Americas Interesting Steering / Adjustment Post from Owl Vans Engineering

[terdrocket]

I’ve driven close to 3k miles in my Grenadier with about 95% of it on the highway. My speed has been anywhere from 55-85 mph and I have not had any issues with the steering. I actually prefer the steering as is and appreciate the “manualness” of the driving experience in the Grenadier.

This is where I am. 2500 miles in and it always tracks straight as an arrow no matter the speed. Minimal steering input is required. My steering is tight and almost manual feeling at low speeds, parking lots, etc.

 

[bamanuke]

Have noticed that at dealer inflation, tires have a "high" center bulge. Will air down this weekend. What are you running at now?

36psi all around

 

[Offroad]

I believe the manual suggests an unladen pressure of 36-37psi...

Brian ( @GooseGear ) found the Grenadier to have almost 50/50 weight distribution, so divide your curb weight by 4 and that's the load each tire carries static, of course, this will change as you drive/turn/etc and weight transfers; but will give you an idea of pressures to start with. Beyond this you can also do the chalk test (using chalk, stripe the tread, then drive forward/back and see where chalk is missing, adjust accordingly up or down).

Curious, is the 38 psi cold or hot? Thx

 

[Krabby]

Curious, is the 38 psi cold or hot? Thx

It is a good habit to check your pressures cold. I believe that yields more accurate/consistent levels.

 

[anand]

Curious, is the 38 psi cold or hot? Thx

Cold, always base actual pressures off of "cold" before driving; there are so many factors that can alter tire temps (road surface, road temp, ambient temp, wind, turning, etc) that then directly can change each tire's pressure independently making hot pressures more or less useless in terms of actually defining a baseline

 

[anand]

It would have been nice if he showed how much caster his Grenadier was running when he initially put it on the rack. If the factory alignment specification is 2 degrees, I don't see how this is a "free upgrade". They just set the caster correctly.

I appreciate that Owl is trying to make a name for themselves in the Grenadier community by making helpful recommendations, but I don't see "make sure your car is aligned to factory specs" as groundbreaking.

Also, it is not a free upgrade when you are paying a shop for an alignment. Whether or not adjustments take place, there is still the time to get the vehicle on the rack, place the wheel sensors, etc; the vast majority of shops would still charge some amount of labor for that, even if you get it on there and realize you're already at the factory set 2° of caster and don't need to change anything.

 

[Tom109]

It would have been nice if he showed how much caster his Grenadier was running when he initially put it on the rack. If the factory alignment specification is 2 degrees, I don't see how this is a "free upgrade". They just set the caster correctly.

I appreciate that Owl is trying to make a name for themselves in the Grenadier community by making helpful recommendations, but I don't see "make sure your car is aligned to factory specs" as groundbreaking.

View attachment 7846213

Isn't Owl the same guy that said our hinges were all wrong (happily offering a solution looking for a problem) ?

 

[[ Adam ]]

Isn't Owl the same guy that said our hinges were all wrong (happily offering a solution looking for a problem) ?

Don't forget the (now taken down) youtube video about the faulty snorkel.

 

[Shaky]

I assume this has been covered elsewhere, but unladen / lightly laden are you talking 38/40 or 40/40 or lower? I used to run the 200 series at 40 front and back day to day.
I’ll be doing 2000km mostly highway in the first few days of ownership so I’d like to get it sorted early.

I run mine which is essentially unladen, and I mean 1 or 2 passengers and 2 dogs at about 13kg each, at 36psi all round (cold pressure).

It was set at 42psi when I picked it up and I thought it was horrible. 36 is much more acceptable.

I will say that if I could change one thing it would be to have rack and pinion steering on it, my driving is 80% on road though.

I may in time see what companies come up with to improve steering but it’s not a real issue as it stands.

 

[Tom109]

I don't have any issues with the steering. It drives and handles excellent. I drive mostly country roads with center crown and uneven paving, but even highway runs are great. I did reset my pressures to 36F/41R

 

[NoMoTaco]

It funny that this came out/was posted yesterday, as I was simultaneously hanging in my local shop yesterday for the new tires to be installed and to get an alignment (Not because of the new tires obviously, but because many members have mentioned these vehicles coming from the factory slightly out of spec). They also centered my steering wheel as it was notched slightly to the left when driving straight down the road (But I feel the crown of the road may have been contributing)

I did not take a picture of the alignment machine screen, but these were my pre and post alignment specs:

Pre Alignment
Camber: -0.5 (L) & -0.5 (R)
Caster: +1.2 (L) & +1.5 (R)
Toe: +0.28 (L) & +0.12 (R)

Post Alignment
Camber: -0.5 (L) & -0.5 (R)
Caster: +2.0 (L) & +2.0 (R)
Toe: +0.10(L) & +0.11 (R)

There wasn't much of a discernible difference in the driving experience (albeit I only had 200 miles under my belt with the factory alignment and KO2s) My steering/handling experience has largely mirrored others in that there is a minor "Dead spot" in the center while driving straight, mine does not wander at speed but minor corrections are required with road undulations, and there is always a bit of an anticipatory component to navigating turns at speed on winding roads. No complaints here, very happy customer thus far.

 

[Norb-TX]

Have driven 2500 miles so far. At first the car was pulling hard to the left on the highway (over 60). Adjustments were made and things improved - now at highway speeds while coasting the car drives straight. If I accelerate it darts hard to the left.

Mine does the same. Power on it pulls to the left, power off, goes down straight. It's frustrating but I'm only at 200 miles. I'll call Mossy and see what they say about it.

 

[[ Adam ]]

Mine does the same. Power on it pulls to the left, power off, goes down straight. It's frustrating but I'm only at 200 miles. I'll call Mossy and see what they say about it.

Yeah - that's odd. I'd start with a check of the alignment.

 

[terdrocket]

Mine does the same. Power on it pulls to the left, power off, goes down straight. It's frustrating but I'm only at 200 miles. I'll call Mossy and see what they say about it.

Definitely alignment issue. Had the same issue on my LC200 after new shocks and a crap alignment from 4wheel parts. On throttle pull one direction, on brake dive in opposite direction.

 

[Krabby]

Definitely alignment issue. Had the same issue on my LC200 after new shocks and a crap alignment from 4wheel parts. On throttle pull one direction, on brake dive in opposite direction.

 

[donnygreygrenadier]

Also, it is not a free upgrade when you are paying a shop for an alignment. Whether or not adjustments take place, there is still the time to get the vehicle on the rack, place the wheel sensors, etc; the vast majority of shops would still charge some amount of labor for that, even if you get it on there and realize you're already at the factory set 2° of caster and don't need to change anything.

Agreed (not free), BMW alignment “specials” are in the $300 range - I can only imagine what Ineos will be.

 

[[ Adam ]]

Agreed (not free), BMW alignment “specials” are in the $300 range - I can only imagine what Ineos will be.

https://www.pepboys.com/pep-boys-lifetime-wheel-alignment-service/product/1170564

It's just an alignment - I think NTB and others have similar offers.

 

[Korg]

Mine does the same. Power on it pulls to the left, power off, goes down straight. It's frustrating but I'm only at 200 miles. I'll call Mossy and see what they say about it.

Recommend a wheel alignment and make sure to get the caster set to factory spec. Mine was "out" and horible, now happy with it.

 

[Offroad]

Recommend a wheel alignment and make sure to get the caster set to factory spec. Mine was "out" and horible, now happy with it.

Send the bill to your dealer. Unacceptable in my opinion.

 

[Catpaw4x4]

It funny that this came out/was posted yesterday, as I was simultaneously hanging in my local shop yesterday for the new tires to be installed and to get an alignment (Not because of the new tires obviously, but because many members have mentioned these vehicles coming from the factory slightly out of spec). They also centered my steering wheel as it was notched slightly to the left when driving straight down the road (But I feel the crown of the road may have been contributing)

I did not take a picture of the alignment machine screen, but these were my pre and post alignment specs:

Pre Alignment
Camber: -0.5 (L) & -0.5 (R)
Caster: +1.2 (L) & +1.5 (R)
Toe: +0.28 (L) & +0.12 (R)

Post Alignment
Camber: -0.5 (L) & -0.5 (R)
Caster: +2.0 (L) & +2.0 (R)
Toe: +0.10(L) & +0.11 (R)

There wasn't much of a discernible difference in the driving experience (albeit I only had 200 miles under my belt with the factory alignment and KO2s) My steering/handling experience has largely mirrored others in that there is a minor "Dead spot" in the center while driving straight, mine does not wander at speed but minor corrections are required with road undulations, and there is always a bit of an anticipatory component to navigating turns at speed on winding roads. No complaints here, very happy customer thus far.

Yep steering wheel a notch (~ 1") to the left - also equal free play.