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Unacceptable build quality issues on delivery?

Trialmaster

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It is costing them a lot of money to rework things after they come off the line so I am going to assume they are regularly improving things.
They aren't running 24/7 so changes can be made without interrupting the line.
So far over the last 30 tears I have never pulled trim and fixtures off looking for things that are wrong, so I might take the same approach this time also.
I would agree - we should expect production improvements and problems eliminated as the assembly knowledge improves.
 
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DCPU

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When did vehicle manufacturers stop fitting them as standard?
 
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Cheshire cat

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Just removing the trim panels around the rear seats to see how the batteries are supposed to be taken out and there's a couple of poor earthing connections to highlight (one may have been referred previously?):
View attachment 7818493
This is in the rear passenger footwell on the offside (RHD) - pulled so tight it's actually bent the heatshrink:
View attachment 7818496
* and yes - that's another roll pin about to fall out of the drainage plug!

And another installation issue in the same area - the trim panel on the very edge of the door - the front locating pin/dowel has been well and truly Fubared:
View attachment 7818497

Designers give you wiggle room on the rear pin, so get the front one aligned first, or if you don't really care...
View attachment 7818498
Yet again, you are looking at a couple of things I have recently thought I need to familiarise myself with. I was wondering if I disconnected the battery and left it disconnected overnight. Might it address some of the false alarms I get on the screen. To do so would follow the normal IT fault finding routine of 'Shut down and restart'. Any thoughts?
 
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DCPU

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Yet again, you are looking at a couple of things I have recently thought I need to familiarise myself with. I was wondering if I disconnected the battery and left it disconnected overnight. Might it address some of the false alarms I get on the screen. To do so would follow the normal IT fault finding routine of 'Shut down and restart'. Any thoughts?
I don't think it would, but that's a pure guess based on a little Internet reading and a new pet theory that it's "babbling idiot" theory:
Post in thread 'Who is experiencing software or electrical gremlins?' https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...-electrical-gremlins.12411996/post-1333181091

When someone shoots in down in flames, I'll move on to the next one...

Just be careful if you disconnect and maybe be aware that some of these things may be a consideration:

Post in thread 'Battery %' https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/battery.12412564/post-1333194097

I'm happy with my experience of going the other way ~ leaving it permanently on a CTEK charger and having it run in an almost 100% SoC.
 
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So these are all pre-PDI photos, indeed the vehicle had only been unloaded from the transporter earlier that day.

Rear floor trim fit ~ looks perfect:
View attachment 7809890

Vertical Towing interface ~ looks fine:
View attachment 7809893

Rear towing eye ~ wax overspray but absolutely fine:
View attachment 7809895

Towing type approval sticker ~ some damage to lower right edge:
View attachment 7809897

Water run/droplets down inner face of large rear door, hopefully just from when being open in the rain but wasn't raining when I viewed:
View attachment 7809899

Back sides of rear seats, marked and one small scratch:
View attachment 7809901View attachment 7809902

Rear power outlet ~ damaged sticker:
View attachment 7809905

Interior utility belt ~ not sure if these are waxed paper washers or glue, several similar:
View attachment 7809907

Headlining trim ~ small runout on join:
View attachment 7809909
Looks like a 75k vehicle to me lolz
 

Unimog 406

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I posted this on the wrong area earlier this evening only realising when I found this thread. It'd a tad disheartening I haven't looked at any of the mechanical so far. I need to look under the bonnet and check the mechanicals for sure.

For my two penny worth
Picked up my Diesel last week, plagued with electrical issues, display remains on when ignition is switched off, as do the lights and radio on occasion, remedy lock the vehicle and in 5 - 10 minutes the ECU's power down and they shut off. Programming screen has been painful as has been suffering from screen lag and nothing works or sets the memory. Radio doesn't like saving pre-set stations. Fuel gauge was showing full on pick up, which was pleasantly surprised, it didn't last long, drove 100 miles it still displayed full???? stopped to top up tank to double check the reading, it took 34 litres/ 7.5 gallons needless to say it's still full.

The drivers door requires a very hard slam to close against the rubber seal the other three doors are fine as are the rear doors, the explanation given the rubber being stiffer on that door. Being "stiffer" it will improve with use, that didn't ring true being ex motor trade from 30 years back. This was on pick up day, as there were three other Gren's on site all three had the same issue with the drivers door. Not to worrying in itself if it's adjustable. What concerns me all "Three" with the wrong adjustment at the same agent on the same time they couldn't have been consecutive vehicles of the production line??? Different colours also.

To day, I had a closer look at the gutters as I have been researching roof racks and I'm not 100% with the Rhino offering until I have some confirmation with the gutter fitment. Observations by others and on my vehicle they can be flexed by hand as they are 40mm, 1 1/2" wide, so any design I spend my hard earned money on will need to be supported inboard close to the body/roof join and the clamp design will need to grip on that area not on the outer edge of the gutter as I have seen on some offerings. Now to the point of my discourse , both of my gutters are as straight as 30 year old railway tracks. I will attempt to upload pictures.

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Cheshire cat

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I posted this on the wrong area earlier this evening only realising when I found this thread. It'd a tad disheartening I haven't looked at any of the mechanical so far. I need to look under the bonnet and check the mechanicals for sure.

For my two penny worth
Picked up my Diesel last week, plagued with electrical issues, display remains on when ignition is switched off, as do the lights and radio on occasion, remedy lock the vehicle and in 5 - 10 minutes the ECU's power down and they shut off. Programming screen has been painful as has been suffering from screen lag and nothing works or sets the memory. Radio doesn't like saving pre-set stations. Fuel gauge was showing full on pick up, which was pleasantly surprised, it didn't last long, drove 100 miles it still displayed full???? stopped to top up tank to double check the reading, it took 34 litres/ 7.5 gallons needless to say it's still full.

The drivers door requires a very hard slam to close against the rubber seal the other three doors are fine as are the rear doors, the explanation given the rubber being stiffer on that door. Being "stiffer" it will improve with use, that didn't ring true being ex motor trade from 30 years back. This was on pick up day, as there were three other Gren's on site all three had the same issue with the drivers door. Not to worrying in itself if it's adjustable. What concerns me all "Three" with the wrong adjustment at the same agent on the same time they couldn't have been consecutive vehicles of the production line??? Different colours also.

To day, I had a closer look at the gutters as I have been researching roof racks and I'm not 100% with the Rhino offering until I have some confirmation with the gutter fitment. Observations by others and on my vehicle they can be flexed by hand as they are 40mm, 1 1/2" wide, so any design I spend my hard earned money on will need to be supported inboard close to the body/roof join and the clamp design will need to grip on that area not on the outer edge of the gutter as I have seen on some offerings. Now to the point of my discourse , both of my gutters are as straight as 30 year old railway tracks. I will attempt to upload pictures.

Attachments​

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    Grenadier 1.jpg
    239.6 KB · Views: 19
  • Grenadier 2.jpg
    Grenadier 2.jpg
    182.9 KB · Views: 15
Graham
Really sorry to read that your experience has not been what it should be. I hope you get things resolved soon. The odd bing and bong is one thing but you seem to have suffered more than the average.
 

DCPU

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The drivers door requires a very hard slam to close against the rubber seal the other three doors are fine as are the rear doors, the explanation given the rubber being stiffer on that door. Being "stiffer" it will improve with use, that didn't ring true being ex motor trade from 30 years back.
I must have gotten the LHD door seal kit on mine then ~ it's the front passenger door that has the issue on mine.

Now to the point of my discourse , both of my gutters are as straight as 30 year old railway tracks. I will attempt to upload pictures
Wait till they give you the same excuse as on the railways ~ it's just the excessive summer heat and global warming causing the issue:
fbe6d88d07a2e4855560f57ec14a12a9.jpg
 

Unimog 406

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I must have gotten the LHD door seal kit on mine then ~ it's the front passenger door that has the issue on mine.


Wait till they give you the same excuse as on the railways ~ it's just the excessive summer heat and global warming causing the issue:
View attachment 7818917
Sadly this made me chuckle. G
 

Loc Nar

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I just would like to again extend my appreciation to all those who have received a Grenadier, are putting it through its paces, and well documenting all the teething issues. We will all benefit from that. You all need a custom bumper sticker (and maybe a forum tag) - one that reads "Gren and bear it."
 

Jean Mercier

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Passenger door knob problem, me too

View attachment 7812098
Today at my dealer I mentioned for the second time my door knob problem. The first time they told me to put some lubricating spray on it :unsure: as if I didn't know this is temporary. But I did it.

But apparently, this is an "Ineos known" design problem and they have some rubber rings to solve the problem.
 

rovie

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Today at my dealer I mentioned for the second time my door knob problem. The first time they told me to put some lubricating spray on it :unsure: as if I didn't know this is temporary. But I did it.

But apparently, this is an "Ineos known" design problem and they have some rubber rings to solve the problem.
Hi @Jean Mercier since I am now here in the country of origin of the Grenadier, I also have the same phenomenon.
You just have to play around with it a bit with your fingers and the button comes out again.
Ineos does not solve this problem for us. We have to do it ourselves. It's just a question of who is the faster of us two. ;)
 

Jean Mercier

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Hi @Jean Mercier since I am now here in the country of origin of the Grenadier, I also have the same phenomenon.
You just have to play around with it a bit with your fingers and the button comes out again.
Ineos does not solve this problem for us. We have to do it ourselves. It's just a question of who is the faster of us two. ;)
Haha, I know how to "play with my fingers", 🫰 much faster indeed than lubricating. But I would prefer a "final solution", and Hedin told me they have the rings!
 

rovie

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Haha, I know how to "play with my fingers", 🫰 much faster indeed than lubricating. But I would prefer a "final solution", and Hedin told me they have the rings!
Ok. Then please let me know what Hedin did. I am curious.
 
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