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What type of fuse is used in the INEOS?

Those new images seem to show 2 new fuses boxes not in the INEOS Diagrams or the prototype vehicles. Any idea what they are fusing?
The inline fuse box? Detailed in post #35 above, possibly a Mega SN?
One image suggests new relays, as the existing fuses boxes do not appear to have any spare relays.
More work required... 🔦🔍
 
It's inline directly off the auxiliary battery, must be well in excess of 100A, as the fuse box it feeds has a 350A fused output.
 
It's inline directly off the auxiliary battery, must be well in excess of 100A, as the fuse box it feeds has a 350A fused output.
Hi DCPU, You seem to be very knowledgable on electronics and batteries. I am thinking of ordering the Field Master with the Premium Sound System, which will have the subwoofer where you could have put the second battery. Then I plan on moving the subwoofer to the rear boot in a custom secured box by simply lengthening the wiring
to the subwoofer. I then plan on adding a second battery. My question is.... How easy is it to add a second battery after the fact? What type of battery would you recommend and do I need to get a C-Tech controller for the 2 battery set up. I am not planning on running solar. My main concern is if there is any software missing or needed or flashing needed when you add a second battery with controller or is it just simply getting the second battery and making the proper wiring connections between the two batteries and C-Tech controller. Respectfully, DaBull
 
I'd throw that question open to the forum as a whole; I would in no way describe myself as qualified to give you any definitive answers. I actually doubt anyone can at the moment. Exactly how the UK setup works in full is still a bit of a mystery; and there's no way of knowing if a US market spec vehicle will be different again.
 
It's inline directly off the auxiliary battery, must be well in excess of 100A, as the fuse box it feeds has a 350A fused output.
Looking at the photo below, it looks as though with the aux battery fitted, the positive power cable now comes from the Output on the SMARTPASS 120S and goes through the new inline fuse holder and onto the positive terminal of the aux battery. If that is correct it should mean there is a MEGA fuse in the inline fuse holder of at least 300 amps.

That would make 5 types of fuses used, the last being a MEGA fuse in midi form.

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Image courtesy of @Logsplitter
 

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Looking at the photo below, it looks as though with the aux battery fitted, the positive power cable now comes from the Output on the SMARTPASS 120S and goes through the new inline fuse holder and onto the positive terminal of the aux battery.
There are now two different versions of the wiring with the auxiliary battery...

If that is correct it should mean there is a MEGA fuse in the inline fuse holder of at least 300 amps.
That doesn't make any sense if there's a 350A fuse in that Littel fuse box.
 
There are now two different versions of the wiring with the auxiliary battery...


That doesn't make any sense if there's a 350A fuse in that Littel fuse box.
There is a 300 and 350 amp fuse in the second busbar, which they appear to have used in earlier prototypes. Only time will tell if they can come wired in different ways for the aux battery.
 
Hi DCPU, You seem to be very knowledgable on electronics and batteries. I am thinking of ordering the Field Master with the Premium Sound System, which will have the subwoofer where you could have put the second battery. Then I plan on moving the subwoofer to the rear boot in a custom secured box by simply lengthening the wiring
to the subwoofer. I then plan on adding a second battery. My question is.... How easy is it to add a second battery after the fact? What type of battery would you recommend and do I need to get a C-Tech controller for the 2 battery set up. I am not planning on running solar. My main concern is if there is any software missing or needed or flashing needed when you add a second battery with controller or is it just simply getting the second battery and making the proper wiring connections between the two batteries and C-Tech controller. Respectfully, DaBull
Very easy is the simple answer. Path of least resistance in this scenario is to utilise a portable auxiliary battery. Heaps of options and most come with charge controllers and inverters onboard. Example below:

 
There is a 300 and 350 amp fuse in the second busbar, which they appear to have used in earlier prototypes.
I know I've checked in mine, hence comment about inline fuse rating.

Only time will tell if they can come wired in different ways for the aux battery.
Time has told ~ we have two vehicles with the auxiliary battery wiring different. The photos are up in the forum for all to see...
 
Fuse update
I looked at a Red Fieldmaster Prototype today, without an auxiliary battery fitted.

We removed the top of the FHZ Series 5 busbar and I can confirm each stud is fused. You can see a small cube below each nut and stud, that is the fuse. I could read the rating of 3 of the 5 fuses, they were 80 amps, 300 amp and 350 amps. Inside the busbar looks like this (I accidentally knocked out of place the green rubber grommet when taking off the cap):

View attachment 7810263

You can see better the fuses in this image from the Littelfuse website.

View attachment 7810262
Here is the busbar holder with no fuses. You can clearly see the busbar.
View attachment 7810269
They are not midi fuses, so they must be the MEGA range ZCASE® fuses (80 A to 600 A).

I can confirm there are three main fuses used in the IEOS Grenadier.

Blade fuses
The main blade fuse used is a Mini fuse, not a low-profile Mini fuse or a Micro2 fuse.

Mini fuses are 10.9mm across, 16.3mm high and the blade width is 2.8mm.

The fuse box diagrams tell what amp rating is required.

MCases fuses
Two of the fuse boxes also use female Low Profile MCase unslotted fuse. The fuse box diagrams tell what amp rating is required.

These are made by Littelfuse and remind me of a miniature Otto bin or Wheelie garage bin.

MEGA range ZCASE® fuses
The FHZ Series 5 busbar can either use a midi fuse or the MEGA range ZCASE® fuses. The images above show the 5 stud busbar (and probably the 7 stud one which I could not open) uses MEGA range ZCASE® fuses.

These will be must have fuses, because they are used to fuse the CTEK 120S and if that fuse blows, the aux battery is taken out of action. This is where all the high amp devices are fused, from 80 amps to 350 amps (both the 5 stud and the 7 stud busbars are rated up to 400 amps).

Fuse puller needed
It is really hard to remove the small blade fuses and the Low Profile MCase Fuses with your fingers. You will need a fuse puller, long nose pliers or something similar.

Save yourself the frustration and put something into your toolkit.
Do you know what stud size is used in the 7 stud busbar fuse case? Is it M6, M7 or M8?
 
The busbars (5 or 7) are configurable using either M6, M8, or M10 bolts. I believe they are M8 bolts in the IG, but we need an owner to confirm. EDIT: the spare busbar I bought has M8 bolts fitted. Look here.

If they are M8 bolts the recommended mounting torque settings used for the Z Case fuses is: M8: 14Nm±2Nm
 
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And this is the Littel fuse box wired into the auxiliary battery. The writing is mine - I had to read the fuse values with a small mirror and torch (who designed them like this!), and Ineos, who designed the seat trim such that getting to fuses requires removing trim screws and bending panels at strange angles...:
View attachment 7812574
I have been struggling to work out where/how to wire in my ARB fridge wiring loom and earlier today when looking under the panels I was wondering how to repurpose the 5th unused slot on this busbar. However, another idea springs to mind - would it be OK to simply attach the ARB wiring loomdirectly to this existing 80A fuse? The ARB wiring loom already has it's own built in 15A fuse.
Note that I've read through other threads that suggest connecting the ARB to one of the fuse boxes, but the fuse boxes under the rear seats are not accessible without first removing the entire metal seat frame structure, which I'm hesitant to do if I don't need to.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I have been struggling to work out where/how to wire in my ARB fridge wiring loom and earlier today when looking under the panels I was wondering how to repurpose the 5th unused slot on this busbar. However, another idea springs to mind - would it be OK to simply attach the ARB wiring loomdirectly to this existing 80A fuse? The ARB wiring loom already has it's own built in 15A fuse.
Note that I've read through other threads that suggest connecting the ARB to one of the fuse boxes, but the fuse boxes under the rear seats are not accessible without first removing the entire metal seat frame structure, which I'm hesitant to do if I don't need to.

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
I’m not an expert but I wouldn’t want to be attaching a cable to an 80 amp fuse with a cable not capable of carrying 80 amps. The cable may melt before a fuse blows if there was ever a problem.
The 5th spare fuse slot I used to power a small blue sea fuse board and from there I attached further loads inc my ARB fridge. I have the 2 seat utility so the battery compartment is easily accessible
 
I’m not an expert but I wouldn’t want to be attaching a cable to an 80 amp fuse with a cable not capable of carrying 80 amps. The cable may melt before a fuse blows if there was ever a problem.
The 5th spare fuse slot I used to power a small blue sea fuse board and from there I attached further loads inc my ARB fridge. I have the 2 seat utility so the battery compartment is easily accessible
Thanks for your reply. Would you be able to send me a photo of your setup? What guage cable did you use to connect the blue sea fuse board to the 5th fuse spare, and did you simply connect it with an M8 bolt to the busbar, or something else?
During earlier hunting I found the Agile Offroad instructions for fitting an ARB air compressor. In it, they direct you to connect the wiring loom power to the 1st slot (shunt), see photo below. Makes me nervous, as your concern regarding a suitably strong cable vs melting strikes a chord with me, despite the fairly chunky wiring of the ARB fridge loom cable.
 

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My ARB twin under seat compressor came with 2 x inline 40amp maxi fuses. So this got connected directly to the main battery.
For my extra fuse box I used 16mm cable. Sorry I used the spare 60amp fuse as indicated in photo not an 80 amp fuse.
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