Hidden light bar Using OWL Brackets But the masochistic way as always

[Tinki]

Ok guys here it goes.

Usual disclaimer, I did this myself , I am happy to accept the risks.

If you copy anything you do so in your own risk. If you injure yourself or burn your car down is your fault.

With that out of the way, let’s get down to business. I wanted a light bar for the car.

As always, I wanted this to be as reversible as possible, so cutting wiring harnesses was simply not an option for me.

I wanted the light bar to be connected to EXT5 and to turn on with high beams.

So, I ordered and owl van Lazer 18 elite light bar to install on the grenadier.

The placement of it was out of the way as much as possible did not interfere with airflow of the radiator and it only needed some trimming of the plastic mesh leaf protector (at least that is what I think it is, replacement ordered from the dealer anyway just in case I want to remove the lightbar and put everything back as it was.)

Mounting I used the OWL mounts simply because there is no way I would have enough time to do the wiring, mounting and brackets. Ordering from the states plus the import taxes it was only 50 GBP more than buying straight from the UK, and I got the brackets that saved me at least one hour.

Now the lightbar comes with its own wiring harness, but it’s a huge and bulky thing, I hate extra wires and untidiness.

So, I decided to do my one wiring harness. (that was type 2 fun in the cold). Anyway.

Step 1: Disassembly



You will essentially need only torx for this. Take your time and make sure you do not loose any screws.

First thing to remove is the light shrouds and light surrounds.

Once that is done you have to remove the weather stripping from the front grill, use a panel tool with some tape on it (I scratched my grill, yes, I am annoyed). if the seal comes up without the clip get some needle nose pliers, grasp the clip and apply Constan pressure upwards, it will come out.

To get the bottom 2 screws of the grill you will need to drop the centre section of the bumper.

Once that is done the grill will come off.

OWL have a very nice video of the disassembly . Linked below :

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8nOHwviTq84


Step 2: Light bar install.



I used the included brackets and cut the honeycomb mesh as shown in the picture.

I used 2x zip ties to attach the bottom end of my box cut to the ‘V’ metal behind so it does not flop around.

Made sure the light bar was level.

Removing the ambient air sensor is the best way to be able to tighten the screws of the lightbar .

 

[Tinki]

Step 3: Wiring.



Now this was fun. As I said I needed the light bar to turn on via the high beams.

So, in needed the signal form the aux lights.

I wanted to make a piggy bag harness to split the signal. But I searched high and low for the Molex connector and could not find me male one.

Stedi sells a harness for the grenadier that includes the harness I needed. See below :

Stedi Dual Connector Plug & Play Smart Harness To Suit Ineos Grenadier

DESCRIPTION THE DEVIL IS IN THE DETAILS. The STEDI™ SMART Harness suited for the Ineos Grenadier is for those who are looking to run auxiliary lighting using the factory switch controlling the grille lights. This all-in-one solution is perfectly designed to be unobtrusive with specific crafted...

stediuk.com

So, after that everything was easy.

I ordered another Molex MX64 female + one Aptiva Metri Pack connector for the light bar.

Do not forget to order the pins . Part numbers from mouser above .

Also needed was sealed relay (I used the Lazer one here until mine get here)

To utilise the EXT5 I used a set of Amphenol connectors (interchangeable with Deutch).

So, I begun doing my own wiring harness from the light end going towards the power point.

Power point is next to the air box. I removed the air box for easy access.

Find the pig tails , remove the heath shrink , crimp on some pins and power is sorted . Wrap the whole thing in some DR25 and we are done .

3 cables from light bar (power, neutral, mode changing) 2 cables from aux lights (power and neutral) all bundled together. Run in front of the body mount and then under the light to meet the factory wiring harness under the right fender.

Crimpers used , dont go spending stupid money on these , i scored this pair off Ebay for 50 GBP and they are the 'Brand name' ones apaprently .

 

[Tinki]

Wrap everything in some DR-25 ( Sorry Jean no idea what DR stands for.) and we are done . The connector i am using has the modification that it has a lip and accepts heat shrink over it .

Yes is wonky i know .

Then i used this fancy harness clip to attache the connector . ( Aphenol makes them )

 

[Tinki]

I found an orphan M6 threaded hole behind the air box and used that to mount the relay.(I used the Lazer one here until mine get here) I removed the air box for easy access.

So, I begun doing my own wiring harness from the light end going towards the power point.

3 cables from light bar (power, neutral, mode changing) 2 cables from aux lights (power and neutral) all bundled together. Run in front of the body mount and then under the light to meet the factory wiring harness under the right fender towards the power point an relay .
Then once I was happy with pathway and length, I cut the wire and passed the whole thing through some heat shrink.

Used a piece of rope to get it through the heat shrink .
Then routed it and used harness zip ties along the way to secure it. A lot of empty holes to make use of.

The ones i used above .

Light end of harness.

split with heat shrink boot .

final position

path below main lights

front of body mount zip tie anchor point .

 

[Tinki]

protection of potential abrasion point .


Then I connected everything as below:



4 pin relay



All neutrals on 86

Power form EXT 5 on 30

Signal from aux lights on 85

Power to light bar on 87



Assembly is reverse of disassembly.

IF YOU MADE IT THIS FAR I NEED YOUR HELP:

Now this is the part where I need the help of the hive mind.

I need to get the mode wire that switches the defend light modes on the light bar to the drivers footwell (RHD) anyone has any ideas? I have the safari windows so the opening I was planning of using is in use.

Thanks guys.