Installing a house battery

[parb]

You see the wire going from the fuse block to be positive in the pic? That's the wire. It will power all aux circuits like the one up on the roof, the one in the foot well etc.

My starlink is on this circuit and that is what i wanted on my lithium battery

 

[parb]

I think this is a clearer picture and i think i wasn't very clear in my prior reply.

This ahows that i lifted the wire from the last fuse and hardwired it to the battery instead of the fuse block. I used ring terminals and i could have used an isolated screw in fuse but i didn't have one so i used ring terminals with a nut and bolt.

I isolated them with electric taoe and kept them in the fuse box to protect them from abrasions. I use heatshrink tube with glue over the ring terminals base for extra security.

I wired this to an 80amp fuse on the battery. This way the high load auxiliary circuits are powered by the lithium battery but they are still controlled by the main power switch in the load panel plus each circuit switch. This only controls the auxillary circuits, but that's the one I'm most interested in since i have my radio and my starlink on those circuits. I also have the fridge connected to a different fuse block that is also connected to the battery. My battery has a builtin battery manager capping power out to 100A.

If i was super serious i would have installed bigger battery, there is a battery that is 315Ah that i would have picked and it has 200A continuous output. But for me right now this works pretty well.

 

[Brad@SuperiorCO]

I think this is a clearer picture and i think i wasn't very clear in my prior reply.

This ahows that i lifted the wire from the last fuse and hardwired it to the battery instead of the fuse block. I used ring terminals and i could have used an isolated screw in fuse but i didn't have one so i used ring terminals with a nut and bolt.

I isolated them with electric taoe and kept them in the fuse box to protect them from abrasions. I use heatshrink tube with glue over the ring terminals base for extra security.

I wired this to an 80amp fuse on the battery. This way the high load auxiliary circuits are powered by the lithium battery but they are still controlled by the main power switch in the load panel plus each circuit switch. This only controls the auxillary circuits, but that's the one I'm most interested in since i have my radio and my starlink on those circuits. I also have the fridge connected to a different fuse block that is also connected to the battery. My battery has a builtin battery manager capping power out to 100A.

If i was super serious i would have installed bigger battery, there is a battery that is 315Ah that i would have picked and it has 200A continuous output. But for me right now this works pretty well.

Thanks for the new picture. I did understand your previous description, it finally clicked in my brain. I was thinking it was much more complicated.
I didn't get to it today as I had to take care of my grandsons, but I will get to it in the next few weeks. I do have a fuse block reserved for this that already has the 80A fuse in it, so I just need to build a cable and get it done.
Thanks for the help.

 

[GrenAF]

I think this is a clearer picture and i think i wasn't very clear in my prior reply.

This ahows that i lifted the wire from the last fuse and hardwired it to the battery instead of the fuse block. I used ring terminals and i could have used an isolated screw in fuse but i didn't have one so i used ring terminals with a nut and bolt.

I isolated them with electric taoe and kept them in the fuse box to protect them from abrasions. I use heatshrink tube with glue over the ring terminals base for extra security.

I wired this to an 80amp fuse on the battery. This way the high load auxiliary circuits are powered by the lithium battery but they are still controlled by the main power switch in the load panel plus each circuit switch. This only controls the auxillary circuits, but that's the one I'm most interested in since i have my radio and my starlink on those circuits. I also have the fridge connected to a different fuse block that is also connected to the battery. My battery has a builtin battery manager capping power out to 100A.

If i was super serious i would have installed bigger battery, there is a battery that is 315Ah that i would have picked and it has 200A continuous output. But for me right now this works pretty well.


View attachment 7919549

The way you are setup, if you are at camp, and have your auxiliary lights or starlink etc on, does that mean you are also drawing a load from your starter battery via anything powered to the factory 12v outlets or other ignition driven sources such as wolf box (if wired cockpit fuse box)? Obviously one could just not wire anything or have anything plugged in but those sources are hot correct? Curious what all is powered on from the starter battery when the power switch is on, despite the high load fuse box being isolated to the auxiliary battery.

 

[Brad@SuperiorCO]

The way you are setup, if you are at camp, and have your auxiliary lights or starlink etc on, does that mean you are also drawing a load from your starter battery via anything powered to the factory 12v outlets or other ignition driven sources such as wolf box (if wired cockpit fuse box)? Obviously one could just not wire anything or have anything plugged in but those sources are hot correct? Curious what all is powered on from the starter battery when the power switch is on, despite the high load fuse box being isolated to the auxiliary battery.

If the AUX switch is off, then the relay is off, and this busbar is isolated from the starter battery (relay) but connected to the house battery
If the AUX switch is on, then this busbar is connected to the starter battery and house battery.

I isolated mine

 

[parb]

i tried hard to minimize the things that are active on the starter battery when i have the power switch on in the high load switches. i have nothing on my cigarette lighters or usb ports. my wolfbox is hardwared to the ignition so it comes on with door opening but if the car doesnt start up it shuts itself down. i have kept the doors open on my car and have had nothing running on any aux switches except what i moved to the house battery and i cant notice any meaningful draw on the starter battery.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks for the new picture. I did understand your previous description, it finally clicked in my brain. I was thinking it was much more complicated.
I didn't get to it today as I had to take care of my grandsons, but I will get to it in the next few weeks. I do have a fuse block reserved for this that already has the 80A fuse in it, so I just need to build a cable and get it done.
Thanks for the help.

View attachment 7919557

I love your grandson's Grenadier !

 

[GrenAF]

If the AUX switch is off, then the relay is off, and this busbar is isolated from the starter battery (relay) but connected to the house battery
If the AUX switch is on, then this busbar is connected to the starter battery and house battery.

I isolated mine

View attachment 7923994

Thanks for the pictures. So if you move the high load fuse/relay panel over to the auxiliary battery, and the PWR switch is off, do you still get power to the high load switches (ext2-5)? Also, if the nato is still wired to the starter, does that mean ext 4 provides a signal to the relay via the aux battery but the actual nato is powered via the starter? Also for those with winch prep, is ext 4 also triggering the winch solenoid that is also powered by the starter?

Feel like I’m close to understanding this but still some loose ends.

 

[Brad@SuperiorCO]

Thanks for the pictures. So if you move the high load fuse/relay panel over to the auxiliary battery, and the PWR switch is off, do you still get power to the high load switches (ext2-5)?
>> No, the PWR is no a different circuit. I need to pull the ceiling panel down and find a solution. I believe I need to pull the feed from the PWR switch and feed it to the 4 AUX switches. On my list soon.

Also, if the nato is still wired to the starter, does that mean ext 4 provides a signal to the relay via the aux battery but the actual nato is powered via the starter? YES
>> I don't use the NATO, I don't know. But I do use the winch, which is also EXT4. While if we power the Optional High Load Panel from a house battery, and jump power to the switches as discussed, there is one more relay in the train, and logic.
- Engine is running
- Transmission in D, R, N
- Traveling <80kph

When using the winch, it also has a 3 min timeout when idle, so you need to flip EXT4 on and off to re-energize.

The feed for the winch & NATO, comes from the starter battery, when the engine is running, thru a 500A relay. So there are 2 relays in the chain, one from Optional High Load Panel, then the real power from the logic.

See Dr. Roks guide, around page 9. This has been my bible.