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Traded the Wagon for a Quartermaster

I'm not 100% certain but the turn radius does seem to be larger than the wagon

Grenadier Station Wagon (pre‑2026): ~13.5 m turning circle / 2026: ~5 % tighter turning circle ~12.8 m.

Quartermaster Pickup (pre‑2026): ~14.5 m turning circle / 2026: ~5 % tighter turning circle ~13.8 m
 
Can anyone confirm that the Koni Raid shocks that fit the Wagon will also fit up to the Quartermaster.
The reason I ask is because the QuarterMaster seems to have a slight "Jitter" when hitting bumps/road imperfections that the Wagon doesn't.
I've driven a Quartermaster with a Dirtbox canopy/RTT on it and the jitter was still slightly noticeable.
At this time I don't have any intention on Lifting the truck, Just trying to maximize off pavement ride quality with a larger body shock.
 
I am using the Radflo shocks and they are standard length. They are universal and have been extremely happy with them.
 
Thisy are adjustable so you can dial them in to your driving. I love them and ride has been fantastic on and off road.
 
I was really tempted to get the Quarternaster but in the end I bought a Trailmaster as I already have a a Rubicon Gladiator and they are pretty comparable spec wise. So I kept the Glad and am
Getting rid of my 2005 F-250 crew cab diesel since I no longer need to tow a 30’ gooseneck or large loaded gay wagon’s anymore.

When the Gladiator nears end of life. I’d be looking at a quartermaster.

Just curious, I was able to go to 35” tires with the Gladiator on a stock suspension with no rubbing at all but they designed it that way with higher fenders and deeper wells. Would like to hear if you can do the same with the Quartermaster.
 
I was really tempted to get the Quarternaster but in the end I bought a Trailmaster as I already have a a Rubicon Gladiator and they are pretty comparable spec wise. So I kept the Glad and am
Getting rid of my 2005 F-250 crew cab diesel since I no longer need to tow a 30’ gooseneck or large loaded gay wagon’s anymore.

When the Gladiator nears end of life. I’d be looking at a quartermaster.

Just curious, I was able to go to 35” tires with the Gladiator on a stock suspension with no rubbing at all but they designed it that way with higher fenders and deeper wells. Would like to hear if you can do the same with the Quartermaster.
If you choose a narrow 35 and keep the wheel offset close to the factory spec of 55mm then 35" tires fit without rubbing. The Mickey Thompson Baja Boss AT in 255/85R17 and the Toyo RT Trail in 35x10.5 or 35x11.5 are the best narrow options for 35s.
 
I was really tempted to get the Quarternaster but in the end I bought a Trailmaster as I already have a a Rubicon Gladiator and they are pretty comparable spec wise. So I kept the Glad and am
Getting rid of my 2005 F-250 crew cab diesel since I no longer need to tow a 30’ gooseneck or large loaded gay wagon’s anymore.

When the Gladiator nears end of life. I’d be looking at a quartermaster.

Just curious, I was able to go to 35” tires with the Gladiator on a stock suspension with no rubbing at all but they designed it that way with higher fenders and deeper wells. Would like to hear if you can do the same with the Quartermaster.
I have heard from a few people that when they fitted 35's wether lifted or not they saw some definite power loss with factory gearing.
I've went down that rabbit hole on previous builds and living at higher elevations I'm sticking with tires in the 33" range.
Maybe at sea level power loss wouldn't be an issue.
From my research I'd agree with TCMColorado.
 
Some changes are taking place with the Build.
REDARC Electrics and Canopy/Topper from Dirtbox were the main focus. Moving the spare tire and building out a deck with pull out drawer was important.
I tapped the secondary fuse block to power the Manager 30, and there were factory openings in the cab and bed to allow wiring without any drilling.(y)
The Topper is robust and made of extruded aluminum. With so many access points to allow molle panels and places to bolt kit to. Making a strong and sturdy bulkhead to fix the REDARC kit and switchs to was pretty straight forward.
After the Canopy was fitted I'm find some success in sealing the massive opening between the tailgate and bed. Only after a good dusty shakedown run will I know if my attempt proves worthy.
More details coming soon.
 

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I have heard from a few people that when they fitted 35's wether lifted or not they saw some definite power loss with factory gearing.
I've went down that rabbit hole on previous builds and living at higher elevations I'm sticking with tires in the 33" range.
Maybe at sea level power loss wouldn't be an issue.
From my research I'd agree with TCMColorado.
Coming from my IIa 109 and RRC, the Gren has no shortage of power! While there will certainly be a loss, I would categorize it a slight. I also don’t climb the Great Divide.

Also, Electronic Throttle Controller is set to ECO 5, so plenty of room to compensate for heavier tires.
 
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I've came to completion of the main build of the truck. The DirtBox Overland Cap is one of the key components to the build and made it possible to install kit with relative ease. The modular design made it so versatile to configure the space to meet my requirements. A big thanks to the folks at DirtBox for their part of making this build happen.
I'm contemplating rear spring upgrade to gain just a tad bit of height lost with the weight of the cap and contents.
A trip to test the truck and build out is eminent and if something seems inefficient or simply doesn't work I'll make changes as needed.
My biggest concern with the truck is the rear overhang and departure angle vs the wagon. But we'll see.

Trip photos will soon follow.


Cheers
 

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Looks big, with lots of storage. (y)
By moving the spare under the deck and the addition of a huge floating drawer (32"x28")there is a lot of usable space.
I'll take it to a scale soon to find out what my GVW is.
I think it's now a proper tourer.
 
Coming from a wagon to a QM takes a little adjusting, not the just the turning circle. The ride is a litte different, as someone mentioned it's a little jittery, but I think thats the springs with the longer wheel base and no load. Heavier by 100kgs (the QM) but that is without fridge/drawer system. I'll be 3500kgs when its complted :oops:
 

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Coming from a wagon to a QM takes a little adjusting, not the just the turning circle. The ride is a litte different, as someone mentioned it's a little jittery, but I think thats the springs with the longer wheel base and no load. Heavier by 100kgs (the QM) but that is without fridge/drawer system. I'll be 3500kgs when its complted :oops:
I have to agree with your comment about the ride being "Jittery". I found it to be very much so and almost unacceptable concerning ride comfort. But once I installed the bed cap, the kit build out with the additional weight it is now really settled and quite nice riding. Maybe more comfortable than the Wagon.
Turning radius is probably it's biggest drawback in tight situations and does require getting used to.
The QuarterMaster does feel quite heavy, yet power delivery with the Petrol 3.0ltr motor is responsive and acceptable. And I live at 7,000ft in elevation.
I really like the additional space, yet I'm really trying to keep the truck as light as possible. That's why I personally choose not to do a Roof Top tent and keep the weight below the roof line.
The Bush Company Awning is quite heavy (Around 30kg)but I never felt it effected handling too much on the wagon.
I still stand by my comment about it being a really good Tourer.
 
Awesome build! Im glad I found this thread.

Good to know the “jittery” ride gets better with some weight. I’m waiting for my Dirtbox setup as well; going with the flatbed with tray/canopy camper.

I prepared my Quartermaster for the extra weight with suspension upgrades and loaded it up with 360lb of sandbags to achieve a similar weight of my upcoming setup. I went with the Metalcloak suspension since it works so well on my wagon and yet, I still have the jittery feeling going over bumps. I’ve had that feeling on many other leaf sprung pickups in the past. My guess is the bed mounts are making that sensation, maybe? I’ll find out soon as the flatbed goes on.

I like how you did your electrics. That’s my next move to plan out. What brought you to the Manager 30 and the Renogy 1000w inverter? I love that the Renogy inverter is a much better price than the Redarc version. Any big tradeoffs?
 

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This is why I think I have the perfect setup. All weight over rear wheels, 19 gallon water tank and battery system. Rear tire is mounted underneath next rear axel. Suspension sagged only 1/4 inch.
 

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Awesome build! Im glad I found this thread.

Good to know the “jittery” ride gets better with some weight. I’m waiting for my Dirtbox setup as well; going with the flatbed with tray/canopy camper.

I prepared my Quartermaster for the extra weight with suspension upgrades and loaded it up with 360lb of sandbags to achieve a similar weight of my upcoming setup. I went with the Metalcloak suspension since it works so well on my wagon and yet, I still have the jittery feeling going over bumps. I’ve had that feeling on many other leaf sprung pickups in the past. My guess is the bed mounts are making that sensation, maybe? I’ll find out soon as the flatbed goes on.

I like how you did your electrics. That’s my next move to plan out. What brought you to the Manager 30 and the Renogy 1000w inverter? I love that the Renogy inverter is a much better price than the Redarc version. Any big tradeoffs?
Thanks, I've moved the Manager 30 in 5 different trucks. 2 Defenders, Jeep Gladiator, My Ineos Wagon and now the Quartermaster.
The thing I like about the manager 30 is that it'll take inputs from the Truck alternator (Trigger source is mandatory for full secondary battery charge. At least that's my understanding.) Solar input, and house mains input.
It's simplicity makes it pretty easy to install providing you have some understanding of auto electrics. At times I wish I had the REDVISION but the simple monitor of the 30 gives me all the information I actually need.
Down side is wiring the accessory switches. That kinda complicates wiring ancilleries.
I like that all the working parts are in one unit less the supply circuit breakers/fuses. So far,, (Knock on wood) the Manager 30 and 100ahr litium battery has been trouble free since 2001.
The inverter was bought (1) Product Reputation, (2) and cost. I don't use it for anything thing near capacity so I can't say it would preform under higher load demands.
 
Thanks, I've moved the Manager 30 in 5 different trucks. 2 Defenders, Jeep Gladiator, My Ineos Wagon and now the Quartermaster.
The thing I like about the manager 30 is that it'll take inputs from the Truck alternator (Trigger source is mandatory for full secondary battery charge. At least that's my understanding.) Solar input, and house mains input.
It's simplicity makes it pretty easy to install providing you have some understanding of auto electrics. At times I wish I had the REDVISION but the simple monitor of the 30 gives me all the information I actually need.
Down side is wiring the accessory switches. That kinda complicates wiring ancilleries.
I like that all the working parts are in one unit less the supply circuit breakers/fuses. So far,, (Knock on wood) the Manager 30 and 100ahr litium battery has been trouble free since 2001.
The inverter was bought (1) Product Reputation, (2) and cost. I don't use it for anything thing near capacity so I can't say it would preform under higher load demands.
I think Redvison is overkill for what you need in any vehicle.
I'll be running 200ah lithium (another coming) 2500w inverter 115lt upright fridge plus storage and pantry setup (pictured)
 

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