Game changer propshaft

[Sven]

I would not expect any guarantees on this product. There are to many variables to account for on different rigs, such as caster, lift, tire size, payload, driving style, driving conditions etc. Aftermarket suppliers cannot perform OE style durability testing because of capital constraints. The test will simply be if owners end up getting a long life from the shaft in mixed conditions on various builds. It would not be unusual to expect 50K miles from a shaft of this style. And if it does wear then a rebuild will be simple.

Yes it's something like that , anyway the genuine one is garanted for what ?!!! Don't work

For the moment we use Terraflex Rzeppa , because it's cheap and easy to find , after I try to find a better one .

We have failure with Terraflex on gearbox side , axle side is really rare

 

[parb]

Sven,

Assume i know very little. And without making it easy for others to clone your work...

What is it that makes this work without vibrations? And how much is the angle on the rzeppa reduced?

 

[TCMColorado]

Sven,

Assume i know very little. And without making it easy for others to clone your work...

What is it that makes this work without vibrations? And how much is the angle on the rzeppa reduced?

I don't want to step over Sven here, but the Rzeppa at the pinion will actually be at a higher angle because the double cardan joint at the TC is considerably longer than the Rzeppa that it replaced. Will this angle increase be enough to cause the boot to fail on the pinion side, we will not know until owners put some miles on this shaft.

 

[Tinerfeño]

This was referring to the first attempt, universal joint at each end, which resulted in vibrations.

I understood the versions.
What kind and in which speeds the basic UJ-UJ propshaft had the vibrations?

 

[Tinerfeño]

Edit : i see you're in Canarias , difficult to came to me in France ! but easy for me to send to you

Yep, here. But it is possible that I will travel through France next summer.

 

[Sven]

Sven,

Assume i know very little. And without making it easy for others to clone your work...

What is it that makes this work without vibrations? And how much is the angle on the rzeppa reduced?

Yes of course they can copy , but they do it with cheap parts , from China or other cheap caster , and they have vibs in a really short time , good parts came from EU and I use them ,that's why my shafts are good , I use those parts for many years in races cars

 

[Sven]

I don't want to step over Sven here, but the Rzeppa at the pinion will actually be at a higher angle because the double cardan joint at the TC is considerably longer than the Rzeppa that it replaced. Will this angle increase be enough to cause the boot to fail on the pinion side, we will not know until owners put some miles on this shaft.

I easily can mesure that , but I don't think I have more than 1 degree of difference.

Anyway, 95% of the failures of the Rzeppa is TC side , and with this shaft you can run the genuine axle angle , you don't have to use Metal Cloak arms like with the DC to DC

 

[parb]

why would the failures be different depending on the side the rzeppa sits on? are they not the same?

 

[Sven]

why would the failures be different depending on the side the rzeppa sits on? are they not the same?

Because the mechanical is turn to the rear , so you have much angle on the TC , but yes they are same

 

[Sven]

Yep, here. But it is possible that I will travel through France next summer.

Ok has you want , but I have a limited stock for the moment so just send me a message if you really need it

 

[Zimm]

why would the failures be different depending on the side the rzeppa sits on? are they not the same?

no. thats been 1/2 the battle. i havent seen a diff side failure posted yet. Thats not to say they arent 10k behind, but, who knows.

 

[Sven]

no. thats been 1/2 the battle. i havent seen a diff side failure posted yet. Thats not to say they arent 10k behind, but, who knows.

I havent see a diff side failure , always TC side

 

[Tenac]

Emailed to get the low down!!! Super interested here on this, crazy hesitant due to my driving higher speeds for long times and do not want vibration causing other issues etc....

 

[KristinaM]

Pulling questions from the Front Drive Shaft Update thread:

I’ll echo @ECrider’s question about rear propshaft replacement. I assume the lack of any caster constraint along with the rear pinion angle ( ~1 degree ) being close enough to zero such that failure isn’t an issue in practice?

Would a double Cardan ( TF side ) to Rzeppa ( RD side ) replacement rear propshaft make sense if failure is a concern?

Thoughts?

 

[KristinaM]

I’m also …quite curious… why there is a mix of socket head and hex bolt fasteners used for mounting - I assume this was an experiment and not what the finished product would use?

 

[Sven]

Pulling questions from the Front Drive Shaft Update thread:

I’ll echo @ECrider’s question about rear propshaft replacement. I assume the lack of any caster constraint along with the rear pinion angle ( ~1 degree ) being close enough to zero such that failure isn’t an issue in practice?

Would a double Cardan ( TF side ) to Rzeppa ( RD side ) replacement rear propshaft make sense if failure is a concern?

Thoughts?

Rear shaft is the next step , but honestly you dont have to much angle on the rear shaft , dont hear about a failure , anyway with the low angle , a keeping the Rzeppa or a simple cardan will do the job easely

 

[Sven]

I’m also …quite curious… why there is a mix of socket head and hex bolt fasteners used for mounting - I assume this was an experiment and not what the finished product would use?

Because the heads are really near the cardan head , it's the most pratical way to do the job , and with the Norlock shims , no way to unscrew

 

[CRH]

Rear shaft is the next step , but honestly you dont have to much angle on the rear shaft , dont hear about a failure , anyway with the low angle , a keeping the Rzeppa or a simple cardan will do the job easely

So how long should the rear system be expected to last without a lift.
In the same vein as the front, will it go with a possible bang.
If we replaced to the system being offered, which comes with no guarantee, anything I were to replace with standard from Ineos will have 12months outside the warranty, or until the end of the warranty.
Not being awkward about asking again, but I have a non-lifted vehicle and I would have thought a warranty would be given. I accept if I start to abuse things then you need to have exclusions but some on here got upset when Ineos refused lifted vehicles. I want to buy something that works but if there are no warranty/guarantee i would be better buying the Ineos and let them keep replacing if failed within the warranty period.
You also mentioned refurbishment after around 50,000 miles (estimate).
This does seem the way to go and I realise that the restraints on testing for a small operation is limited.
Just after more help understanding why I should go this way other than the Ineos option is sh!t.
I am not criticising and am grateful for the work done, I'm just not understanding of any of this as totally new to a proper 4x4
Thanks in advance for any reply

 

[Sven]

So how long should the rear system be expected to last without a lift.
In the same vein as the front, will it go with a possible bang.
If we replaced to the system being offered, which comes with no guarantee, anything I were to replace with standard from Ineos will have 12months outside the warranty, or until the end of the warranty.
Not being awkward about asking again, but I have a non-lifted vehicle and I would have thought a warranty would be given. I accept if I start to abuse things then you need to have exclusions but some on here got upset when Ineos refused lifted vehicles. I want to buy something that works but if there are no warranty/guarantee i would be better buying the Ineos and let them keep replacing if failed within the warranty period.
You also mentioned refurbishment after around 50,000 miles (estimate).
This does seem the way to go and I realise that the restraints on testing for a small operation is limited.
Just after more help understanding why I should go this way other than the Ineos option is sh!t.
I am not criticising and am grateful for the work done, I'm just not understanding of any of this as totally new to a proper 4x4
Thanks in advance for any reply

i think you never broke the rear one in a normal use , just change the Rzeppa when you done a lot of miles

 

[CRH]

i think you never broke the rear one in a normal use , just change the Rzeppa when you done a lot of miles

Sorry, I was referring more to the front than the rear.
I'm on 30,000 miles of mainly motorway driving, if I go to Ineos I get 12 months or end of warranty guarantee on the joint and any damage a failure may cause as I am standard everything. Why should I swap when the time comes. I want to swap to something I feel confident in but if you can't offer any assurance othe than 'it's better' then it isn't reassuring. It sounds good but without some kind of limited warranty then it's just another fingers crossed option