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Australasia Caravan towing (OZ)

Local time
6:49 AM
Joined
Jun 9, 2025
Messages
2
Location
Melbourne
I am very seriously looking at the grenadier to replace my BT50.
Just want to ask a few questions to help me with the decision:
1) Is there an adapter available from the round NATO plug to the standard 12 pin flat (caravan) plug. And ditto for the round 12 V NATO to an Anderson plug
2) if I need to use a drop hitch for the caravan (off road Atlantic) to get my caravan level what is available for the ineos.
3) can I replace the in-built driving lights with strong LEDs
4) can I rejig the wiring for these to be triggered thru the high-beam circuit
5) towing mirrors????
6) where are people mounting the UHF radio, hand piece and aerial
7) I use a TPMS for the bt50 and the 4 caravan tyres, will this cause problems with the standard grenadier TPMS
8) where have people mounted their caravan sway control (eg Elite pro) control switch
Cheers Brian
 
For a start, you have to bypass the NATO activation solenoid to get power when driving.
Some of us have built their own NATO to Anderson adapters.
My UHF is mounted beneath the glovebox and a magnetic handpiece mount is placed just tothe right of the console.
Oh and I use bluetooth Elecbrakes, avoiding a hard wired Towpro unit.
 
The NATO plug is not really suitable for supplying a caravan. It is designed to service a winch and therefor supplies high amps. There are also conditions for it to function, I think it cuts out when the vehicle speed exceeds 80kmh.
For towing electrics to the caravan I kept the factory European style 13 pin round plug and use an adaptor to take it down to a flat 7 pin, available from Autobarn. The European style plug is well wired in and looks pretty water proof.
I fitted a Redarc Towpro Elite brake controller and put the switch in the centre console near the handbrake. It can be easily reached by driver and passenger if you need to tap it to activate the brakes for sway control. I see that Redarc have just released a Bluetooth controller and I would have installed that if it were available at the time. Running the cables for the Towpro Elite was a bit of a pain and I would not have had to drill holes in the centre console. Here is the link to the new Redarc Wireless
I fitted my UHF behind the glovebox, use the John Canny YouTube video as a guide for running the aerial cable through the firewall and positioning the antenna on the bullbar. Pick up the power supply from the INT 1 wire in the footwell. For mounting the handset I 3d printed a bracket that sits on the centre console. I put the magnet from a GME Magnetic Mount into the homemade mount.
Mirrors, I just used the old clip-ons that I had from previous vehicles, nothing special, they do the job.
 
1) there is but I just had Expedition HQ wire in a 7/12 pin kit.
2) Item 40 under first heading: TOWING HITCH (AU): look under the heading TOWING GEAR in this thread here (AU focus);
3) Yes, it is also fairly easy to fit a 20 inch Lightforce Viper to the roo bar (if you get a roo bar). Items 20 to 22 under second heading on supplied link above.
4) Yes, using a relay to the high beam circuit. The spot lights need to be turned on from the overhead console, so they are not accidentally triggered on the steering wheel stalk.
5) None from Clearview or other suppliers yet. Need to look at a Universal fit. I do not need them as my van is smaller.
6) Item 40 under second heading: UHF (CB) RADIO: How to install a UHF (CB) Radio in an INEOS Grenadier without drilling any holes here (RHD cars only) and fitout here. LHD drive cars look here and here and detailed video here. Aerials can be mounted on roo bar, roof rails, passenger side mirror (you need the KAON bracket), roofrack or at various places at the back, including the L Track.
7) No reported cases I have seen.
8) No idea.
 
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Here's some thoughts and ideas after towing heaps. 3100kg van 280 on the ball thereabouts.

Nato socket is fine for powering van - it is 'capable' of 350amps but will only supply whatever your dcdc requires and this should have it's own fuse from supply. As said by others, it does need a new 12v feed to the Albright solenoid otherwise will not really work. Some as I have used one of the overhead switches to power the Nato socket..

The 13pin Euro plug is far superior IMHO to any other flat or round available here. No bad earths, nor does it fall out - it has a cam lock. Perhaps consider changing your van and carry an adaptor. There are spare pin positions in the 13 Euro that can be used for your van rear camera. (the pins need to be sourced but easy enough)

Perhaps consider driving the vehicle at night before modifying lights - they are very good.

A wolfbox powered rear view mirror with replacement mirror brackets is a good investment.

Consider moving the rear camera of the car to centre.

Plenty of places for the UHF and tow module with easy access for cables/power. I have my redarc module attached to a bracket near the spare battery compartment and UHF on a bracket behind a panel under the steering wheel.

If you like to work on your own vehicles and do installations then you will be very happy with this vehicle as it's well set up for this purpose. Also tows extremely well. I did have to get a 3800gvm upgrade with HD (Black Eibach) rear springs from Expedition HQ. Here's some pics and there is plenty of info on the forum.
redarc button install.jpg
phone location.jpg
brake controller.jpg
antenna2.jpg
solenoid wire.jpg
rear camera plug.jpg


Redarc controller and radio mic mount.
redarc button install.jpg


Phone on powered quadlock mount.
phone location.jpg


Redarc near Aux Battery location
brake controller.jpg


Antenna cable runs up B pillar and out of power gromet.
antenna2.jpg


New power feed to operate Nato solenoid.
solenoid wire.jpg


Moving rear camera to centre - makes hitching up much easier...
rear camera plug.jpg
 
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