CTEK SMARTPASS 120S and 250SE DC to DC charger basic features and install information

[Jean Mercier]

Today I finally installed my CTEK D250SE DC/DC battery charger in parallel with the Smartpass 120S.

I thought I was well prepared, but it took me some 4 hours to finish the job, due to some unexpected issues.

I had already prepared a “BAS” plate (see posts above at the beginning of this thread), but ooh surprise , in my 5 seat Trialmaster the space is different compared to an utilitarian vehicle, I wasn’t aware.
The plate got stuck at the places of the arrows:


And, the exit of the wire loom for the smart alternator and so on got stuck against one of the pillars of the back seat if trying to use the original drilled holes, see next picture of the final result.


Therefore, I had to modify slightly (trial and error) my plate.


But OK, I got it installed, and it seems to work.

I understand now why BlackSheep made another design for the plate (see also somewhere in this thread a picture)! I should have studied a lot better the posted pictures!

I had the diff lock warnings, and shortly a mistake error on my Smartpass, as others experienced, but 10 m driving forward cleared the diff lock message, and after some minutes the error of the Smartpass disappeared too.

Everything seems normal some hours later, see my battery monitor graph, where you can see when I disconnected my main battery.


Any comment or suggestion or warning is welcome

Thanks to everybody who did it previously, and from whom I got the inspiration.

 

[das mo]

Today I finally installed my CTEK D250SE DC/DC battery charger in parallel with the Smartpass 120S.

I thought I was well prepared, but it took me some 4 hours to finish the job, due to some unexpected issues.

I had already prepared a “BAS” plate (see posts above at the beginning of this thread), but ooh surprise , in my 5 seat Trialmaster the space is different compared to an utilitarian vehicle, I wasn’t aware.
The plate got stuck at the places of the arrows:
View attachment 7842895

And, the exit of the wire loom for the smart alternator and so on got stuck against one of the pillars of the back seat if trying to use the original drilled holes, see next picture of the final result.
View attachment 7842896

Therefore, I had to modify slightly (trial and error) my plate.
View attachment 7842897

But OK, I got it installed, and it seems to work.

I understand now why BlackSheep made another design for the plate (see also somewhere in this thread a picture)! I should have studied a lot better the posted pictures!

I had the diff lock warnings, and shortly a mistake error on my Smartpass, as others experienced, but 10 m driving forward cleared the diff lock message, and after some minutes the error of the Smartpass disappeared too.

Everything seems normal some hours later, see my battery monitor graph, where you can see when I disconnected my main battery.
View attachment 7842898

Any comment or suggestion or warning is welcome

Thanks to everybody who did it previously, and from whom I got the inspiration.

Thanks for sharing.
I still have this coming up.
250 purchased months ago.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Thanks for sharing.
I still have this coming up.
250 purchased months ago.

Yes, mine was also sitting on the shelf since several months

 

[minidok]

Are you going to connect the smart generator sense (red small wire of ctek devices) to the fuse box too?

I did connect both ctek devices. Still trying to find out the influence to the system and max current while charging.

 

[ECrider]

Thanks for sharing.
I still have this coming up.
250 purchased months ago.

Likewise.
Will get around to it one day.
Someone in another thread mentioned it's good practice to leave the boot doors open for 15 minutes and wait for the car to 'sleep' before disconnecting the batteries. I'll try it, can do no harm.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Are you going to connect the smart generator sense (red small wire of ctek devices) to the fuse box too?

I did connect both ctek devices. Still trying to find out the influence to the system and max current while charging.

For the time being I will not do it, as it has, as far as I know, not been confirmed that it is a smart generator.

 

[bakepl]

For the time being I will not do it, as it has, as far as I know, not been confirmed that it is a smart generator.

Response from Ctek for vehicles in general was - if you are unsure of smart alternator or not, connect the wire. I connected my 250 sense wire months ago and everything works as described.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Response from Ctek for vehicles in general was - if you are unsure of smart alternator or not, connect the wire. I connected my 250 sense wire months ago and everything works as described.

Did you connect it to an ignition feed? And where?
And thanks for reminding me this, I forgot, but indeed! That's what they answered.

 

[minidok]

Did you connect it to an ignition feed? And where?
And thanks for reminding me this, I forgot, but indeed! That's what they answered.

I did use the mini fuse FI38 from interior electrical center (fusebox under the rear seat) where I injected a pigypack bringing the +12V (ignition on only) to the sense point at CTEK devices.

 

[bakepl]

Did you connect it to an ignition feed? And where?
And thanks for reminding me this, I forgot, but indeed! That's what they answered.

Seems so long ago Jean, maybe piggybacked a fuse but more likely used the hot wire (ignition on) under the rear seat that is put aside for the compressor - and subsequently added a low amp fuse for the ctek from this. I think you have already used this wire for your compressor? cheers Paul

 

[minidok]

Seems so long ago Jean, maybe piggybacked a fuse but more likely used the hot wire (ignition on) under the rear seat that is put aside for the compressor - and subsequently added a low amp fuse for the ctek from this. I think you have already used this wire for your compressor? cheers Paul

Good point @bakepl , would have been easier with the hot wire

 

[Jean Mercier]

Seems so long ago Jean, maybe piggybacked a fuse but more likely used the hot wire (ignition on) under the rear seat that is put aside for the compressor - and subsequently added a low amp fuse for the ctek from this. I think you have already used this wire for your compressor? cheers Paul

Yes, I used it for the compressor

 

[nuclearmonkey]

Yes, I used it for the compressor

Hi Jean - I'm wondering if you've seen a noticeable difference with how your batteries are charging now that you've installed the 250SE compared to before the install? If I remember, you've been monitoring their charge rates / status for some time now prior.

 

[Jean Mercier]

Hi Jean - I'm wondering if you've seen a noticeable difference with how your batteries are charging now that you've installed the 250SE compared to before the install? If I remember, you've been monitoring their charge rates / status for some time now prior.

I have only a voltage measurement system with historical graphs, and at first sight I don't see any difference.

 

[nuclearmonkey]

I have only a voltage measurement system with historical graphs, and at first sight I don't see any difference.

Appreciate it! And other than solar, the basic function of adding the 250se to the system is to deliver a charge request from the alternator even as the starting battery is full so to be able to completely charge the auxiliary? (Want to make sure I understand what it's adding over the SmartPass other than the obvious solar capability)

 

[Gary]

They are the wires. Here is the link to what each wire does here. Thanks to @Highwayman

Thanks for all the useful info.
I'm still hunting for my 10A, EXT 1 outlet location under the bonnet. Can someone put me out of my misery.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Thanks for all the useful info.
I'm still hunting for my 10A, EXT 1 outlet location under the bonnet. Can someone put me out of my misery.

Even if you know where they are, they can still hide from you. There are pictures on these wire ends in the forum. If I find the link I will post it.

EDIT: found it, look here and the following post.

 

[globalgregors]

Thanks for all the useful info.
I'm still hunting for my 10A, EXT 1 outlet location under the bonnet. Can someone put me out of my misery.

I found it easiest to remove the airbox cover, which was obscuring it.
You can also find it by touch if you run your hand along the loom back towards the firewall.

 

[TheDocAUS]

I found it easiest to remove the airbox cover, which was obscuring it.
You can also find it by touch if you run your hand along the loom back towards the firewall.

Often the wire ends are taped with black plastic tape, while black fabric tape is on the other parts of the wiring loom. Finding the black plastic tape helps you home in on the wire ends. The black plastic tape is just taping the wire ends to the loom.

 

[TheDocAUS]

My setup using the CTEK 120S mated to the 250SE is complete.

XHQ TOWING PACK IN DETAIL*
Expedition HQ package (the Gold Coast INEOS Dealer) replaced the 13 pin Euro plug with a 7/12 pin flat pin plug and 2 Anderson plugs (one for the caravan/trailer and one for the solar blanket). This is what the rear now looks like:

The XHQ package is not spliced into the INEOS electrics, but uses its own control box, shown here:



The fuse labelled Anderson, bottom centre, is for the two Anderson plugs for the fridge running off the AUX battery (see more below). The small circuit breaker top right (just below the AUX Battery label) is for the REDARC TowPro and the large 50 amp circuit breaker, to the left, is for the XHQ Control Box.

In a 5 seater Grenadier the control box fits next to the CTEK 120S. The CTEK 250SE then fits on top of the XHQ control unit. There is not enough vertical room in the 2 seater for the CTEK 250SE to be mounted on top, so an alternate place was found, near the aux battery. The metal lid in the 2 seater leaves less room above the XHQ control unit for the CTEK 25OSE than the seats in the 5 seater model.

In my 2 seater the CTEK 250SE was mounted on a Black Sheep charger bracket I already had (the two solar Anderson plugs are attached the CTEK 250SE's solar inputs. The solar input LED is not on as no solar panel was attached when the photo was taken):



In addition, Anderson plugs were installed into the side of the battery box and into the area near the jack. Here is the passenger side of the battery box, just below the lid hinge:



The Anderson plug near the jack will have this plugged into it, which will be mounted next to the drawers (on the drawer side panel). I made these up and the third socket will be powered from the rear 12 volt socket.

Out of picture is the Anderson plug that will fit into the jack area Anderson plug.

*FYI: the work I had done included more work than just the standard XHQ Package No 2.

DRAWERS, WATER TANK, BED EXTENSION NEXT
The ORS drawers, water tank, bed extension and dual ARB air compressor get installed shortly after Easter. The double drawers will look similar to these drawers (sorry no INEOS image on the ORS website). Behind the drawers is the water tank and from their to the cargo carrier is the bed extension.


My ORS water tank will have some custom work but will look something like this. The water nozzle is accessible on passenger's side, gravity fed, but you can have a 12 volt water pump.