’m sure it’s been posted but I’m not able to find it. What is the install torque setting for the M8 T45 bolts when installing the CV joint / drive shaft? Loctite blue? Thanks! Steve

Follow-up: Can the bolts be reused or new bolts required when CV joint / driveshaft is reinstalled?

 

[Shroomy]

I’m sure it’s been posted but I’m not able to find it. What is the install torque setting for the M8 T45 bolts when installing the CV joint / drive shaft? Loctite blue? Thanks! Steve

If memory serves correct I think it was 18-20ft lbs at least this is what I did the last time. Defiantly doesn't hurt to re-apply some blue Loctite.

 

[Dokatd]

I’m sure it’s been posted but I’m not able to find it. What is the install torque setting for the M8 T45 bolts when installing the CV joint / drive shaft? Loctite blue? Thanks! Steve

Follow-up: Can the bolts be reused or new bolts required when CV joint / driveshaft is reinstalled?

I highly recommend staying away from any Loctite. You can reuse the old bolts. But I recommend converting over to the new bolts you get with the TerraFlex kit as they use a different tool.

Torque very firmly

 

[Commodore]

My Grenadier is in for a windshield replacement and the software update. They did an general inspection and found that the Rzeppa joint at the transfer case side of the front driveshaft was failing. No lift and only 12,000 miles. The dealership has the driveshaft in stock and is Ineos authorized the warranty repair. The new driveshaft has the same joint that the old one does. Not so sure why they think it will have a different outcome. I asked if I can have the old driveshaft and was told it has to go back to Ineos. Ineos is going to have to come up with a better an actual engineering solution because these shouldn't be considered consumable parts. On the upside the dealer, Rusnak Pasadena, has offered outstanding customer service.

Here is the text I received:

I apologize for the delay. The windshield has been replaced. The update is completed. We found a couple of other things we are addressing under warranty. The propshaft boot on the transfer case end is beginning to separate. We will be replacing that unit. We also found a failed transfer case clip. That is also being replaced. I am still hoping to wrap things up by tomorrow. I will let you know.

 

[MattA]

12000 no lift and shaft failure, that’s nuts!!
What happened to all the testing during the design stage??
Very poor outcome that’s for sure and absolutely pathetic to be frank

 

[ADVAW8S]

12000 no lift and shaft failure, that’s nuts!!
What happened to all the testing during the design stage??
Very poor outcome that’s for sure and absolutely pathetic to be frank

I shared this on another page, but a rumor that yet to be confirmed, Ineos will be supplying and using a much thicker and stronger boot over Rzeppa joint.

To your point @MattA something to think about, there is testing and then there is production. At one point I'm my life, I was interviewing with Reebok to work with their design team around sneakers. My job was to take everything they came up with from design and materials and make changes to maximize profit without deviation from the original look. The point is, maybe the cost cutters said what do you want to spend money on a stiff boot or drain holes? Now if we go with a weaker boot, we can get you the drain holes but we are going to cheapen the transfer case stick. You will probably lose the pin at the worse time but hey, what's life without a little of a gamble.

 

[Commodore]

12000 no lift and shaft failure, that’s nuts!!
What happened to all the testing during the design stage??
Very poor outcome that’s for sure and absolutely pathetic to be frank

To be clear, the shaft hasn't failed yet. I check it often and couldn't see a rip in the boot yet but admittedly I'm not looking at it with a magnifying glass. I'll bet that the tech's have been told to do a close examination of that Rzeppa boot. The text reads, "beginning to separate" so I don't think it was going to fail in the next few hundred miles and would likely give me some warning before it actually broke. Just the same, a better design is needed. Maybe it's better boot materials, maybe it is a better boot design, maybe it is AO 1350 shaft, or the Rzeppa pinion side with the 1310 DC transfer case side. No matter, something has to change and I would prefer it comes directly from Ineos. There is a 50,000 warranty and I got 12 on mine. That means that I'll be on my 4th driveshaft before they get it out of warranty. They will get a change pushed out.

 

[Commodore]

I shared this on another page, but a rumor that yet to be confirmed, Ineos will be supplying and using a much thicker and stronger boot over Rzeppa joint.

To your point @MattA something to think about, there is testing and then there is production. At one point I'm my life, I was interviewing with Reebok to work with their design team around sneakers. My job was to take everything they came up with from design and materials and make changes to maximize profit without deviation from the original look. The point is, maybe the cost cutters said what do you want to spend money on a stiff boot or drain holes? Now if we go with a weaker boot, we can get you the drain holes but we are going to cheapen the transfer case stick. You will probably lose the pin at the worse time but hey, what's life without a little of a gamble.

You are likely one point with this. @Tom D needs to put it on the list of things to talk to Lynn about.

 

[pmatusov]

What happened to all the testing during the design stage??

You can imagine Ineos selecting a parts supplier and ordering a pilot batch of parts for testing. It would not be a stretch to imagine parts supplier hand-assembling and hand-picking the parts before sending them to the customer during the testing/supplier selection stage, and ... relaxing the tolerance a little once the main hurdle is behind.

 

[Commodore]

And let's keep this in perspective. This is fairly minor and should be fixable in the long term. Just think what would have happened if they selected the GM 6.2L as a power plant...

 

[Zimm]

You can imagine Ineos selecting a parts supplier and ordering a pilot batch of parts for testing. It would not be a stretch to imagine parts supplier hand-assembling and hand-picking the parts before sending them to the customer during the testing/supplier selection stage, and ... relaxing the tolerance a little once the main hurdle is behind.

I doubt the boot is made by the CV assembler. What I have found happens on the supply side of it, is the supplier has a price point, they assemble to that price point using the lowest bid for pieces, and the end user tests and accepts it. The key part being, they signed off and they own it. I think it's quite possible none of the test units failed, as its not endemic. What I don't think happened with a CV, is cherry picking samples. That would portend foreknowledge of bad boot material, and what's the point of owning that?