Using the NATO socket to power equipment - This is how it works.

[anand]

Its aggravating that Ineos has done very silly nanny things like this that I have never heard of.

Specifically not winching in park is the accepted and taught best practice from the I4WDTA, so it would seem logical that a vehicle manufacturer follows those guidelines

If it really bothers you that much, it isn't the hardest thing in the world to bypass the logic relay

 

[AUDIOBUS]

Truly a reassembly PITA. @nodric thank you for the hints!

Nice write up @nodric. That is exactly the same use case I use the NATO for.

In my case I made a NATO plug to 50amp Anderson plug adaptor and converted the lead on my old Thomas Blue Tongue compressor to an Anderson plug. If I need to connect the pump directly to the battery I use an Anderson battery clamp adaptor.

Cheers
Steve

I did the same, making a pigtail set with Anderson to NATO, Anderson to Alligator clips, Anderson to cigarette lighter. Thanks to all who’ve ventured before—-

 

[Zimm]

I'd rather a dirty truck than use a car wash.

 

[Zimm]

You should 100% absolutely NEVER be in park to winch. Be in reverse or drive with your foot on the brake. Being up against the parking pall is a recipe for disaster; not to mention it gives you no escape route incase things start going s(l)ideways

And then again, Warn manuals would tell you to put it in park.

This feels similar to 1.5 x gvw for minimum winch size. A group of experts sit at a table and come up with recommendations based on opinions and ideas that are likely good ideas, but these recommendations later get taken as full gospel red lines not to ever cross without anyone actually thinking it thru with real life applications.

I'm thinking of personal scenarios where I've acted as the winch that's pulling people up to the top of a slope. I'm having a hard time creating a catastrophe where being in park would doom me and reverse would save me.. My engine is running, I've got my parking brake on (and it works), my foot is pressed on the brake, and I'm in park. I'm working the winch and the fella on the hook is slowly working his way up... Whats the success/catastrophe scenario where reverse and park have different outcomes, how does reverse help me escape and what am I escaping? If being in park would somehow be a liability, couldn't I just take it out of park? I'm asking because I really don't know. If there's an equipment failure, I stop, if he starts to roll, I'm kinda hooked on to him. In this scenario I've been in park and the hand throttle or my foot has the rpm at 2000 or so to mitigate some voltage drop.

 

[anand]

how does reverse help me escape and what am I escaping? If being in park would somehow be a liability, couldn't I just take it out of park? I'm asking because I really don't know. If there's an equipment failure, I stop, if he starts to roll, I'm kinda hooked on to him. In this scenario I've been in park and the hand throttle or my foot has the rpm at 2000 or so to mitigate some voltage drop.

Being in reverse allows you to reposition if needed, but primarily it takes the stress off of the parking pall... Sure being on the service (foot) brake is absolutely helpful in this case, assuming that it isn't already resting on the pall already. The concern is preventing non-field repairable damage

 

[Phred]

Zimm, I agree. When I read about the reverse/ neutral requirement, I was perplexed.
I have done several recoveries in my Gladiator at the top of a slope pulling my brothers Jeep up. I’m anchored in the rear to a tree, in park, and pulling him up a slope. I can’t see how neutral or reverse would be appropriate.

I can only assume they are referencing a self recovery?

 

[Adam-Oz]

I am wanting to use the NATO plug to power my caravan whilst driving using a 120 amp Anderson connection and have ordered the NATO plug from Agile Offroad. I have a 800Ah battery system and a 120Ah DCDC charging system in the van so having the extra charging capacity of the NATO plug wold be very handy and save having to run a dedicated loop and another connection at the rear.

Has anyone managed to bypass the 80km/hr setting that turns off the power or engineered a setup using the NATO plug to power their van whilst driving?

 

[Grenadian]

Just a quick post to help anyone that comes searching. This is how the NATO socket works. There are a lot of musing and threads about how to hack the hoops needed, but I found it easy for my purpose. To attached an external ARB compressor.

1. Engine running.
2. Flip the 500 amp switch in the roof to on.
3. Apply the parking brake unless you like rolling vehicles.
4. Put the transmission in neutral. The last step is the on/off for the socket. The reason? It's meant for a winch and Ineos won't let you operate a winch in park.

This is what I am using the socket for.

A. I picked up a NATO plug from Agile Offroad here - Link and used it to connect my ARB portable compressor to the NATO outlet.

B. The NATO plug is a PITA to fit. The terminals are solder type and need a LOT of heat and a LOT of solder to flood them and secure the wires. It is also a PITA to reassemble, but patience and some skill and you'll achieve it.

C. The ARB kit was TWIN MOTOR PORTABLE 12V AIR COMPRESSOR CKMTP12 - Link here.

D. I also picked up a spare harness for it so I didn't have to butcher the supplied harness with battery clamps as this means I still have that option for pother vehicles or situations. Spare harness is this but ARB are out of stock so I did evilBay. Amazon Link Here.

Why didn't I go for the Agile Offroad under rear seat hard installed system? I decided to have the flexibility of multi-vehicle use, as well as the kit I got has dual motors and a mini tank so faster inflation. I also ride dual sport bikes so wanted chance vehicle flexibility.

Some random pics took while soldering leads. Gripped the terminals one at a time in a vise grip plier as a heat shunt and to keep it steady. Used a gas soldering iron (needs a LOT OF HEAT) but a Weller gun would work. Flowed solder for a good 5 mins into the connector. With better soldering equipment (I normal do small electronics) you will flow the solder faster.

If I got anything wrong I am sure others will add helpful hints

Very interesting article.
I bought ARB Twin Comp 12V.
But the NATO Plug is 24V.
How do I use it?
Thanks a lot.

 

[Logsplitter]

Very interesting article.
I bought ARB Twin Comp 12V.
But the NATO Plug is 24V.
How do I use it?
Thanks a lot.

The NATO socket is just a socket regardless of voltage. There is no 24v on the Grenadier. It’s the amperage rating that is more critical. The ARB twin compressor that I have installed under the seat has two x 40amp inline fuses one for each compressor motor. If you want to use the NATO plug you could just make a NATO plug to Anderson lead up and put an Anderson plug on your compressor.

 

[Blackwolf]

Does anyone know a source of the connecter inserts for the NATO plugs, i.e., the contacts pins on their own? I have a plug with a damaged insert and would be happier buying new pins than scrapping the whole plug. I also wonder if different pins are available for different size wire/cable. Unfortunately I haven't manage to determine who actually makes the plugs that are generally available.

 

[Cheshire cat]

Just ordered a Nato plug and some Anderson (Genuine) connectors. Let the pain and difficulty in assembling, begin.

 

[Krabby]

Just ordered a Nato plug and some Anderson (Genuine) connectors. Let the pain and difficulty in assembling, begin.

Please document your progress.

 

[Clark Kent]

Just ordered a Nato plug and some Anderson (Genuine) connectors. Let the pain and difficulty in assembling, begin.

@Cheshire cat I think you have seen my adapter in this post. It wasn't the first adapter made and I'm not claiming it's the best but I learned some things doing it and since. Sharing again as part reflection and part summation of ideas from others.

1. Your plug will likely have 35mm2 contacts. That's the size of the crimp/solder pocket in the wire side/back of the contacts. There is also a 50mm2 option.
2. 6AWG (6B&S) cable is a good size to use. It has good mechanical strength for durability and the current capacity is well above the 50 Amp rating of the SB50 Anderson.
3. If you're using the adapter for a trailer then think about the length of cable you use. Ideally you don't want the Anderson plug hanging vertically because it relies only on friction to stay connected. If you have a choice try to place the Anderson either up on your drawbar where it can be secured, or place it horizontally. I also added a tether to retain my trailer cable so it won't drag on the ground if it does come unplugged. If the adapter is just for a compressor or similar then the cable length doesn't matter.
4. If you're dip soldering the cable into the contacts there is a sizeable gap to fill in. I made some copper sleeves. A simpler method is to cut a 35mm2 butt splice in half and use one half per contact as a spacer. Example. 50mm2 butt splices are also available if required.
5. You will need to close the back of the NATO plug rubber gland to support the cable and add weather protection. I used 13mm barbed irrigation pipe stop ends. Example. I drilled a hole in the end of the stop for the cable. Make this a close fit and no sealants will be required. Add some heat shrink if you do want to tighten it up a bit.
6. I recently added an Anderson boot to close the cable entry at the back of the SB50.

Current pics below.

 

[Baron von Teuchter]

Contemplating an ARB suitcase compressor, does anywhere sell an adaptor to run one of these from the NATO socket or am I going to have to try and make something?

I quite like the black sheep solution but it’s quite pricey and long lead time

 

[Blackwolf]

I've used an ARB twin suitcase compressor with my Defender for years, and for that made up an adaptor lead to allow the compressor to plug into the 175A Anderson sockets I had on the Defender. For the Grenadier I made up another adaptor to convert the NATO two-pin socket to 175A Anderson. The latter allows me to use the compressor and/or the demountable rear winch on either vehicle.

The ARB compressor comes as standard with croc clips for connection direct to a battery, but it is quite a high-current unit and I really don't like using croc clips for high current loads. Additionally on neither the Defender nor the Grenadier are the batteries conveniently accessible.

 

[Logsplitter]

An Anderson plug certainly makes it easier but crocodile clips work fine for a compressor when attached to the jump start post under the bonnet of the Grenadier.