Dinitrol underbody protection. Anyone used this?

[AWo]

Yes, I do/did. I did the work on my own on our Hilux.



AWo

 

[Gwynne]

I've my car booked in at South West Rust Proofing. They've been very helpful and have said I can discuss the works with them when I arrive.

Can anyone advise what I need to ask them to do: For example, remove underbody protection, mask pipes and rubber connectors etc etc.

An underbody treatment ' scope' would be perfect if anyone has access to such a thing.

 

[AWo]

You should take a car to a workshop which knows all the places of that car modell to be protected, so nothing will be left out.

If they do a Grenadier for the first time, you need to figure that out on your own, maybe with an experienced guy from the work shop, what to protect.

You pay it and nect time other customers are better off, as the workshop guys got educated at your car.

AWo

 

[landmannnn]

I've my car booked in at South West Rust Proofing. They've been very helpful and have said I can discuss the works with them when I arrive.

Can anyone advise what I need to ask them to do: For example, remove underbody protection, mask pipes and rubber connectors etc etc.

An underbody treatment ' scope' would be perfect if anyone has access to such a thing.

There's quite a lot to think about.
What do you want treated? Chassis, underside of the body, axles, suspension components, underside of wings, cavity wax doors and boot etc etc.

You will need them to remove the guards under the fuel tank and the front and rear protection.

You will need them to mask the engine, transmission, wiring and exhaust. I expect this is automatically done.

The plastic wheel arch inners will need to come off (and the wheels if you want the suspension done.)

You need to discuss what will be done with the fuel and brake lines and specific areas such as the fuel filter and above the fuel tank.

You will also need to discuss if the vehicle is going off road a lot, what colour treatment and any holes they might need to make (and plug afterwards)

 

[Chadd7]

I used to spray a full can of Fluid Film under my Jeep before snow season every year. $6

 

[OkGo]

if you want to - give Rob a call at krown.co.uk - its a clear spray on solution, that has had good results ( for me, and others ); plus he really knows what he is doing. He wont be asking you want to look at and where / how.

 

[AWo]

I used to spray a full can of Fluid Film under my Jeep before snow season every year. $6

That is fine, but that is not a full rust protection. There is more than the latter chassis and the bottom of the car....

As you mentioned, Fluid Film is great but the viscosity is too low to last. Other systems are more reliable, especially if you have to remove and re-mount things to protect certain areas. Then you want to have something which lasts very much longer.

AWo

 

[AWo]

How to handle the Dinitrol stuff:

1. You spray that WD40 like Dinitrol ML on every surface you want to protect. Be generous. Wear eye and respiratory protection. Check my picture above. We needed to protect the surrounding stuff with plastic sheets. Let it dry 48 h.
2. To stabilze that first spray and to make it last long go and spray go ahead and put Dinitrol 3642W over all the protected surfaces. I use brown for cavities and wheel houses and the inside of the ladder frame.
3. I used the black 3642W for the outside of the ladder frame. No ML here.

AWo

 

[MartinK]

I always do my own!
Even if the body shell is galvanised, all of the ancillaries (suspension, axles, subframes) are usually just painted black.
I did my Classic Defender 110 14 years ago, and still rust-free:

It's awkward to do yourself, and it does take a couple of days to get in every nook and cranny. Surface wax (Dinitrol) on the outer faces, and plenty of Cavity Wax inside all of the box sections.
You can also use ACF-50 or XCP Rust Blocker on all the bright work (incl the engine bay but keep away from belts)
Easier and cheaper if you have a compressor, as you can just buy the 1L cans instead of aerosols.
Lanoguard is a good product for interim application over anything that needs touching-up
Lanoguard and ACF on all brake components - I have never had a rotten brake pipe on any of my vehicles.

I've done all the rear subframe on my Merc GLC (the body is galv, but the subframe rusts after 10 years if you don't take preventative measures
Also my Hymer
All cars and trucks in my house get done
Definitely worth it if the car's a "keeper"
BTW the 110 is up for sale....message if you are interested

 

[AWo]

And if there would be rust, you wouldn't see it....

AWo

 

[MartinK]

And if there would be rust, you wouldn't see it....

AWo

That's the good thing about underbody WAX instead of traditional underseal...the wax doesn't hide corrosion like underseal did....

 

[Gwynne]

Hi gents, was trawling through the forums to find a rust proofing solution for mine and decided to have the dinitrol treatment at Rustec in Wiltshire. Couldn't be happier. They left no stone unturned and produced a really cracking job. The preparation was done to a great standard and they're all a really nice set of blokes! www.rustec.co.uk
Vehicle Rust Proofing Swindon Wiltshire | Rustec https://share.google/i3jMxbMEcymrVjkh0

Could you share photos of before and after? Just wondering if they coated the brake and fuel pipes and also the suspension springs?

 

[MartinK]

Personally for the suspension springs I would use Lanoguard, as it flexes easily.
For brake pipes, clear Dinitrol, Waxoyl, or XCP
see:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gNaKvJQh1Q&t=683s

 

[Logsplitter]

Personally for the suspension springs I would use Lanoguard, as it flexes easily.
For brake pipes, clear Dinitrol wax, or XCP
see:

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_gNaKvJQh1Q&t=683s

I have the Lanoguard ready to do my Grenadier at some point. Also if I notice I any surface rust on parts that have been abraded by dirt roads I’ll use rust converter on those spots first.

 

[MartinK]

I have the Lanoguard ready to do my Grenadier at some point. Also if I notice I any surface rust on parts that have been abraded by dirt roads I’ll use rust converter on those spots first

Fertan is a really good rust converter IMO.... just a personal recommendation

Fertan Rust Converter

The purpose of Fertan Rust Converter (FRC) is to provide you with all the benefits a treatment more thorough than shot blasting with no surface damage and no material loss. The advantage is that it can be achieved by just unscrewing the top of the…

www.fertan.co.uk

 

[Logsplitter]

Fertan is a really good rust converter IMO.... just a personal recommendation

Fertan Rust Converter

The purpose of Fertan Rust Converter (FRC) is to provide you with all the benefits a treatment more thorough than shot blasting with no surface damage and no material loss. The advantage is that it can be achieved by just unscrewing the top of the…

www.fertan.co.uk

Thanks. I’m sure they are all equally effective. I use the Jenolite rust converter

 

[landmannnn]

Slightly controversial, rust converters are not as effective as the marketing would suggest.

Containing phosphoric and/or tannic acid, they react with the top layer of rust to create an inert layer.

However, the converters do not penetrate. If you scrape off the blue/black layer, the rust is still there.

The issue being that underbody sprays will normally penetrate rust as far as the base metal, but they cannot penetrate the inert layer from using rust converters.

I'm not saying they are snake oil, but not as effective as you would hope them to be.

 

[AWo]

If there is a small thins rust film, the best to do is using Owatrol. Apply it 3 times (spray or paint= to the rust. The rust is needed, it doesn't stick on coated, painted fine surfaces. Owatrol creeps extremly well into all parts and even into stacked rust. It isolates the surface from oxygen permanentely and thereby it stops rust. It gets solid but stay flexible. You can apply paint to it. I recommend to use Brantho Korrux 3in1, which is a very rigid 1K-coating (50% solid particles in the spray!). You also can stay in the family by using Ovagrundol O.H. chassis coating. If you want to go with a 2k-coating on Owatrol use Owatrol CIP as a separating layer.

If you want to protect and seal folds, you can use Owatrol, as well, even if the surface is fine and no rust is present. I put Owatrol in every fold inside our Defenders (base plat eto side walls etc). To prevent water coming in and staying the the folds. Apply it and wipe away what is too much. It cerates a thin yellow transparent coating.

Use Fertan if there is more serious rust and you may need to do a repair. Fertan also protects. I restored already things by convertig rust with Fertan and then I applied Brantho Korrux 3in1. Works very well. There is also Fertan chassis protection available. You can put many coatings on Fertan rust converter.

AWo

 

[Skydance]

I have the Lanoguard ready to do my Grenadier at some point. Also if I notice I any surface rust on parts that have been abraded by dirt roads I’ll use rust converter on those spots first.

I did the lazy way. I have a bottle of Lanoguard, poured out into a containers and painted it on all the sub frame and black metal parts including the side steps. Works well for amateur.

 

[OkGo]

If you have rust, may as well grind it back to metal. It will only add a little bit more time, and given how new the G is, unlikely to have layers of rust