Fuel line failure- diesel

[Levi]

Hi all. While sitting here incredibly inconvenienced, waiting for roadside assist… I figured I should let a few of you know.

Thankfully, I just got back from the bush, and I’m in civilisation. I could smell diesel and looked around to find the problem. From the rear left-hand wheel the brake line runs up near the filter and crosses the diesel line. They touch the constant rubbing has resulted in the diesel line wearing through. And I’m now isolated and stuck waiting for pick up.

I would definitely be checking my vehicle if I were all of you as the way the hoses routed on mine, this is an inevitable problem.

Whilst under the car I’ve also been lucky enough to find an oil leak… Heading on a flatbed back to the dealer today hopefully.

 

[rob88]

Thanks for the heads-up. That's a serious and scary failure.

Definitely check where your brake and fuel lines cross under there. If they are touching, that constant rubbing will wear a hole in the line, just like you experienced. It's a major design flaw.

Hope the dealer fixes both the fuel line and your new oil leak without a hassle. Safe travels after this.

 

[C-Mack]

Hi all. While sitting here incredibly inconvenienced, waiting for roadside assist… I figured I should let a few of you know.

Thankfully, I just got back from the bush, and I’m in civilisation. I could smell diesel and looked around to find the problem. From the rear left-hand wheel the brake line runs up near the filter and crosses the diesel line. They touch the constant rubbing has resulted in the diesel line wearing through. And I’m now isolated and stuck waiting for pick up.

I would definitely be checking my vehicle if I were all of you as the way the hoses routed on mine, this is an inevitable problem.

Whilst under the car I’ve also been lucky enough to find an oil leak… Heading on a flatbed back to the dealer today hopefully.

Sorry to hear about your troubles but I’ve noticed there are plenty of potential spots around the Grenadier where hoses can abrade especially coolant and fuel lines. I’ve taken some time and installed protective wraps around spots where hoses cross each other or are up against a sharp piece of metal. I think IA could have done a better job with their routing and securing of hoses.

I think the brand I used was either TechFlex or DuraFlex. They have wraps in various sizes the you can wrap around hoses/lines without having to disconnect them and they are secured with Velcro down their entire length so are nice and secure.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Sorry to hear about your troubles but I’ve noticed there are plenty of potential spots around the Grenadier where hoses can abrade especially coolant and fuel lines. I’ve taken some time and installed protective wraps around spots where hoses cross each other or are up against a sharp piece of metal. I think IA could have done a better job with their routing and securing of hoses.

I think the brand I used was either TechFlex or DuraFlex. They have wraps in various sizes the you can wrap around hoses/lines without having to disconnect them and they are secured with Velcro down their entire length so are nice and secure.

Thanks, how about doing a write up and putting it in the Resources section. with the brand you used plus the sizes you chose.

 

[Skydance]

Hi all. While sitting here incredibly inconvenienced, waiting for roadside assist… I figured I should let a few of you know.

Thankfully, I just got back from the bush, and I’m in civilisation. I could smell diesel and looked around to find the problem. From the rear left-hand wheel the brake line runs up near the filter and crosses the diesel line. They touch the constant rubbing has resulted in the diesel line wearing through. And I’m now isolated and stuck waiting for pick up.

I would definitely be checking my vehicle if I were all of you as the way the hoses routed on mine, this is an inevitable problem.

Whilst under the car I’ve also been lucky enough to find an oil leak… Heading on a flatbed back to the dealer today hopefully.

Thank you. Had a look and whilst mine wasn’t touching. I suspect yours maybe missing a clip which secures brake line but thanks for the heads up because I discovered something maybe worthwhile sharing so people can check. Same area, rear passenger radius bolt ABS wire was rubbing against the bolt. I’ve now re secured with a zip tie and tidied up the fuel line with a zip tie and foam backing so it doesn’t rub

 

[C-Mack]

Thanks, how about doing a write up and putting it in the Resources section. with the brand you used plus the sizes you chose.

There are enough routing differences between Diesel and Petrol models I don’t know if I could cover everything in a write up (mine is Petrol). But what I would suggest is breaking the inspection into quadrants. Left front, right front, firewall area, either side of transmission tunnel underneath, left and right side of engine compartment, transfer case cable, left and right rear axle, each wheel well, etc….

Most of the issues are with the coolant hoses right at the front and the routings which go out to each radiator in the bumper but as others are noticing, ABS wires, fuel lines and anything that is close to or attached to the axles as they articulate are worth inspecting. Not uncommon for clips or cable ties to go missing with vibrations and vehicle flexing off-road.

Most of the smaller coolant hoses are 25mm I believe so any wrap which covers that size should work. Biggest thing is looking for missing or weak clips and like others are doing replacing with zip-ties or other automotive specific clips.

Here is a link to the website you can buy Durawrap in multiple different sizes: https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/du...MI9bSM-4SQkAMVIztECB1J8BQgEAAYASAAEgLycPD_BwE

 

[Levi]

There are enough routing differences between Diesel and Petrol models I don’t know if I could cover everything in a write up (mine is Petrol). But what I would suggest is breaking the inspection into quadrants. Left front, right front, firewall area, either side of transmission tunnel underneath, left and right side of engine compartment, transfer case cable, left and right rear axle, each wheel well, etc….

Most of the issues are with the coolant hoses right at the front and the routings which go out to each radiator in the bumper but as others are noticing, ABS wires, fuel lines and anything that is close to or attached to the axles as they articulate are worth inspecting. Not uncommon for clips or cable ties to go missing with vibrations and vehicle flexing off-road.

Most of the smaller coolant hoses are 25mm I believe so any wrap which covers that size should work. Biggest thing is looking for missing or weak clips and like others are doing replacing with zip-ties or other automotive specific clips.

Here is a link to the website you can buy Durawrap in multiple different sizes: https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/du...MI9bSM-4SQkAMVIztECB1J8BQgEAAYASAAEgLycPD_BwE

Good information. thank you!

It feels like this really should be something that a consumer does not need to carry out... however, sadly it is likely something we all need to do.

I am still waiting on my vehicle to make it back to the dealer, i will keep you all posted.

 

[Levi]

Hi Team,

Well, I got my car back… they replaced the damaged fuel line, but this is the “solution” fitted to stop it happening again (video link here). It's a must watch for good humor......

I honestly don’t know where to start with this one — has anyone else received a fix like this? It’s disappointing, especially since the vehicle was also back for repeat warranty issues.

I can (and will) install a proper permanent solution based on the great suggestions shared here. It’s just frustrating that owners are having to engineer fixes ourselves. The dealers and INEOS could learn a lot from the community’s practical knowledge.

If you’re heading in for repairs, check the work carefully afterwards. And to all Quartermaster owners — make sure your (diesel) fuel lines are properly protected before you end up with a failure like mine. I was lucky to get out of the bush before it let go.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Hi Team,

Well, I got my car back… they replaced the damaged fuel line, but this is the “solution” fitted to stop it happening again (video link here). It's a must watch for good humor......

I honestly don’t know where to start with this one — has anyone else received a fix like this? It’s disappointing, especially since the vehicle was also back for repeat warranty issues.

I can (and will) install a proper permanent solution based on the great suggestions shared here. It’s just frustrating that owners are having to engineer fixes ourselves. The dealers and INEOS could learn a lot from the community’s practical knowledge.

If you’re heading in for repairs, check the work carefully afterwards. And to all Quartermaster owners — make sure your (diesel) fuel lines are properly protected before you end up with a failure like mine. I was lucky to get out of the bush before it let go.

Where exactly are these lines on the diesel model? I could not tell from the video you posted. I can also check if the issue is diesel IG and QM or just QM.

Thanks for the feedback. I am still trying to find an AU source of the Durawrap mentioned above. I got side tracked. I am now getting ready to go to GrenX on Sunday, for 3 days next week.

Another option maybe spiral wrap which Euro Flo are using for their under car armour. Look at their video (at 4:40):

View: https://youtu.be/Gk_UdiCyVN0?t=280

 

[Clark Kent]

Hi Team,

Well, I got my car back… they replaced the damaged fuel line, but this is the “solution” fitted to stop it happening again (video link here). It's a must watch for good humor......

I honestly don’t know where to start with this one — has anyone else received a fix like this? It’s disappointing, especially since the vehicle was also back for repeat warranty issues.

I can (and will) install a proper permanent solution based on the great suggestions shared here. It’s just frustrating that owners are having to engineer fixes ourselves. The dealers and INEOS could learn a lot from the community’s practical knowledge.

If you’re heading in for repairs, check the work carefully afterwards. And to all Quartermaster owners — make sure your (diesel) fuel lines are properly protected before you end up with a failure like mine. I was lucky to get out of the bush before it let go.

Workshop foreman to 2nd year apprentice: "After you replace that hose put something around it to give it a bit of protection."
Apprentice: "No worries, I'll find something"

I'm not being harsh. That seems to be the way it's done. The low hanging fruit jobs get assigned to the lowest cost resource, including apprentices. The higher skilled and non-warranty (full cost) diagnostic jobs go to the one or two remaining techs that haven't yet gone to the mines to drive a truck and earn 2-3 times more money.
It doesn't help when OEMs like IA set the repair time and labour rate for warranty work. They must do that, but it rarely covers the actual time (including accessing their sloth-speed documentation portal) and the dealer is typically reimbursed at about 40-50% of the workshop's retail rate for skilled labour. Don't ever be surprised if your warranty job doesn't seem to be getting any priority from the service manager in a multi-brand dealership, and especially towards the end of the month when they have jobs to close, targets to hit and a bonus to earn.
Then there is fixed cost or included cost servicing packages that are modern marketing tools in disguise (like long warranties). The workshop gets paid a pittance and given bugger all time to do the services. The manufacturer and dealer get the sale so they're happy. The service managers hate it.

I am making none of this up. That's just the reality in a commercial multi-brand workshop. It's also part of the reason that IA are dropping the agency model in Australia. Read the industry article here.

 

[Clark Kent]

Where exactly are these lines on the diesel model? I could not tell from the video you posted. I can also check if the issue is diesel IG and QM or just QM.

Thanks for the feedback. I am still trying to find an AU source of the Durawrap mentioned above. I got side tracked. I am now getting ready to go to GrenX on Sunday, for 3 days next week.

Another option maybe spiral wrap which Euro Flo are using for their under car armour. Look at their video (at 4:40):

View: https://youtu.be/Gk_UdiCyVN0?t=280

You can also use something like Tesa 51036 wiring harness tape for small crossovers like this. That's an adhesive tape with high abrasion and temperature resistance.
Don't get the flocked cloth tape. That's for vibration and noise isolation and is not for high temperature areas.
CT-ALS sell it or just Google wiring harness tape. https://www.ctals.com.au/collection...emp-and-abrasion-pet-150-c-19mm-25m-roll-blk?

Put a few wraps of tape around one hose to create a cushion. Then put a few wraps of tape around both hoses to hold them together. Apply a cable tie if neither hose needs to slide over the other.
If there is movement between hoses apply a suitable length strip along both hoses to create a wear surface between contact points. Don't cable tie them together. Try to increase the separation by repositioning one or both.

There is better and more permanent fixes using P clips and standoffs but this is good for quick fixes.

 

[Logsplitter]

You can also use something like Tesa 51036 wiring harness tape for small crossovers like this. That's an adhesive tape with high abrasion and temperature resistance.
Don't get the flocked cloth tape. That's for vibration and noise isolation and is not for high temperature areas.
CT-ALS sell it or just Google wiring harness tape. https://www.ctals.com.au/collection...emp-and-abrasion-pet-150-c-19mm-25m-roll-blk?

Put a few wraps of tape around one hose to create a cushion. Then put a few wraps of tape around both hoses to hold them together. Apply a cable tie if neither hose needs to slide over the other.
If there is movement between hoses apply a suitable length strip along both hoses to create a wear surface between contact points. Don't cable tie them together. Try to increase the separation by repositioning one or both.

There is better and more permanent fixes using P clips and standoffs but this is good for quick fixes.

I used Velcro tape but have no idea if it is heat resistant

 

[NixGrenadier2023]

Good information. thank you!

It feels like this really should be something that a consumer does not need to carry out... however, sadly it is likely something we all need to do.

I am still waiting on my vehicle to make it back to the dealer, i will keep you all posted.

Was that fix by 4x4Garage?

 

[Clark Kent]

I used Velcro tape but have no idea if it is heat resistant

Is that to hold your dodgy ankle together
Velcro is good to about 260C so really only becomes an issue near hot exhausts, etc. It's fine for this sort of fix. The loop side (soft side) is also good for stopping rattles if there is enough gap to be able to jam it in.

 

[Logsplitter]

Is that to hold your dodgy ankle together
Velcro is good to about 260C so really only becomes an issue near hot exhausts, etc. It's fine for this sort of fix. The loop side (soft side) is also good for stopping rattles if there is enough gap to be able to jam it in.

Ankle is holding up quite well after the steroid injections as long as I don’t walk too far. Lack of exercise and wonderful food, beer and wine means I’ll be as fat and lazy as a pig when I return home