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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

Bobby Mac

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I got sick of drips running down the inside of the rear doors, and falling inside when the rear doors were opened after rain.
I got a piece of ‘P’ section rubber and mounted it across the rear door opening (with Gorilla Glue), ‘P’ section facing up, and retaining the existing door seal.
After a test with the hose, it does appear to do the trick by not allowing the water to accumulate between the top edge of the door and the door seal. This means when the door is opened, there is no water to dribble down the inside of it.
I know it won’t solve extreme weather event intrusion, but should help a lot in the majority of situations. A simple fix that should have been done with a small gutter in that spot from the the start.
 

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TheDocAUS

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I got sick of drips running down the inside of the rear doors, and falling inside when the rear doors were opened after rain.
I got a piece of ‘P’ section rubber and mounted it across the rear door opening (with Gorilla Glue), ‘P’ section facing up, and retaining the existing door seal.
After a test with the hose, it does appear to do the trick by not allowing the water to accumulate between the top edge of the door and the door seal. This means when the door is opened, there is no water to dribble down the inside of it.
I know it won’t solve extreme weather event intrusion, but should help a lot in the majority of situations. A simple fix that should have been done with a small gutter in that spot from the the start.
Do you know if the water is mainly coming from the roof rack, the roof or a combination? I noticed it on the windscreen but not at the back, I will now look at the back as well.

My car visited my mechanic today. There was 3 mechanics and 2 visitors just taking a look.
 

Bobby Mac

Grenadier Owner
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Do you know if the water is mainly coming from the roof rack, the roof or a combination? I noticed it on the windscreen but not at the back, I will now look at the back as well.

My car visited my mechanic today. There was 3 mechanics and 2 visitors just taking a look.
It’s just the dribbles from the roof - you can’t see it in this photo because of my mod, but the water drops onto the top of door and accumulates against the door seal where I have marked it in blue. When you open the door it runs down the inside of the door. With my mod, any drips fall down the outside of the door.
 

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AngusMacG

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OverlandGearGuy

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My only question is placement of the recovery boards on the passenger side. Why not put them on the drivers side where it wouldn’t impede the drivers visibility.


I keep those Windows are covered all the time anyway, I never look out them, and even if the Boards were not on there, the MOLLE Panel would block most of the window anyway
 

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BenTN

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Got my Steps put on the "L" Track AKA Utility Belt today and got all the "L" Track installed so Excited.

THX Warner Ineos

@OverlandGearGuy - How confidence-inspiring are the side steps when attached to the L-track? The lower (short) track sections on the doors seem to be in a rather flexible part of the door skin (possibly because there is a window track behind there). The product pics I've seen on ebay etc. seem to always show these side steps attached to the door hinges instead of the L-track. Made me wonder if the door skin flexes when you use the steps.
 

OverlandGearGuy

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@OverlandGearGuy - How confidence-inspiring are the side steps when attached to the L-track? The lower (short) track sections on the doors seem to be in a rather flexible part of the door skin (possibly because there is a window track behind there). The product pics I've seen on ebay etc. seem to always show these side steps attached to the door hinges instead of the L-track. Made me wonder if the door skin flexes when you use the steps.

So the main reason I went to the "L" Track and not the Door Hinge's is the washer's provided were not correct and the bolts were Silver, and the door Hinge bolts are Painted to match the vehicle, so I would not have liked that, if they would have been Black Bolts and the correct washers I would have went to the Hinge, they seem very secure where they are now, I had two people climb on up them, and not flex or bowing.

And for as often as I will use them, this is a good location for me.
 

BenTN

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So the main reason I went to the "L" Track and not the Door Hinge's is the washer's provided were not correct and the bolts were Silver, and the door Hinge bolts are Painted to match the vehicle, so I would not have liked that, if they would have been Black Bolts and the correct washers I would have went to the Hinge, they seem very secure where they are now, I had two people climb on up them, and not flex or bowing.

And for as often as I will use them, this is a good location for me.
Good to hear. I hope to mount some steps just as you have done, but was concerned about stiffness. These fold-down steps are literally the only legitimate use I can think of for the L-track on the doors. Putting the steps on the L-track instead of the hinge moves them rearward a bit, which (hopefully) keeps the front door from swinging into a deployed step if the rear door is left fully open. This has happened in my Jeep with hinge-mounted steps.
 

AngusMacG

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Took a nice drive along the Mohawk Trail in Central/Western MA
 

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TheDocAUS

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I installed two UHF aerials and routed the aerial cables into the passenger’s footwell (thanks to the Canny Outdoors video).

TWO RFI UHF AERIALS (RHD vehicle)
One aerial was on the driver’s side, the other on the passenger’s side. I routed the driver’s side cable (inside 7mm split tubing) through the headlight surround. I found it best to feed the cable through the top gap of three gaps on the headlight surround. I fed the cable across to the passenger side, I managed to cable tie the split tubing onto other wiring running across the grill area (I made need to do more work on this). Now the driver’s side aerial cable is with the passenger’s side cable. I then fed both aerial cables into the engine bay (see Canny video). Up to this point both aerial cables were in their own thin split tubing (7mm split tubing). Once in the engine bay I fed both aerial cables into thicker 10.7mm split tubing. I fed the thicker split tubing down the engine bay into the passenger’s footwell (see Canny video).

I then used waterproof loom tape and zip ties to secure the cabling at various places from both aerial brackets into the engine bay. For internal use I just use the fleece tape (not waterproof).

Tip: try to protect the end of the aerial cable that plugs into the UHF during installation and routing. It can be easily damaged. Often, I used the waterproof loom tape to protect the end when feeding or attaching it to another cable to help feeding.

FOOTWELL POWER
Footwell power wire ends were terminated with Deutsch DT plugs (the circuit is rated at 10 amps so I did not need DTP plugs). I then attached a power splitter so I could plug in both UHF head units over the weekend. Power cables on the UHF head units were fitted with Deutsch DT plugs.

TESTING
All headsets, head units, power splitter and aerial cables were tested before installation. The multimeter comes in handy. It helped to identify a problem with a mate's UHF power cable I was testing at the same time as my equipment.

RESTYLED NUMBERPLATE
The restyled number plate arrived - the Australian flag like my old car. Now installed. The numberplate attachment is very flimsy in Australia. Problem fixed with Marine Goop and 3M double sided tape.

MGH Gren.jpg

The following image shows where the cable was run from the driver's side aerial (left of screen) across to the passenger's side. The cable goes from the aerial on the left into the headlight surround down to where you see the green line. On the right side is where the other aerial cable was routed, marked by the green arrow When I had both cables in place behind the headlight surround I fed them up into the engine bay. I screwed the headlight surround back in place after I was happy with the cable routing.

MGH Gren Markup.jpg

AERIALS FITTED
The aerial on the left of screen is the RFI CD63 Black 6.5dbi removable aerial. It is very thin, so the driver’s vision is barely impacted. The twists you see 1/2 down the whip is there to absorb vibrations/corrugations. When traveling across corrugations I call it the hula girl. :) This aerial is fitted to a GME TX3520S.

The aerial on right of screen is the RFI CD961-71-75. It has interchangeable antenna whips which operate at 6.5dBi and 3dbi. The 3dbi whip is tiny at about 10cm long. The larger 6.5dBi antenna is fitted in the picture. This aerial is fitted to a GME XRS390C. I have a GME XRS-BT1 hands free kit to install on the GMEXRS390.

The handsets are mounted on the passenger's side of the centre console, using the Brodit bracket.
 
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