UHF Wiring

[303ChickenMan]

Hey guys!

Preface: I’m not great with electrical but am an ambitious DIY guy. I don’t want to burn down my Gren or cause issues for this project.

I have a Midland MXT575. It fits PERFECTLY behind the plastic panel in the footwell right where the Int2 switch is wired. I love the idea of having it wired into that outlet considering it’s in front of an ignition relay with the option to turn it on overhead. However, I’m concerned about the power requirements of this unit. It peaks at 10A and 13.8v. Midland says to run 10 gauge wires beyond 10 feet.

Wiring into this outlet — “go” or “no-go?” Otherwise I will resort to wiring directly to the battery or a fuse box.

 

[Mudnut]

I wired my UHF to the Int 1 wires in the footwell. It is a RHD QM. No issues with power draw, and even wired a USB outlet to the same wires. Int ! and Int2 are both fused, so will blow a fuse if too much current draw.

 

[Clark Kent]

When I first read your post I thought 10 amps was a typo but no, you guys have 50 watt licenced radios that pull a lot of supply power. Australian unlicensed UHFs are 5 watts and fused at 2-3 amps. You're probably ok to run from INT2. The radio can pull 10amps but only under maximum operating conditions. Buy a spare fuse.

 

[OGrid]

When I first read your post I thought 10 amps was a typo but no, you guys have 50 watt licenced radios that pull a lot of supply power. Australian unlicensed UHFs are 5 watts and fused at 2-3 amps. You're probably ok to run from INT2. The radio can pull 10amps but only under maximum operating conditions. Buy a spare fuse.

I’ve thought for a while now that Aus needs to up our game and move up from 5 watts. But like the fast train between Sydney and Melbourne, I unfortunately can’t see it happening in my lifetime.

 

[Itsdchz]

I have it running on INT2

 

[ShaleRenadier]

I am installing the ICOM 2730E and this model draws around 13 amps, while transmitting, and 1.2 amps in STBY. I am installing it to the AUX Bus, although I am afraid it draws power even if it’s not powered on or I forget to power it off. How are you guys wiring it? Or just to remember to turn it off?

 

[Dschubba]

I am installing the ICOM 2730E and this model draws around 13 amps, while transmitting, and 1.2 amps in STBY. I am installing it to the AUX Bus, although I am afraid it draws power even if it’s not powered on or I forget to power it off. How are you guys wiring it? Or just to remember to turn it off?

I wired up an icom ic4100 which I have placed under the passenger seat. The antenna is screwed to front bumper and routed via the grommet in passenger firewall, behind bonnet release lever and under door sill.
Power from the int1 cable near bonnet release.
I sat the remote head on the rubber in front of gear lever and drilled a small hole on the top of the panel beside passenger right leg for remote cable.
Hot glued a wee magnet under this panel and in back of microphone as a magic mic mount.
Bits held in with 3m double sided. Maybe not ideal but ok at moment.

Only had the truck a week, loving it so far.
Only issue was it had no cold in aircon. Seems they had forgotten to gas it.

Sean

 

[303ChickenMan]

I am installing the ICOM 2730E and this model draws around 13 amps, while transmitting, and 1.2 amps in STBY. I am installing it to the AUX Bus, although I am afraid it draws power even if it’s not powered on or I forget to power it off. How are you guys wiring it? Or just to remember to turn it off?

I chose to wire my power from the fuse block under the back seat. I’ll eventually tap from the fuse block for a relay so that it comes on with the ignition. For now, I just need to remember to turn it off. That said, I think it could be on for a loooong time before it drains the battery.

I have the unit hidden behind the panel under the steering wheel and the antenna on the ladder in the back. It’s a beta run for this setup. Subject to change. I also purchased Agile’s RAM ball mount to have the mic mounted up high and out of the way of the center console.

 

[ShaleRenadier]

I ended up routing the antenna cable thru EXT3 grommet routed it inside from roof behind the top left airbag to the rear door pillar down with following the door sill to the unit beneath the driver seat (LHD).

The antenna mount is one and only I could get at the time that’s able to fold the antenna. Which I put on the roof rack.

The controller is separate in my model (the mic connects to either the controller or main unit) I fitted it to a mount I also got from ebay and finish ended up nice. Routed the wire from main unit to controller from the right foot panels hidden up until by top of where the ignition key panel and out to the dash mount.

I routed the power line thru the mid section of the second row to the 80amp stud on the aux box.

Later I will find a way to tap it with a fuse.

 

[Major_B]

I wired my Icom 7100 to INT2. Manual asks for 22A but never had an issue (I set max power for transmit to 75% anyway). My only concern - not sure it happens to you guys - is it reboots when the start/stop feature of the car is on (by default it is).

 

[Logsplitter]

I wired my Icom 7100 to INT2. Manual asks for 22A but never had an issue (I set max power for transmit to 75% anyway). My only concern - not sure it happens to you guys - is it reboots when the start/stop feature of the car is on (by default it is).

Maybe leave the power switch as well as internal 2 switch on when wanting to use your Icom, this will save it from rebooting when stop start is on and you forget to turn stop/start off.

 

[Major_B]

Maybe leave the power switch as well as internal 2 switch on when wanting to use your Icom, this will save it from rebooting when stop start is on and you forget to turn stop/start off.

They are but for some reason the radio reboots when the engine starts again. I guess the amps are used to restart the engine and not enough left to keep the radio on. The 7100 is a beast and needs to be fed…

 

[Clark Kent]

I wired my Icom 7100 to INT2. Manual asks for 22A but never had an issue (I set max power for transmit to 75% anyway). My only concern - not sure it happens to you guys - is it reboots when the start/stop feature of the car is on (by default it is).

Thanks for sharing this @Major_B. You're the first other person I have seen to report that the INT circuits reset during auto stop-start.

I posted on this a while back. I have my Wolfbox mirror powered through INT1. Often, but not always, the mirror turns off if auto stop-start activates. It then often, not always, requires me to physically cycle the INT1 switch to turn the mirror back on.

I could cover this with the power switch as @Logsplitter suggests but then I'm likely to leave the power switch on after I leave the vehicle which keeps anything else I have plugged in alive and drawing power.

 

[303ChickenMan]

I wired my Icom 7100 to INT2. Manual asks for 22A but never had an issue (I set max power for transmit to 75% anyway). My only concern - not sure it happens to you guys - is it reboots when the start/stop feature of the car is on (by default it is).

I find start/stop terribly annoying and not worth the “fuel savings.” I love this little gadget!

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[Logsplitter]

I suppose the other alternative if you have the dual battery is to power from that one or put Ann auxiliary battery in and power from that.

 

[Clark Kent]

I suppose the other alternative if you have the dual battery is to power from that one or put Ann auxiliary battery in and power from that.

I'll move the mirror off INT1 when I am doing elec work next. Parking mode needs a constant 12V supply in addition to a switched supply so I'll grab +12V and ACC power from the interior fuse centre instead. That's the conventional method.
I was using INT1 + PWR as a pseudo parking mode by turning the mirror back on when the vehicle is off if I am parked on the street, which is rare. But that's not quite the same as parking mode so I'll need to change it.

Of broader interest is why the INT circuits power cycle with auto stop-start. Most other electrical things remain powered on when stop-start operates. I wonder if the EXT circuits also power cycle with auto stop-start....

 

[Dschubba]

I'll move the mirror off INT1 when I am doing elec work next. Parking mode needs a constant 12V supply in addition to a switched supply so I'll grab +12V and ACC power from the interior fuse centre instead. That's the conventional method.
I was using INT1 + PWR as a pseudo parking mode by turning the mirror back on when the vehicle is off if I am parked on the street, which is rare. But that's not quite the same as parking mode so I'll need to change it.

Of broader interest is why the INT circuits power cycle with auto stop-start. Most other electrical things remain powered on when stop-start operates. I wonder if the EXT circuits also power cycle with auto stop-start....

Wonder if the master power switch is on, may stop int1 cycling with stop start?

 

[Clark Kent]

Wonder if the master power switch is on, may stop int1 cycling with stop start?

It's a test to see if the power switch masks it but it's not something I'd do as a solution. This was discussed a few posts back. Cheers.