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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

Nice install - much easier than what I did, putting the voltage booster under the seat. I found a voltage booster makes all the difference with these things.
I delayed my dish install when I went to Melbourne, which turned out to be a big bonus. In that 2 weeks STS put out their voltage upconverter that fitted the STS bracket making everything easy to do.
 
Oi. Been busy and away from the forum a bit.
But today - no work, no coaching, it’s a gorgeous day and I finally did a few tidbits.
New Owl hood/bonnet release
New Owl rear door release
Grenadierworks stop/start fix with club medallion
Phone holder v1 beta
You can also see a GW rear door grab handle. Did that quite awhile ago - it’s a must have IMO. The bottle opener sucks though.
 

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so Yesterday when I started up the Grenny I had the telltale Service Overdue reminder BUT I also got the Service due in 621 miles message. Kind of funny I am getting BOTH but also very annoying...Now I have 2 stupid messages blocking my mileage and driven miles...
 
Also, I just picked up my Gren from a 10-day stay at the dealer. I took it in for the 2-year service, plus:
  • 3/2 driveline clunk
  • T-case fluid change
  • New door seals
  • Replace hi/lo coolant reservoirs
  • Service overdue reset
  • ADAS update
  • Door button/lock replacement

They found the F&R t-case output seals slightly leaking and replaced them along with no-charge t-case fluid change. They didn’t find anything with the 3/2 downshift clunk, but said it’s better. I have 3-hours drive time on it and I’ll pay closer attention, but it’s still there, softer?
 
Finally finished my ditch, auxiliary backup & rock lighting today. Ditch & backup will double as chase lights with the addition of yellow lenses on the Diode Dynamics SSC2’s. Rock lights are Diode Dynamics Stage series, currently have the red lenses on them (to match the red frame) but not sure about them so may swap them back to the amber or more likely the clear lenses.
 

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I built a tire rack for the cargo area for mine this weekend. I race cars, and my most common awkward cargo hauling scenario is taking a set of mounted wheels/tires and fresh tires to the shop to be mounted, so I wanted to make something specifically to handle it in our new Grenadier. The width of the cargo area floor won't allow two stacks due to the floor not being flat, so holding them vertical up above the wheel wells worked the best.

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A mounted set of four from any car I would have should fit there, and two pairs of fresh tires stacked on the middle row seats folded forward. I also left enough room underneath for two bare rims if needed. It mounts to threaded anchors in the cargo-rail (not shown in the pic), so I can easily throw it in when needed.

I also found this collapsible stacking crate: https://www.northerntool.com/products/x-space-stackable-folding-crate-23-1-2in-w-x-7-1-16in-h-84317, that is the exact height we need to match the 2nd row seats when folded. Makes for a handy way to support loads fully flat when needed without going to a full drawer system.

I also finally got my steering wheel fully centered. It was off from the factory by a bit, as I've seen others mention. Took a number of tweaks to get it just right but we're good now. Loving this rig.
 
Finally finished my ditch, auxiliary backup & rock lighting today. Ditch & backup will double as chase lights with the addition of yellow lenses on the Diode Dynamics SSC2’s. Rock lights are Diode Dynamics Stage series, currently have the red lenses on them (to match the red frame) but not sure about them so may swap them back to the amber or more likely the clear lenses.
Can you comment on the increased rear visibility using those chase lights to back up? Are they too low to gain much visibility? I have zero use for them as chase lights, but welcome better reverse lighting.
 
Nice install - much easier than what I did, putting the voltage booster under the seat. I found a voltage booster makes all the difference with these things.
I agree a voltage booster is usefull, especially if you want to use the supplied long feeding cable to place your antenna far away from the 12V source of you car.

What happens is that the length of the cable provokes a significant voltage drop.

For those who don't want the voltage booster, make a shorter feeding cable. The voltage drop will be much smaller. In my case it works without booster.
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I bought also a suction nap system to mount the Starlink mini inside the car on my Safari windows, but I didn't test it yet
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And I am still in the middle of the Moroccan desert 🏜
 
Can you comment on the increased rear visibility using those chase lights to back up? Are they too low to gain much visibility? I have zero use for them as chase lights, but welcome better reverse lighting.
Pics 3124 & 3125 are the stock backup (and brake) lights only.
Pics 3120 & 3121 are the new lights with no colored lenses.
Pics 3126 & 3127 are the same lights with the amber lenses on.

I have them angled so they light up about 15-20ft behind the truck. They make a huge difference.

Lights are diode Dynamics C2 2.0 SAE/DOT White Sport LED Pod (pair), SAE Fog/Wide pattern. I used the same lights with flood pattern as the ditch lights.
 

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Being such a smart bloke I managed to leave the PWR switch on for the past 5 days after we got home from a trip and flattened my main battery 🤦‍♂️

I remember flicking that switch on to keep my fridge alive until I got it unloaded on the day we got home. Seems that I forgot to turn it off again afterwards. With the exception of one short trip my vehicle has been sitting for 5 days with the Wolfbox mirror, a UHF radio, a Cel-Fi R32 cellular booster and a Zetifi powered smart antenna powered up.
Fast forward to today I got in it and it cranked slowly. It still started without issue (diesel). After start I had the red battery alarm in the telltale panel and a battery volts low message on the infotainment screen. On the Offroad > Electrical screen the battery SOC was 4% and the charging rate was 118 Amps! I then drove 20 minutes to an appointment. In that time the charge rate varied between roughly 40 amps and 100+ amps. The only noticeable anomaly was the HVAC fan was cutting in and out despite it being on setting 2 (a 30 degree C day here). By the time I reached my destination the battery SOC was up to 48%. I checked I had my lithium starter onboard as a precaution then turned off the vehicle. 30 minutes later when I returned the vehicle started normally with no indications of a flat battery.
20 minutes later I was home with an SOC of 100%. I'll do a cold battery load and capacity test tomorrow to check the battery status.

I have the Auxiliary battery option. Clearly the Smartpass has functioned as advertised to boost the flat main battery for the initial start. The ECU then ramped up the alternator to recharge the battery at best rate. Even at idle it was still pumping in over 40 amps. I went from 4% SOC to 100% SOC within 45 minutes of engine operation.

My point? This is exactly how the factory auxiliary battery system is supposed to operate. I didn't plan on doing a live test of a flat main battery but I can tick that off now. If I had a bunch of extra consumers hanging off that auxiliary battery there is a good chance it would not have had sufficient remaining charge to boost the main battery and give me an engine start.
I know the factory setup is unconventional and some owners have ripped it out in favour of a conventional starter and house battery configuration. My dumbass experience today is the scenario that Ineos designed the main and auxiliary battery setup for. And it worked. Of course a lithium starter would also be a backup to a flat starter battery, but there is that note in the owner's manuals about not using a quick charger - whatever that is 🤷‍♂️
 
So @Clark Kent , airbag error?
And 100% SOC. Never had more than 94% meself. Usually struggle to keep it around mid 80s. Even before flattening the starter battery one day.
 
So @Clark Kent , airbag error?
And 100% SOC. Never had more than 94% meself. Usually struggle to keep it around mid 80s. Even before flattening the starter battery one day.
No other errors. And it's the first time I've seen 100% SOC hence I'll do a battery capacity test tomorrow. If it tests ok I'll put it on a maintenance charge for the rest of the day.

My Bluetooth battery monitor shows the lowest voltage was 11.06v. That's low enough to show a <10% SOC but probably still sufficient power to keep a sleeping vehicle alive hence no airbag error.
 
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