It might be that the torque converter is still applying some torque to the gearbox output when in neutral. (Or the gears are locked when in P)I hear what you are saying but I can't understand why?
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It might be that the torque converter is still applying some torque to the gearbox output when in neutral. (Or the gears are locked when in P)I hear what you are saying but I can't understand why?
Both those 2 seem logical, but more likely the first N option, I usually use P with the engine running.It might be that the torque converter is still applying some torque to the gearbox output when in neutral. (Or the gears are locked when in P)
Well, I had the same experience as @landmannnn , and I don't understand why either.I hear what you are saying but I can't understand why?
Out of curiosity to see if rolling slowly in neutral made it easier to shift into low range I tried it today. What I found was that when I went very slowly in drive and then shifted into neutral to keep rolling slowly while I then attempted to shift the transfer case, the car stopped. In other words, it seems like shifting from drive or reverse to neutral actually stops the car, whether by auto-braking or putting it into a type of park I am not sure. Can anyone who has recommended a very slow roll in neutral to help the transfer gears mesh up when shifting the transfer case clarify how they accomplish this?I have used low box a lot recently, it is definitely easier to get in and out of gear than it was at the start. Whether that is due to the car loosening up or just me getting a feel for it I can’t say. Just like the old defenders it’s easier to get into gear if the car is rolling slightly, so on a hill allowing a slight roll forwards of backwards makes a difference. If you’re on the flat it can be trickier.
Choosing when to engage low box is the key, do it before you need it not once you’re stuck.
Hi Sean, I drive slowly in the D position, then shift to N and when the vehicle is only rolling very slightly and almost stationary, I shift the gear reduction lever. It then easily goes into low without any noise in the gearbox. As I have been doing this more than once a week for more than 2 years, it is completely automatic, even when I am distracted. Hope this helps.Out of curiosity to see if rolling slowly in neutral made it easier to shift into low range I tried it today. What I found was that when I went very slowly in drive and then shifted into neutral to keep rolling slowly while I then attempted to shift the transfer case, the car stopped. In other words, it seems like shifting from drive or reverse to neutral actually stops the car, whether by auto-braking or putting it into a type of park I am not sure. Can anyone who has recommended a very slow roll in neutral to help the transfer gears mesh up when shifting the transfer case clarify how they accomplish this?
Thanks,
Sean
haha indeed... https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/diff-locks-in-high-lock.12418634/Unfortunately today I entirely failed to be able to get mine into low range. I have had in low range with centre diff unlocked before and it went in quite easily but today I could lock the centre diff but no low range. This is potentially a big problem, I was on a track with some pretty knarly bits and there was some risk that I could get stuck, unfortunately that also means that there are no front and rear diff lockers available to you either because INEOS in their wisdom have made it a condition of use to be in low range. Fortunately the car is impressive enough that it managed even some quite knarly bits in high range with centre diff locked. I also had shovel, Maxtrax and winch and recovery gear if it came to that. But a bit bummed about this, tried all the tricks mentioned in this thread but nothing worked so I guess it’s off to the Agent to look at it.![]()