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Show us your mods.

Bad Naughty Zoot said:
As I responded to another commenter...
"No doubt it is a clean solution, however, it is all good until you can't park near your water source & have to hand carry jugs to and from a water refill location. One of our regular places to refill our water jugs in Baja has no parking nearby & is away from the road & we have to park down the road & carry our jugs to them. We have also refilled in places in the US where we had to carry our jugs to the water source for refill. My preference for separate jugs is based on a lifetime of of travel where we camp in remote locations and have to carry our own water and knowing the place we have used to refill."

I live in the desert SW where there are no streams or lakes for water and we do remote camping so similar to the Simpson. On a desert 10 day trip we will carry 80L of water.

A tie down strap through all the handles of 10L sceptre jugs solves the tie down problem.
Click to expand...
Yes, sounds like a pfaff. We normally just stop off and fill it from a gas station tap before we pass the black stump.
 
farney43 said:
I love this look - probably exactly what I would build. What made you change out the stock wheels for the Owls? Are they better than the stock steel?
Click to expand...
Thanks! I like the look of the owl wheels better, they are also wider and have an offset that creates a more aggressive stance.
 
Tom D said:
Looking good!

A more modest mod for me today… fitting an inflatable lumbar roll to the drivers seat.
Removing the seat back was tricky, not knowing how its put together. To save you all the bother (and two broken clips) here’s how to do it…
The black plastic cover is attached by large clips that hook on to the metal parts of the seat, there are a further two replaceable clips at the bottom. (White) these were not salvageable but could be replaced. Although to be honest it doesn't seem to need them.
To get it off without breaking anything you‘ll need to insert a flat tool at the base and release the two central clips, you do this by pushing upwards, then release two of the side clips, by pushing in from the side with the flat tool. I have shown the locations of these measured from the bottom, as you will be doing all of this blind. The hooks at the other side will come out by moving teh whole thing towards the side you have already removed. The top hook is large and can only be removed by pulling the whole thing downwards once all the other clips have been removed.

Fitting the air bag was easy and it works very well inserted between the sprung wires and the foam seat back. I secured it with a couple of cable ties… Job done!
Click to expand...
Thanks for all this help. I have this planned for this winter. The clips scare me, this will help.
 
...installed some internal cross bars to store my fishing rods and light things up.
PXL_20251104_231250849.RAW-01.MP.COVER.jpg
PXL_20251104_231301943.RAW-01.MP.COVER.jpg
PXL_20251104_231356432.RAW-01.MP.COVER.jpg


The light is switched with the left footwelll outlet. Love that my rods now have their place to live.
 
chrsbe said:
...installed some internal cross bars to store my fishing rods and light things up.
View attachment 7912689View attachment 7912690View attachment 7912691

The light is switched with the left footwelll outlet. Love that my rods now have their place to live.
Click to expand...
I've done a similar thing with the one nearest the front seats to strap a surfboard under and also to the roof shelf at the rear. Works great, unlike myself🤣
Not been able to make use of it since I first fitted it ☹️
 
Max said:
This is not everyones cuppa tea but I have noticed how my windscreen is starting to look sandblasted because of our overlanding on dirts and backroads.
It is a great bug, sand and small stones deflector for our straight up and down windscreens.

Allens Bug Deflector - No Holes Drilled In Bonnet - Large DIY Kit​


allensigns.com.au
https://www.allensigns.com.au › products › allens-bug-d...






View attachment 7898627View attachment 7898628View attachment 7898633
Click to expand...
Good News: Thanks for the lead Max, I bought one after a couple of emails and a very helpful phonecalls.... and it finally arrived today
Sad News: I received a text message yesterday evening that Gary Allen, inventor and owner of Allen Signs and Tint located in Mareeba FNQ died accidentally last Sunday. RIP. I'm somewhat dazed by the news....
 
DenisM said:
Good News: Thanks for the lead Max, I bought one after a couple of emails and a very helpful phonecalls.... and it finally arrived today
Sad News: I received a text message yesterday evening that Gary Allen, inventor and owner of Allen Signs and Tint located in Mareeba FNQ died accidentally last Sunday. RIP. I'm somewhat dazed by the news....
Click to expand...
I was the same when I received the text, after speaking with him and what he did for me I was ready to call in on my travels and shake the good fellow's hand, RIP.

I am glad you have yours, I don't think you will be disappointed (y)
 
I've always carried Halotron fire extinguishers in my vehicles. It's rated for class A, B & C fires and - most importantly - does not leave a residue. Dry chemical fire extinguishers are cheap but leave a corrosive residue that will damage wiring and electronics. That damage can easily cost far more to repair than the extra expense of a Halotron extinguisher.

I built a mounting adapter that screws into the location of a D-ring near the right rear cargo door. The mount is made from white oak with its perimeter wrapped in 2 ounce fiberglass. The sides have a 6° draft angle to match the depression that the D-ring sits in. T-nuts are pressed in the back to accept M5 x 30 screws that secure the actual fire extinguisher mount. The large hole is for a M8 screw that replaces the D-ring fastener.

IMG_0279.jpg


IMG_0280.jpg


I'm using a Range Industries 2½ pound fire extinguisher mount. Here are all the parts prior to painting:

IMG_0281.jpg


Once painted, I wrapped the adapter in 1/16" thick felt so the mount will compress into the D-ring well with a nice snug fit.

IMG_0284.jpg


And here is a picture of everything installed.

IMG_0285.jpg


I have the extinguisher sitting just off the plastic shelf below. No matter how much cargo I put in the back, the fire extinguisher should always be easily accessible.

My wife used an extinguisher identical to this to put out a power steering fluid fire in our Porsche a few years ago. This 2½ pound extinguisher is good for about 20 seconds of continuous operation, so we also carry an Element fire extinguisher as a back up.
 
Last edited:
I have a couple, I am a narcissist so I video most of my shenanigans.
I 3d printed a fire extinguisher mount.
built a tray to put my sunglasses up by the safari window and a phone mount.
I'm also lazy so this is the last video I posted.
just click on my channel to see the rest of the videos of the stupid stuff I get into, I do a lot of stupid stuff.
I plan on whipping out my Sailrite sewing machine and making a few more useless things to make my life easier.. or just give me something to do.
trigger warning, I curse and smoke a lot

View: https://youtu.be/DjvJ0VStyDI?si=ExsPojDw7oV4_oOa
 
I replaced the six Torx drive M10 x 1.5mm x 22.5mm bolts holding down the plastic panels beneath the rear seats. The first time I had to remove these bolts, I had to press a Torx bit out of its 3/8" drive holder, then use a small ratchet to drive the tool from underneath the seat bars.

The new bolts are internal hex drive M10 x 1.5mm x 25mm with washers. Now I can install or remove the bolts with an Allen ball driver - much easier. I have to wonder why Ineos used such large fasteners (with thread locker!) here - a small screw with a fender washer would have worked quite well.

New and OEM fasteners shown here:

IMG_0483.jpg


Here's how a ball driver fits in one of the new bolts:

IMG_0482.jpg
 
Glen said:
I replaced the six Torx drive M10 x 1.5mm x 22.5mm bolts holding down the plastic panels beneath the rear seats. The first time I had to remove these bolts, I had to press a Torx bit out of its 3/8" drive holder, then use a small ratchet to drive the tool from underneath the seat bars.

The new bolts are internal hex drive M10 x 1.5mm x 25mm with washers. Now I can install or remove the bolts with an Allen ball driver - much easier. I have to wonder why Ineos used such large fasteners (with thread locker!) here - a small screw with a fender washer would have worked quite well.

New and OEM fasteners shown here:

View attachment 7926478

Here's how a ball driver fits in one of the new bolts:

View attachment 7926479
Click to expand...
I haven't done the side by side comparison but I wonder if these large fasteners are for the hard lid that is used for the two seater commercial version? Agree they are overkill for the plastic trim.
 
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