So, knowing what you know, would you buy it again?

[Mountain4x4]

I hear you, but they could ask for one. Just like they had them modify the engine for long life, or had ZF beef up the torque convertor...Pans and sticks are possible. They went pretty damn far, now lets cross the finish line on details. I know the ZF even has a provision for a dip stick, so not hard.

 

[theox]

I will make mine conditional. And, I do want a Quartermaster in 3 years to build. I want to see them tackle some failings, like improper plastic parts,( tanks, pans, ect) steering improvements, software access for shops, oil light reset, dip sticks, bad parts in general from suppliers, HVAC, ect. But if the driveshaft situation were not to be fixed, it would be a hard no. At that point its likely they would be forced by NITSA and law suits, but regardless. So that would be hard to believe. I want them to follow through and make these minor reliability and drivability improvements. If hardly any new updates came out, I would be a little sad maybe, but meh. Not in need of a bunch of flashy updates, or major re-designs, or massaging seats, or making it 1 foot longer...all the crap manufacturers seem to focus on until its a complicated, expensive mess that no longer is built on purpose. No major things need done, just minor tweaks and reliability issues. The front diff angle being the only really costly re-work. To be clear, the front drive shaft is not a quirk, but an incredibly dangerous engineering flaw. Not as dangerous as my rear locker failure, but so far that is not a common issue, let alone something headed for 90% plus failure rates.

Think about it, if they took the list above and worked it over...Imagine popping the hood and seeing aluminum tanks, dip sticks, then crawl under neath and see aluminum pans, then go for a test drive and it has the new power steering pump design, and the HVAC is slightly tweaked....If you bought one for the right reasons, I bet you are back in a new one. And that brand loyalty is valuable for them in the long run. If 20K of the first 30K buy again, thats some cheap advertising!

Just a heads up, but I had a track Supra and I put this pan on the transmission. Worked like a charm, lowered temps, and kept my transmission fluid where it needed to be. I'm likely to do it again on this truck. Also, yes, I would buy it again.

 

[ryanjl]

I'll just add onto this thread instead of starting a new one.

I live around 7 hours from my closest Ineos dealer. Hopefully something that will be rectified soon, but I'm still willing to give it a go.

So, for someone in my position, should I buy new or used?

Take money out of the equation. I am thinking more along the lines of the notion that a Grenadier with around 5,000 miles on it will have had a few of the little quibbles addressed already, such as door seals, safari window seals, etc.

Are these things that were more common in the first year, but have been addressed in the newer Grenadiers? Or would it be better to have let the first owner take care of all that, and get one that's been beta tested and sorted?

 

[Zimm]

I would not buy this 7 hrs from a dealer, if this was my only truck. In fact, I've got 4-5k on a dealer loaner, at 4hrs away, and its a pain. That having been said, 20g off used if you find what you want, and it's still under warranty, keep the 20 in your pocket. It buys a lot of gas for 7 hr trips.

 

[ryanjl]

I would not buy this 7 hrs from a dealer, if this was my only truck. In fact, I've got 4-5k on a dealer loaner, at 4hrs away, and its a pain. That having been said, 20g off used if you find what you want, and it's still under warranty, keep the 20 in your pocket. It buys a lot of gas for 7 hr trips.

What sort of things have had you in a loaner car for so long?

Looking again, I guess I'm actually only around 6 1/2 hours away from a dealer, so things are looking up already.

 

[Zimm]

What sort of things have had you in a loaner car for so long?

Looking again, I guess I'm actually only around 6 1/2 hours away from a dealer, so things are looking up already.

I have a 3-2 downshift clunk that has not been resolved. Windshield. 12k mile which considering its the warranty on the diffs, and I think you want to have that well documented, and I had an alignment issue that required parts from our friendly frogs overseas, and took 7 weeks. The alignment and clunk are atypical issues, apparently.

Currently i have an issue where when its cold, either the center or rear diff is binding going around a sharp bend. In a couple hundred yards it stops. Thats gonna be a mystery.

 

[ryanjl]

I have a 3-2 downshift clunk that has not been resolved. Windshield. 12k mile which considering its the warranty on the diffs, and I think you want to have that well documented, and I had an alignment issue that required parts from our friendly frogs overseas, and took 7 weeks. The alignment and clunk are atypical issues, apparently.

Currently i have an issue where when its cold, either the center or rear diff is binding going around a sharp bend. In a couple hundred yards it stops. Thats gonna be a mystery.

Wild. The transmission is a ZF unit, right? I had one in my LR4 and found it to be really reliable. There are no shortage of ZF mechanics around--one of those things where Ineos should open up its service network for things like htat.

All the diff stuff sounds interesting. No idea what could cause that.

 

[Tazzieman]

That having been said, 20g off used if you find what you want, and it's still under warranty, keep the 20 in your pocket. It buys a lot of gas for 7 hr trips.

Or a uniformed chauffeur, whilst you snooze in the back seat, with some schmaltzy Eagles ballad on repeat

 

[Cncpt2]

Wild. The transmission is a ZF unit, right? I had one in my LR4 and found it to be really reliable. There are no shortage of ZF mechanics around--one of those things where Ineos should open up its service network for things like htat.

All the diff stuff sounds interesting. No idea what could cause that.

You are correct - It's the INEOS calibration/software as far as I can tell.

 

[Mountain4x4]

Wonder if its your rear diff trying to lock like mine?

 

[MattA]

ZF transmission is a fantastic auto, it’s the software running it that Ineos has not got right
On a side note, if you want the auto to last more than 150- 200,000km get it serviced every 70,000km

 

[Bayford]

I would buy again to the same spec that I originally purchased. Simple reason being there is no car available in the UK at the moment that I would rather have.
The Grenadier has been far from perfect but the pros outweigh the cons and i find its quirks and foibles more endearing than irritating. I have a similar view of my children.

 

[Tom Ireland]

ZF transmission is a fantastic auto, it’s the software running it that Ineos has not got right
On a side note, if you want the auto to last more than 150- 200,000km get it serviced every 70,000km

I find the engine (diesel) gearbox combination the best I have driven. Previously had a ford ranger 10 speed.
The zf is streets ahead in every way.
Always in the right gear towing and is not afraid of pulling hard at 15-1800 rpm.
Downshifts quickly under heavy braking.
It is a sublime combination.
Agree re servicing gearbox.

 

[Shoogs]

I get that people love this vehicle, hey I do/did/maybe don’t anymore… but it’s not what was promised, for some the default thought process for a lot of the issues is that “hey it will never happen to me” excellent head in the sand denial and self protection…

Until your driveshaft fails… then it’s a POS… dealer denies any knowledge, and then the dealer changes or closes, no warranty and no stock to replace anyway. So you buy Rzeppa/Teraflex etc… spend a few hours underneath if mechanically minded or try the Agile shaft still trying to fall back in love, but deep down there is doubt…

Truth is on even a 30 year old Defender/Landcruiser Uni joints are easily inspected, greased and serviced and easy to tell if a failure was imminent, I bet everyone who has read this thread and others now regularly checks for a torn boot or grease on radius arms and chassis, mine was fine apparently at a 60,000km service and failed 300kms later…

My wife provides clarity, can it fail again and what will happen if it does at 100kmh…?

The answer isn’t nice so she doesn’t drive it… despite knowing how to check…