HVAC

[Sammyd]

2023-2025 owners: Your thoughts on your hvac system.

 

[LC0013]

Well, I did my civic duty......MIne has worked well with no issues at all.

 

[Tom109]

Same. MY24 delivered Jan-2024, I had the hot AC issue a few times the first Summer, but this was resolved through IA issued dealer fixes.

 

[Tenac]

Almost should have put the poll to these to attempt to avoid general acceptance or reluctance bias:

Works and has never had any issues
Has had issue with blowing Hot when wanting cold
Has had issue blowing Cold when wanting hot
Has been fixed and working
Has been fixed but still not working.

 

[Sammyd]

Almost should have put the poll to these to attempt to avoid general acceptance or reluctance bias:

Works and has never had any issues
Has had issue with blowing Hot when wanting cold
Has had issue blowing Cold when wanting hot
Has been fixed and working
Has been fixed but still not working.

Good idea. Maybe a more detailed poll will be more informative.

 

[derek_zoolander]

Mine worked well upon delivery and then has resumed working well once I topped off coolant and performed the purge procedure mentioned elsewhere and the rok_dr manual

 

[Skydance]

The key is to keep purging and topping up. It works, not ideal but it works.

 

[Mike24Ineos]

I would rather have a good manual system than a quirky auto set-up.
I get fog on my windshield from the actuator not closing in all selected air flow settings.

 

[Tom109]

I would rather have a good manual system than a quirky auto set-up.
I get fog on my windshield from the actuator not closing in all selected air flow settings.

I treat it as a manual system by only selecting,
- floor vents or floor/dash (never defrost)
- temp selection
- fan speed
- AC as required

 

[abbeyroad]

9K mile '24 in sunny LA. Blew hot maybe 4-5 times when I really needed it to blow ice cold. Dropped it off today in Pasadena to get it fixed. They said it's some valve that needs to be replaced or repaired. Said they no longer replace the entire HVAC unit.

Just work and I'm straight. I'm not even a demanding user given climate.

 

[Sammyd]

For me this single issue is what I’m on the fence on regarding a 2025 or 2026.
The new 2025 I drove last weekend took about 15 minutes to warm up. Still, all vents were not expelling warm air. You would think it had 4 zone HVAC.
The 2026 warmed up in 3 min. This is what one would expect from a $90k vehicle.

 

[abbeyroad]

This is what one would expect from a $90k vehicle.

One would expect a reliable HVAC in any modern vehicle. Price has nothing to do with it imho.

 

[Mike24Ineos]

The B58 sends coolant to zones to better control temperature. My 2 series would send warm air to the cabin in the first minute. Wondering if the cabin is a less critical circuit in the Grenadier because I don't notice the same control here.
Sorry, we have a little cold snap in Miami or I would be talking more about the a/c. I am beginning to fear those blazing hot days from what I'm reading here though.

 

[CRH]

For me this single issue is what I’m on the fence on regarding a 2025 or 2026.
The new 2025 I drove last weekend took about 15 minutes to warm up. Still, all vents were not expelling warm air. You would think it had 4 zone HVAC.
The 2026 warmed up in 3 min. This is what one would expect from a $90k vehicle.

It will depend on how well the air was purged on initial production. Fingers crossed they have it sorted for new ones as it was hit and miss upto now.
It's ultimately fixable but may take time if you purchase one that won't blow hot and warm temperatures.
Hopefully the new.ones have more sensors to allow for quicker adjustments.

 

[Tom109]

The B58 sends coolant to zones to better control temperature. My 2 series would send warm air to the cabin in the first minute. Wondering if the cabin is a less critical circuit in the Grenadier because I don't notice the same control here.
Sorry, we have a little cold snap in Miami or I would be talking more about the a/c. I am beginning to fear those blazing hot days from what I'm reading here though.

No one has really identified the default parked flap position(s). Whenever I turn on the fan, even with the distribution preset to floor, there is a blast of cold (I assume outside ambient) air from the dash before the flaps catch up. My heat works fine but this little nuance contributes to the feeling the system has to figure out what you told it and give a few extra seconds to process the dial/controls input.

 

[JP4]

Almost should have put the poll to these to attempt to avoid general acceptance or reluctance bias:

Works and has never had any issues
Has had issue with blowing Hot when wanting cold
Has had issue blowing Cold when wanting hot
Has been fixed and working
Has been fixed but still not working.

Took delivery of mine June 2024 has 15k miles now. This is my story as well.

 

[Sammyd]

9K mile '24 in sunny LA. Blew hot maybe 4-5 times when I really needed it to blow ice cold. Dropped it off today in Pasadena to get it fixed. They said it's some valve that needs to be replaced or repaired. Said they no longer replace the entire HVAC unit.

Just work and I'm straight. I'm not even a demanding user given climate.

Did the HVAC get fixed?

 

[abbeyroad]

Did the HVAC get fixed?

Dropped off this past Monday. Truck is still waiting to get into the shop. They’re backed up.

 

[Skydance]

I’ve had my car for 3+ years. I can tell you the HVAC is getting better. Annoying I know.

This thing needs purging. I really don’t know where the air is coming from. But each and everytime I purge and top up, my symptoms get better. I have recently checked again and my coolants levels have dropped. So again I top up. I plan to do this every season. The only thing I need to check in summer is the condensation drips I used to get on the passenger footwell. So far it’s stopped.

The common symptom where the rear vents are hotter than than the front face is getting better. The rear one is only slightly hotter than the front. I remember previously the rear one was so hot I was concerned it was melting the plastic.

I’ve learned for a happy Grenadier. You have to do 3 things:-

1) Top up coolant to max and NOT more on a cold engine because doing so will created leaks through the reservoir joints. Trapped air expands more than liquid and it’s pushed out. Initially, I thought mine was leaking. I wiped off the dried off coolant, corrected the levels and it never leaked again.

2) Trickle charge the battery every couple of months. Voltage level affects sensors.

3) I standby this. The steering reservoir hydraulic fluid should be slightly less than 1/2 on the black stalk indicator. Lesser or virtually none steering whine. The steering reservoir is too small and unlike the conventional steering reservoir, it doesn’t have a return line. Vice versa, if you over fill, I guarantee lock to lock will need an arm workout, whine like a pig, you can forget about that 3 point turn and drives like a boat. I don’t have an upgraded steering damper. The steering is a lot lighter, accurate, lock to lock is easier with lesser pressure push back on full lock. I’ve been running this for 1 year now, no issues and off roading no steering kick back because I still have the OE damper on.

 

[CRH]

I’ve had my car for 3+ years. I can tell you the HVAC is getting better. Annoying I know.

This thing needs purging. I really don’t know where the air is coming from. But each and everytime I purge and top up, my symptoms get better. I have recently checked again and my coolants levels have dropped. So again I top up. I plan to do this every season. The only thing I need to check in summer is the condensation drips I used to get on the passenger footwell. So far it’s stopped.

The common symptom where the rear vents are hotter than than the front face is getting better. The rear one is only slightly hotter than the front. I remember previously the rear one was so hot I was concerned it was melting the plastic.

I’ve learned for a happy Grenadier. You have to do 3 things:-

1) Top up coolant to max and NOT more on a cold engine because doing so will created leaks through the reservoir joints. Trapped air expands more than liquid and it’s pushed out. Initially, I thought mine was leaking. I wiped off the dried off coolant, corrected the levels and it never leaked again.

2) Trickle charge the battery every couple of months. Voltage level affects sensors.

3) I standby this. The steering reservoir hydraulic fluid should be slightly less than 1/2 on the black stalk indicator. Lesser or virtually none steering whine. The steering reservoir is too small and unlike the conventional steering reservoir, it doesn’t have a return line. Vice versa, if you over fill, I guarantee lock to lock will need an arm workout, whine like a pig, you can forget about that 3 point turn and drives like a boat. I don’t have an upgraded steering damper. The steering is a lot lighter, accurate, lock to lock is easier with lesser pressure push back on full lock. I’ve been running this for 1 year now, no issues and off roading no steering kick back because I still have the OE damper on.

Totally agree with your HVAC observations, mine is a 2023 and has been getting better all the time, I would say it is now 'normal'
Trickle charger is another thing I do every now and then, same reason
Never looked at steering reservoir, don't get any squealing and it work fine for me

I think these things work, they just need time to settle in and the users to work out the kinks. I think they nailed the old Defender