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Upgraded the stereo in 3 phases: sharing what I have learned and completed.

I’m struggling to remove the brown 8 pin ISO connector from the back of the factory head unit.
Any tips on how to disconnect it? Can anyone confirm that the brown connector in the picture is correct one to disconnect?
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Yes the brown one is right. The clips to the left of your pic in the middle of each connector push towards the center.

It was by far the hardest part, but you can eventually push the clip and pull and get it out. Alternatively if you remove the large trim piece below the steering wheel it exposes the head unit and you can remove it and slide forward getting you some more room to work
 
Thanks for the confirmation before I commit 100% to removing that connector. My solution was to detach the black brackets from the side of the factory headunit. Next I removed the heatsink from the left side of the headunit. This allowed me to push it towards the footwell enough that I could see the connector. Last I used a small channel lock tool to pull the connector free.

Thanks to Derek and Eric for outlining a way to upgrade the sound system.
 
Ahhh, I remember the days, going to K-Mart and getting a graphic equalizer/booster and some 6x9 triaxials with 20oz magnets and thinking that was the s**t!
 
Ahhh, I remember the days, going to K-Mart and getting a graphic equalizer/booster and some 6x9 triaxials with 20oz magnets and thinking that was the s**t!

That is because it was the s**t. I got the under dash 8 Track + Cassette Deck for the '79 Sunbird because I was a Player..

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So when installing the after market 6.5 speaker, I assume we can’t use the original speaker mounting holes? The diameter between the holes are about 4mm longer with the oem 6” speaker
 
So when installing the after market 6.5 speaker, I assume we can’t use the original speaker mounting holes? The diameter between the holes are about 4mm longer with the oem 6” speaker
I used 6 1/2" Kickers. I had to open about a 2" strip slightly for the front to mount flush. The rear I used one of the supplied adapter rings as a spacer (about 1/8") then I did not have to adjust the opening.
 
I used 6 1/2" Kickers. I had to open about a 2" strip slightly for the front to mount flush. The rear I used one of the supplied adapter rings as a spacer (about 1/8") then I did not have to adjust the opening.
Did you reuse the speaker holes in the door? So once the speaker sits flush, the hole alignment is still an issue no? I measure about 4mm difference between the diameter of the speaker holes vs door holes
 
Did you reuse the speaker holes in the door? So once the speaker sits flush, the hole alignment is still an issue no? I measure about 4mm difference between the diameter of the speaker holes vs door holes
The holes were pretty close to the OE. I was able to re-use factory screws + plugs on terminals ( I did solder to make sure they stayed on). There was a gap to the door card/ grille which I used Sound Skins speaker rings foam to seal the gap also added a bit of Dynamat on the door card.
 
Did you reuse the speaker holes in the door? So once the speaker sits flush, the hole alignment is still an issue no? I measure about 4mm difference between the diameter of the speaker holes vs door holes
I used the Hertz CK165 kit. The C165 (165mm) door speakers screwed into the original holes with a bit of angling inwards. That's after I opened up the door aperture about 10mm to let the speaker sit in the door. The plastic is very soft. I used a cordless belt file to enlarge the hole.

I used a bit of leftover door draught stopper foam tape to fill the void to the door card.

Factory 6 inch speaker
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Hertz 165mm speaker
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Side by side
PXL_20260228_014119583.jpg


Surgery (with hertz template)
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