Build Thread Buzz overland system 3 install with locks

[Tinki]

Hello team ,

So here it goes , the usual disclaimer, repeat the below at your own risk .

Ever since day 1 I needed a set of drawers for the back of the gren to store all my stuff .

In the beginning i started planning and designing custom drawers for it ….. then life got in the way …

So i begun looking around . I settled on the buzz overland drawers . Overall no complaints , solid built , they dont squeak or creak and can carry decent amount of weight .
Downside was the there were no locks on the drawers and i had to remove the L track and install the Buzz overland floor . But now that its done not a big deal .

So here it goes .

First removal of the rear L track was easy along with installation of some dynamat since i was there.

Then while installing the floor attachments ( Buzz overland has a great video that walk you through step by step ) i discovered that my truck must have been a Friday afternoon one . Since one of the bolts was cross threaded. Thankfully the empire of dirt provided a tap to chase the threads . No big deal .

To align the cross members with the floor attachments you need something conical to align the holes . I used a hose removal tool .

Once that is done then everything is tightened and torqued . That is the floor structure prepared .

Over this goes the floor . And on the floor the drawers . Drawers can be removed and the floor used as normal .
Now the issue is came across is that since i have the inverter my 12v plug is lower down . This interferes with the drawer top plate .
So some swearing and fiddling about i managed to remove it with out taking everything out .

Then i used a step bit to move the hole higher . After that everything worked great . Used a plastic plug to cover the old hole .

And that is it for the install . Done the whole thing in a single evening. Can be done solo .

 

[Tinki]

Now for the locks . I was looking for solutions on how to lock the drawers .
There is an inner lip on the inside of the drawer body so you can use a cam lock to lock them .

I followed the example of a few fellow forum members and went down the route of abloy cam locks . I specifically ordered ones that you can remove the key in both the locked and unlocked position .

Now the issue was to make the hole for the locks .
These loca do not use a round hole but instead a “ double D “ hole . ( i know the jokes write themselves). Initially i thought i would just drill a round hole and file it to shape . But then i came to my senses and decided to find a faster an easier way to do it .

Looking into it i found that you can buy a punch for this . Looked everywhere in Europe and could not find one but managed to score one in the USA.

This is it , and i am so glad i did . Effortless perfect holes every time . Worth the money in my book .

Once all tools are assembled . I marked the front of the drawer body, the used a center drill to make sure my drill did not wander .

Optical centre punch is pretty useful fot things like this . You do not need it but if you have one it removes the guesswork.

This is the smallest center drill i had . It worked great .

After the initial centre hole i stepped it up in 2 mm increments up to 12mm which was the clearance size for the punch arbor .

 

[Tinki]

I used the punch with a 26mm wrench to punch the holes . This was the easiest and best part of the whole project .

This is the punch disassembled

Punch assembled on the drawer below

And then a few turns and an effortless perfect hole appears

After this everything else is easy . Lock screws in and thats the end .

The other side took half the time . Once i knew where the hole should be .

Final product . Perfectly happy with how it turned out .