The Grenadier Forum

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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

I would also politely suggest that during the current fuel situation you don't do your usual trick of going for a new fill up record 😉
That's the best I did until today in Morocco, only 78,50 liters:
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The country is magnificent
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And if the military tell you that it is forbidden to go through, you ask politely permission, and you can get it: I was not the only one, later on I met two Italian bikers who got through too :cool:
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Seriously considering this setup. Not sure if I'll do both modules or just the fridge slide. The right side module looks nice but I wonder how much value it brings if I'm not running a roof conversion. A few questions for you:

- Do you feel the fridge is too high, and if not, will you be using a step?
- Will you still be able to access the baskets on the side of the fridge?
- How is the storage compared to what you had previously? It looks like a lot of small storage spaces compared to one larger space.

Love me some GP Factor so no doubt the quality is top notch.
Fridge is high. Previous setup was a tilt and perfect. I have a hitch step that will be perfect for this.

Baskets are accessible,

Believe it or not, the storage is better than before. Using vertical gives me more on right side, those compartments hold a lot of recovery gear along with my sub.

A very awesome setup!
 
Since getting the Grenadier a little over a month ago I have been hard at work adding a bunch of accessories. This weekend I completed the biggest one in doing the GP Factor winch. It was quite a process but overall went well. Probably a 12 hour total job. I then set to work on adding a 314ah Wattcycle lithium battery, a Redarc Alpha 50 and still working on adding a 130 watt solar panel on the leitner roof rack. That should get me some good power to run a fridge and starlink mini and some scene lights for camping etc. Its a fun process but I have had a few setbacks, but overall happy with the mods.

Other mods done are :
Baja Designs Agile light Kit
Owl bull Bar
Metalcloak Diff protectors
Midland MCXT575 GRMS
CA Tuned ARB onboard air compressor
GOP Factor rear table and cutting board

Ready for my first major trip to MOab end of month for the Grenadier Gathering. Can't wait.:)
Bravo Mark! Love watching your progress!
 
Installed the BuzzOverland brackets and Rigid Reverse / Work Light upgrade, wired via the INT 1 switch. Makes a massive difference when reversing at night (after adjusting the beam). And will be a significant help when working late. Really nice quality and easy to fit.View attachment 7925617
that’s my project for this weekend. how did you wire the other side? INT 1 or INT 2?
 
Updated my GRMS setup last weekend.
I picked up the Agile OR dash plate - This worked really well, super easy install and I still have room to add smaller stuff if I ever have the need for it. Used another add-a-fuse for power and it turned out to be a really clean setup!

For the radio controller mount, I got the idea from this GME instagram post. Didn't really feel like dropping another $200 for the AOR handle, but reading their install procedure found that it takes an M6 bolt. Quick search and found this RAM ball mount for a whopping $4! I'll be on the lookout for a rubber gasket/plug to cover up the hole more, but doesn't look too bad as is in my opinion.
I was concerned that the radio would put too much rotational force on the ball mount and turn it, but a little red thread locker and the arm is extremely stout.

This opened up a spot for a passenger phone mount / charger. Figured on a big adventure I can throw an iPad mount for navigation.
Drilling big holes wan't exactly fun, but I really like how it turned out!

Agile OR Behind Dash Mount Plate
1" Ball Arm - 3.7" long
1'' Ball Mount with M6 x 1.0mm Threaded Post
RJ45 Extender
Phone Ball Mount (The base screw can be removed and replaced with an M4 bolt)
 

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My left rear tire loses air occasionally. Haven't had the time to get it sorted. But it doesn't matter much since I have an onboard ARB air pump which works wonderfully, even as it did today. What's troubling me is that the "Temperature" display in the Off Road menu is reversing my left and rear tires while the alternative pressure display in the warning notice gets it right -- see image below. This has been happening at least since my time in the cold weather in northern Ontario in the first half of February. So here's a shout out: Has anyone else had this happen and/or does anyone have a clue how this is even possible? (It feels like a software error but if it's only happening on my truck, that doesn't make sense to me.)

Screenshot from 2026-04-16 12-11-59.png
 
My left rear tire loses air occasionally. Haven't had the time to get it sorted. But it doesn't matter much since I have an onboard ARB air pump which works wonderfully, even as it did today. What's troubling me is that the "Temperature" display in the Off Road menu is reversing my left and rear tires while the alternative pressure display in the warning notice gets it right -- see image below. This has been happening at least since my time in the cold weather in northern Ontario in the first half of February. So here's a shout out: Has anyone else had this happen and/or does anyone have a clue how this is even possible? (It feels like a software error but if it's only happening on my truck, that doesn't make sense to me.)

View attachment 7926184
Yes, that has happened to me. Rear right tyre losing pressure, after stopping and restarting indicated it was the rear left. However after parking overnight rear right went flat.
 
. . .
I've gone with class 12.9 industrial socket head cap screws because the factory torx screws have been known to break during removal which I think might be related to the red thread locker used at the factory.
. . .
Data in the table below are from ISO 898-1.

PropertyClass 10.9Class 12.9
0.2% proof stress940 MPa1100 MPa
Elongation at fracture9%8%
Reduction of area after fracture48%44%
Hardness (HRC)32 - 3939 - 44

The Class 10.9 bolt is a little more ductile as evidenced by the larger reduction in area and larger elongation at fracture. Both of these indicate a larger region of plastic deformation before failure. For the shock loads imposed by drivetrain, I'd want the more ductile Class 10.9 fastener.

The other issue with using a Class 12.9 fastener is associated with hydrogen embrittlement (HE). HE is generally not a factor below HRC 39, so the Class 12.9 fastener has a higher risk for HE while the Class 10.9 has almost no risk. It is true the manufacturing process for Class 12.9 takes HE into account and the operating environment is not likely to contribute hydrogen, but there is some risk due to material and process variability. (This is why almost all Class 12.9 fasteners aren't plated - the plating process can reintroduce hydrogen.)

Ineos says these bolts should be tightened to 25 Nm + 40° advance. For a Class 10.9 M8 x 1.00 mm* bolt and a 48 mm joint length, this comes out to 95% of the yield strength of the bolt. Yield occurs at 43°, so I wouldn't overshoot the 40° spec. The total clamping force is about 35.2 kN, and the properties of the forged output flange thread (material, depth, fit, etc.) were likely designed with this force in mind. That's the long way of saying if you tried to tighten a Class 12.9 to 95% of its yield strength (force ~ 41 kN), you might risk stripping the flange threads.

Aftermarket availability for a specific fastener may shape your procurement, but I'll be looking for a Class 10.9 fastener, even going to a an external hex head if necessary. If Ineos used a thread locker that requires heat to remove . . . that's dumb and can be rectified on the first removal. Their choice of thread locker shouldn't be your only motive to use a Class 12.9 bolt.

* I can't see the threads on my Rzeppa joints, but if they're not 1.00 mm (vice 1.25 mm), I'm going to be really disappointed since the larger thread pitch would mean their tightening procedure attempts to drive the bolt to 115% of yield, which is pointless.
 
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