The under body protection thread.

[Tom D]

Just thought I’d post something about the Lanoguard that I applied today.
Its easy to apply, way easier than waxoyl or similar. I had the basic kit and there was more than enough liquid. The grease was good and there’s loads of that left, I can see it coming in handy for all sorts of things. Like ball joints on the tractor 3 point linkage and threads on top links. The big advantage for me over other types of sealant is that fact that it can be sprayed on anything without needing to mask things up, and that any drips or overspray wont mark the ground, or your clothes or anything else that you get it on..

I think applying it once a year won’t be a chore, it took me about an hour to do, I guess next time I’ll have to power wash the car first but this time as it had only done 100 miles it was clean enough to go straight on.

I was lucky enough to be able to use my brothers house to lift the car, but it could easily have been dome with the car on a couple of low ramps. If you do have to crawl underneath the car the non toxic, and easily cleaned properties make Lanoguard a good choice..

 

[DaBull]

Just thought I’d post something about the Lanoguard that I applied today.
Its easy to apply, way easier than waxoyl or similar. I had the basic kit and there was more than enough liquid. The grease was good and there’s loads of that left, I can see it coming in handy for all sorts of things. Like ball joints on the tractor 3 point linkage and threads on top links. The big advantage for me over other types of sealant is that fact that it can be sprayed on anything without needing to mask things up, and that any drips or overspray wont mark the ground, or your clothes or anything else that you get it on..

I think applying it once a year won’t be a chore, it took me about an hour to do, I guess next time I’ll have to power wash the car first but this time as it had only done 100 miles it was clean enough to go straight on.

I was lucky enough to be able to use my brothers house to lift the car, but it could easily have been dome with the car on a couple of low ramps. If you do have to crawl underneath the car the non toxic, and easily cleaned properties make Lanoguard a good choice..

Hi Tom D, Does the Lanoguard eventually dry enough so as to not attract dust and dirt and if so about how long does that take? DaBull

 

[ECrider]

Just thought I’d post something about the Lanoguard that I applied today.
Its easy to apply, way easier than waxoyl or similar. I had the basic kit and there was more than enough liquid. The grease was good and there’s loads of that left, I can see it coming in handy for all sorts of things. Like ball joints on the tractor 3 point linkage and threads on top links. The big advantage for me over other types of sealant is that fact that it can be sprayed on anything without needing to mask things up, and that any drips or overspray wont mark the ground, or your clothes or anything else that you get it on..

I think applying it once a year won’t be a chore, it took me about an hour to do, I guess next time I’ll have to power wash the car first but this time as it had only done 100 miles it was clean enough to go straight on.

I was lucky enough to be able to use my brothers house to lift the car, but it could easily have been dome with the car on a couple of low ramps. If you do have to crawl underneath the car the non toxic, and easily cleaned properties make Lanoguard a good choice..

nice one. was just looking on here for those that had lano'd theirs. Will do similar but ideally need a brother like yours!

 

[Tom D]

Hi Tom D, Does the Lanoguard eventually dry enough so as to not attract dust and dirt and if so about how long does that take? DaBull

It does dry to a wax candle like finish apparently, It takes about 24 hours to not be ‘wet’, Mine still feels greasy but thats about right according to the instructions. I’ll report back in a week..

 

[Tazzieman]

I am yet to try Chassis Shield on my cars ; anyone else used it?
https://4wdetail.com/products/chassis-shield™-anti-corrosion-super-charging-agent

 

[Gwynne]

Anyone (in UK or USA, not sure it's available elsewhere) tried Nyalic as an under body protective coating? Comes from the marine Industry but it's not widely known about as far as I can tell.

 

[Gaston the Grenadier]

Coming from 15 years in grit blasting and protecting steel products (vehicles, boats etc) our general rule of thumb was that if it goes on easily, it’ll come off easily.
Now is a good time to get your Grenadier off the deck and give it a proper hot steam clean underneath. Give it a day to dry out, or spend a while with an air lance blowing out those nooks & crannies.
We always used Waxoyl, so I’m a little biased, as it always performed well for our clients’ vehicles (grit spreaders included), but I know there are comparable products available these days.
However, with Lanoguard I’m hearing you have to double dose to achieve a more lasting result (nothing wrong with that), and I’m also hearing that for some users it doesn’t dry properly, therefore picking up road dirt and dust (if off-roading).
With Waxoyl we used to heat it up to “uncomfortably hot” which allowed it to be applied with a finer nozzle on our spray kit.
For council salt spreaders, we applied a number of coats over a few days, allowing any “solvent” or carrier to evaporate before another coat was applied.
But one thing’s for sure; it was never a quick and easy job. You really have to be diligent in ensuring total coverage of your item being treated.
We opted for the black Waxoyl as this gave a good visible indication of not only coverage, but thickness of each coat.
So, with no disrespect to the contributor that reckoned it only took around an hour to do the underside of his Grenny, I’d suggest going back under and having another go with the remainder of his Lanogaurd.
Most manufacturers of these type of products rarely provide enough for one full application; it means you’ve got to either buy two, or head back to the supplier and buy another!

 

[K1LL3M]

I am yet to try Chassis Shield on my cars ; anyone else used it?
https://4wdetail.com/products/chassis-shield™-anti-corrosion-super-charging-agent

I am planning on giving this a go, the marketing does seem pretty convincing.

 

[Tom D]

Coming from 15 years in grit blasting and protecting steel products (vehicles, boats etc) our general rule of thumb was that if it goes on easily, it’ll come off easily.
Now is a good time to get your Grenadier off the deck and give it a proper hot steam clean underneath. Give it a day to dry out, or spend a while with an air lance blowing out those nooks & crannies.
We always used Waxoyl, so I’m a little biased, as it always performed well for our clients’ vehicles (grit spreaders included), but I know there are comparable products available these days.
However, with Lanoguard I’m hearing you have to double dose to achieve a more lasting result (nothing wrong with that), and I’m also hearing that for some users it doesn’t dry properly, therefore picking up road dirt and dust (if off-roading).
With Waxoyl we used to heat it up to “uncomfortably hot” which allowed it to be applied with a finer nozzle on our spray kit.
For council salt spreaders, we applied a number of coats over a few days, allowing any “solvent” or carrier to evaporate before another coat was applied.
But one thing’s for sure; it was never a quick and easy job. You really have to be diligent in ensuring total coverage of your item being treated.
We opted for the black Waxoyl as this gave a good visible indication of not only coverage, but thickness of each coat.
So, with no disrespect to the contributor that reckoned it only took around an hour to do the underside of his Grenny, I’d suggest going back under and having another go with the remainder of his Lanogaurd.
Most manufacturers of these type of products rarely provide enough for one full application; it means you’ve got to either buy two, or head back to the supplier and buy another!

It really did take an hour, and there wasn’t a dry bit under the car, I did also spend about an hour applying the grease to all the bolt heads and other rust prone areas. So two hours in total, The only area that might be missing some would be under the add blue tanks, although I did try and spray in from the sides in the rear wheel arches. The nozzle on the applicator is adjustable so can be made into a jet that travels about 4 -6 feet. Waxoyl is good but to do that I would have had to mask up parts, and protect the floor and other things in the vicinity. It would have been a much bigger job. If you waxoyl yours we should return to this thread in the future and see how things have performed. I had about 10-15% of the bottle left at the end.

 

[Gaston the Grenadier]

Sounds like you did a good job.
Definitely keep this thread open and keep an eye on how well the Lanoguard performs. Some other reports suggest a top up at 6 months, but that could imply that either the product doesn’t last long, or more likely that not enough was applied in the first place. This makes it difficult to rate a DIY product.
Being sheep based, I wonder if the vegan community has an issue with it?

 

[Eric]

It really did take an hour, and there wasn’t a dry bit under the car, I did also spend about an hour applying the grease to all the bolt heads and other rust prone areas. So two hours in total, The only area that might be missing some would be under the add blue tanks, although I did try and spray in from the sides in the rear wheel arches. The nozzle on the applicator is adjustable so can be made into a jet that travels about 4 -6 feet. Waxoyl is good but to do that I would have had to mask up parts, and protect the floor and other things in the vicinity. It would have been a much bigger job. If you waxoyl yours we should return to this thread in the future and see how things have performed. I had about 10-15% of the bottle left at the end.

Concur with you comments @Tom D about application. Whilst the wife's car was on the ramp, for something else, lanoguard was sprayed whilst it was up, there wasn't an intention to do it, it was an opportunity thing. Went on very easy, very quickly 1/2 hour, relatively cheap since it was a spur of the moment decision. But it is recommended to do it yearly so will see what it looks like in due course. Wouldn't recommend this casual approach but was just more of a trial of Lanoguard

 

[Krabby]

Has anyone used this product from Blaster?

I’ve seen a fe different videos/reviews and it looks promising.

SURFACE SHIELD

 

[crashnburn]

Has anyone used this product from Blaster?

I’ve seen a fe different videos/reviews and it looks promising.

SURFACE SHIELD

Bought a can of this for my D90 rear cross member early this year.
Not as runny as fluid film.

So far has not evaporated/washed out yet.

 

[Krabby]

Bought a can of this for my D90 rear cross member.

Not as runny as fluid film.

I've watched a few videos and really like what I see. Lots of complaints about the aerosol cans jamming up, but I would use a sprayer anyway.

 

[Tom109]

Bought a can of this for my D90 rear cross member early this year.
Not as runny as fluid film.

So far has not evaporated/washed out yet.

I just stick with Fluid Film - easily available in 1 gallon cans. The first Winter I tried it I used a sample aerosol can and sprayed surface rust frame sections in October, and watched them through April. As seemingly light as FF is, it prevented new corrosion and there was no change to any existing corrosion.

 

[crashnburn]

I just stick with Fluid Film - easily available in 1 gallon cans. The first Winter I tried it I used a sample aerosol can and sprayed surface rust frame sections in October, and watched them through April. As seemingly light as FF is, it prevented new corrosion and there was no change to any existing corrosion.

One thing I like about FF is it creeps into those crevices.
I also bought the black color so I don't see the rust...

 

[Tom109]

One thing I like about FF is it creeps into those crevices.
I also bought the black color so I don't see the rust...

Yes, the creep factory is real, and self-heal to a point as well.

 

[Jeffrey]

I don't think this type of treatment is necessary for southern California locations.

 

[Miki]

Lanoguard is a trade name for a lanolin based wax. It's been around for years, the Romans used it to coat their wooden ships as it does produce a truly waterproof seal.
It's been available to the Marine industry for years too.
Lanoguard have had an excellent marketing campaign.

The principle ingredient is wool, which when boiled releases lanolin oil, very environmentaly friendly and no sheep are harmed, so it's alo fine for those with sensibilities regarding the use of animals in products.
The oil is a light brown in colour and is quite thick so needs a thinner and 'drier' added.
It also smells of concentrated sheep.
Black has a dye added.

It is also available in clear without the sheep odour. This more 'refined' product uses cobalt as the drier so can be over painted with modern water based paints (which also use cobalt as a drier).
So in answer to a couple of questions, yes it does 'dry' and not attract dust, however differing products take longer than others.
Some driers need warmer temperatures to evaporate out.
Additives (dye etc) can also slow the process.
24 to 48 hours for most products some of the newer (more refined) variants are 'touch dry' is a few hours.
There is no real reson that the newer itterations can't have a Red or Green or Blue tint.

Someone said they wanted to use black as it covers the rust.
You need to treat the rust first, use a tannic acid based application then seal the ferric tannate with a lanolin based overcoat.
The opaque properties allow you to keep an eye on things, so IMO it's better than black and much better than waxoil or other underseals.

It only needs recoating if it wears off.
Marketing has led everyone to think it needs recoating annually ... it will wear of the bottom of the diffs and other exposed areas much faster than up under the bonnet and behind the bumpers etc.
Lanolin also 'regenerates' bitumen and wax based peoducts.
It can be sprayed or brushed, I prefer brushing.

All of my vehicles and outdoor machines get a coating.
Some parts of my Defender need recoating once or twice a year, the insides of the chassis and other 'protected' areas are still good after 3 years.

01_Lanolin in Technical Applications - LANIS LANOLIN | ImperialOel

Lanolin / wool wax functions and applications in industrial processes and technical applications.

lanolin.com

EWE STOP RUST® Spray

Ready-To-Use anti-rust trigger spray. Rust prevention spray for use on any surface or moving parts to create a nano-coating moisture barrier. EWE STOP RUST harnesses the incredible anti-corrosion and anti-seize properties found in the naturally occurring oils in sheep's wool to protect metal...

andermattgarden.co.uk

 

[Bruce]

After watching this I'm debating between Fluid Film and the CRC HD.

View: https://youtu.be/lyWHF4NoNVk