FITTING 20 INCH LED LIGHTBAR TO THE ROO BAR

[TheDocAUS]

WHAT YOU NEED

1. STEDI Hex brackets (choose size 48 to 53mm). The STEDI hex bracket came with a Torx Security key to tighten the bolts in the hex bracket. Not sure of the size because I could not get my Torx Security bits to fit properly. The brackets come with three M6 bolts of different sizes and types. One pair was the correct length to use in my setup. I also used a Nord Lock washer and a flat washer on the M6 bolt. The Nord Lock washer ensures corrugations do not loosen the bolts.
2. Lightforce Viper 20-inch lightbar (single or double row of LEDs). The Viper comes with side mount and slide brackets.
3. Two standard M6 nuts. Only a standard M6 nut fitted into the hex bracket slot, a M6 Nylon Lock Nut was too thick. The hex bracket only came with Nylon Lock Nuts. See also point 1 below under FITTING.
4. Relay, tools and wiring.
5. The Viper had a 2 pin Deutsch DT plug attached and a wiring loom. The power came from the Grenadier's 10 amp wire ends under the bonnet. The auto electrician changed the loom and added a relay and integrated it into the car. I never saw the modified loom. The relay turns on the lights when it senses current to the high beam on your headlights.

Laws in News South Wales require lightbars to be fitted to the underside of the Roo Bar hoop, not above it. You have much more flexibility if you can mount it above the Roo Boo, but at increased risk to pedestrians.

FITTING

1. Affix with the Lightforce slide mounts that attach to the rear of the lightbar (not the ends which use brackets – the Ligthtforce comes with both options supplied) You need to reverse the way the bolts normally insert into the hex bracket. You may need to trim the bolt's length so it does not protrude pass the width of the bracket onto the Roo Bar. Adding two washers on the M6 bolt was enough so the bolt did not protrude, in my case. I used a Nord Locker washer, flat washer and a standard M6 nut.
2. Affix the slide brackets to the bottom half of both hex brackets. The nut must go inside the hex bracket slot, not the bolt head as normal. The image below of the slide bracket shows the correct orientation for inserting the bolt into the hex bracket.
3. Attach the slide brackets to the lightbar. Tighten bolts onto the slide brackets, after spacing them correctly (I placed then 100mm in from each end of the lightbar). Just hand tighten the bolts and check the angle of the lightbar fitted under the Roo Bar, adjust position of slide brackets if needed. You do have some additional adjustment with the way you affix the hex bracket to the Roo Bar.
4. Attach hex brackets to the Roo Bar, check it is centered correctly. Tighten all 8 bolts in the hex brackets. TIP: when tightening the Torx Security bolts on the hex bracket, I would tighten a bolt two turns and then go around and do the same to all the bolts. If you tighten one bolt too much, it can result in another becoming loose. The described approach minimised that effect.
5. Wire up the lightbar or call ORS (Sydney based) and have then do it for you.

The Single Row Viper Lightbar lines up nicely with the grille cross support to minimise disruption to the air flow.

I would have saved a lot time if I had remembered Cameron had posted his setup many months ago (see image below), instead of having to work it out myself, with some wiring help from ORS.

ANOTHER OPTION: If you do not have a winch, fitting the 20-inch Viper down on the bumper would be another option. Or if you do have a winch, be very careful about drilling holes in the bumper. The end brackets could be used for mounting in this position.

Slide Mount (Source: Lightforce website)


Blue protective film still on the Viper in these images. It was the test fit up and the hex brackets are not centered precisely.

After fitting


Cameron's (@CBN) double row here:

 

[Beowulf]

I like the low profile look of the single row. Thank you for the write up.

 

[DaveB]

WHAT YOU NEED

1. STEDI Hex brackets (size 48 to 53mm);
2. Lightforce Viper 20-inch lightbar (single or double row of LEDs);
3. Relay, tools and wiring.

My single row 20 inch Lighforce Viper lightbar was powered from the 10 amp circuit under the bonnet, but the relay needs to turn on the lights when it senses current to the high beam on your headlights.

Laws in News South Wales require lightbars to be fitted to the underside of the Roo Bar hoop, not above it. You have much more flexibility if you can mount it above the Roo Boo, but at increased risk to pedestrians.

FITTING

1. Affix with the Lightforce slide mounts that attach to the rear of the lightbar (not the ends which use brackets – the Ligthtforce comes with both options supplied). You need to reverse the way the bolts normally insert into the hex bracket. You may need to trim the length of the bolt so it does not protrude pass the width of the bracket onto the Roo Bar. A lock washer on the bolt was enough so the bolt did not protrude, in my case.
2. Affix the slide brackets to the bottom half of both hex brackets. The nut must go inside the hex bracket slot, not the bolt head as normal. The image below of the slide bracket shows the correct orientation for inserting the bolt into the hex bracket.
3. Attach the slide brackets to the lightbar. Tighten bolts onto the slide brackets, after spacing them correctly (I placed then 100mm in from each end of the lightbar). Just hand tighten the bolts and check the angle of th lightbar fitted under the Roo Ba, adjust position of slide brackets if needed. You do have some additional adjustment with the way you affix the hex bracket o the Roo Bar.
4. Attach hex brackets to the Roo Bar, check it is centered correctly. Tighten all 8 bolts in the hex brackets.
5. Wire up the lightbar or call ORS (Sydney based) and have then do it for you.

The Single Row Viper Lightbar lines up nicely with the grille cross support to minimise disruption to the air flow.

I would have saved a lot time if I had remembered Cameron had posted his setup many months ago (see image below), instead of having to work it out myself, with some wiring help from ORS.

Slide Mount (Source: Lightforce website)
View attachment 7856124

Blue protective film still on the Viper in these images.

Cameron's (@CBN) double row here:

I haven't tried it yet but I liked the look of the Lazerlamps Linear to go at the top of the bar and wired to high beam.
It has a very similar curve/profile to the bar so should be able to mount high and close.
My thoughts are to just use the wiring at the back of the round lights and leave them in place but disconnected.
That would allow use of the roof switch and also high beam link.
It is a wide angle fitting but I don't need to see 5 kms down the road.
I am more interested with what is on the side of the road about 250 metres ahead.
It is a lot more expensive than the Lightforce product however.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HLwTgrQqkM&t=6s

Linear-24 Elite

Representing the very best in slimline auxiliary high beam driving lights, the Linear range utilises a combination of highly efficient 3W LEDs and vacuum-metallised wide optics to deliver a perfectly tuned beam pattern for everyday road use. Measuring just 40mm in height, the Linear range is an...

www.lazerlamps.com.au

 

[TheDocAUS]

I haven't tried it yet but I liked the look of the Lazerlamps Linear to go at the top of the bar and wired to high beam.
It has a very similar curve/profile to the bar so should be able to mount high and close.
My thoughts are to just use the wiring at the back of the round lights and leave them in place but disconnected.
That would allow use of the roof switch and also high beam link.
It is a wide angle fitting but I don't need to see 5 kms down the road.
I am more interested with what is on the side of the road about 250 metres ahead.
It is a lot more expensive than the Lightforce product however.
View attachment 7856130
View attachment 7856131View attachment 7856132

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HLwTgrQqkM&t=6s

Linear-24 Elite

Representing the very best in slimline auxiliary high beam driving lights, the Linear range utilises a combination of highly efficient 3W LEDs and vacuum-metallised wide optics to deliver a perfectly tuned beam pattern for everyday road use. Measuring just 40mm in height, the Linear range is an...

www.lazerlamps.com.au

I looked at the Laser Lamps, but they cost too much and it does not work if you can only use end brackets (for a 20 inch bar under the hoop).

Any power draw on the round light circuits causes them to stop working. So it may not work - just an observation from the auto electrician (as he tried it on another Grenadier). No idea what would happen if you just power the lightbar instead and disconnect the round lights from the circuit. The way he was talking it is very sensitive to changes.

 

[DaveB]

I looked at the Laser Lamps, but they cost too much and it does not work if you can only use end brackets (for a 20 inch bar under the hoop).

Any power draw on the round light circuits causes them to stop working. So it may not work - just an observation from the auto electrician (as he tried it on another Grenadier).

Yes the Lazerlamps brackets are useless.
I was planning on disconnecting the round lights so they don't work, but can easily be restored if wanted later.
Unless they have some kind of smart feedback to the vehicle CPU then there should be no difference.
The light bar is 13.3 amps or 188 Watts and I can't find anywhere the specs on the standard Grenadier Aux lights.
Easy to insert a relay anyway and the lightbar is supplied with one.
I originally trained in auto electrical as part of my electrical trade with the Department of Civil Aviation, but that was on fire tenders and rescue boats at Sydney airport.
It was a very long time ago and vehicles are very different now. No CANBUS, CPU's or central monitoring systems back then.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Just letting you know they are skittish.

The Laser Lamp will look good under the hoop.

 

[DaveB]

Just letting you know they are skittish.

The Laser Lamp will look good under the hoop.

Yes probably have some kind of smarts to ruin my plan.
My new work Iphone insists on constantly telling me the screen is not original genuine part

 

[TheDocAUS]

Just revised WHAT YOU NEED to give more information.