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Photos of factory TBC?

cdsvt

Grenadier Owner
Local time
7:09 AM
Joined
Nov 10, 2022
Messages
24
Location
Vermont, USA
I pulled the right interior cargo panel searching for the stock TBC. Since I don't have a tow package, I probably don't have one. I'm trying to decipher the trailer brake wiring threads, so want to look in the TBC for the wires that people use for the redarc towpro elite trigger.

Do any of these things look like a TBC?

I'm guessing the thing with the large (2/0?) wires is probably the high amp relay for the Nato plug. (And why don't they cover these with silicone covers?)
IMG_0869.jpeg


What about the box on the left? It is marked
EE-0000001967

IMG_0871.jpeg

IMG_0875.jpeg

Or maybe it is what would be connected here if I had the factory tow wiring?
IMG_0873.jpeg
 
I pulled the right interior cargo panel searching for the stock TBC. Since I don't have a tow package, I probably don't have one. I'm trying to decipher the trailer brake wiring threads, so want to look in the TBC for the wires that people use for the redarc towpro elite trigger.

Do any of these things look like a TBC?

I'm guessing the thing with the large (2/0?) wires is probably the high amp relay for the Nato plug. (And why don't they cover these with silicone covers?)
View attachment 7903243

What about the box on the left? It is marked
EE-0000001967

View attachment 7903244
View attachment 7903241
Or maybe it is what would be connected here if I had the factory tow wiring?
View attachment 7903242

The solenoid (relay) is for the NATO socket.
The two spade terminals are the coil trigger circuit. Put power onto the green wire side and the solenoid will energise and send power out to the NATO socket. Upstream of that terminal is the pre-relays that you have already discovered. You can continue reconfiguring at the pre-relays as per @Tom D's method or put ignition fed or switched power directly onto the green terminal. Disconnect the spade and replace with your own circuit.
Or, forget all of that and stack the two ring terminals together on the live side of the solenoid and your NATO socket will be powered whenever the key in ON. Choices...
 
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I'm thinking about bypassing all of the shenanigans, running a wire from INT2 down the sill back to the cargo area to the high amp solenoid replacing the green trigger wire. In stock configuration it will only be on when running (or if the roof mounted auxiliary power switch is on while not running). I may also run a dedicated 60amp zcase fuse on pin 5 in the auxiliary fuse box, with the wire leading back to the rear high amp solenoid. If I downsize the wire for the rear high amp solenoid to a 6ga it will be a better fit for the Anderson connector. I'd just remove the Nato connector and put an Anderson connector in its place. Crazy, probably, but oh well. Fit for purpose for me.
 
I still find myself churning about how I add a 7 pin US trailer plug and trigger the redarc towpro. Lots of threads about it, but moat seem inconclusive. Without the factory TBC, I don't think I have the ability to use the workaround a lot of people use. I reached out the member that is selling a 7 pin kit (Oscar?) but no reply so far.

Our off road camper is 5500lbs dry, so we need a 7 pin and brake controller to be safe.
 
I still find myself churning about how I add a 7 pin US trailer plug and trigger the redarc towpro. Lots of threads about it, but moat seem inconclusive. Without the factory TBC, I don't think I have the ability to use the workaround a lot of people use. I reached out the member that is selling a 7 pin kit (Oscar?) but no reply so far.

Our off road camper is 5500lbs dry, so we need a 7 pin and brake controller to be safe.
If you don't want to go down the ~$3500 OEM solution, Oscar from The Off Road Gear Guys has a pretty straight forward 7 pin set up
 
I'm thinking about bypassing all of the shenanigans, running a wire from INT2 down the sill back to the cargo area to the high amp solenoid replacing the green trigger wire. In stock configuration it will only be on when running (or if the roof mounted auxiliary power switch is on while not running). I may also run a dedicated 60amp zcase fuse on pin 5 in the auxiliary fuse box, with the wire leading back to the rear high amp solenoid. If I downsize the wire for the rear high amp solenoid to a 6ga it will be a better fit for the Anderson connector. I'd just remove the Nato connector and put an Anderson connector in its place. Crazy, probably, but oh well. Fit for purpose for me.
That's a version of what I did (I see you found my earlier posts). I've tried to avoid hacking into the loom if there is a reasonable alternative. Replacing the power supply at that relay is completely reversible. Same with downgrading the z-case fuse.

INT2 is rated at 10A which should be plenty to operate the relay at that distance. If you have a clamp current meter you could do an amps check of the factory circuit if you're concerned about it.

The positive cable from the relay to the NATO socket is well wrapped and tucked away. If you don't plan to use the socket, which is mechanically a much better arrangement than an Anderson, I would just add a new cable from the relay to your Anderson and disconnect and leave the existing cable in place. The NATO socket uses an earth return so you only need to deal with the positive side.

You probably read about NATO socket corrosion and stuck caps while searching. Be worth dealing with that while you're messing about with it.
 
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