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OXIDATION!

Angler

Grenadier Owner
Local time
12:00 PM
Joined
Apr 13, 2025
Messages
11
Location
Los Angeles
I am very concerned. I picked up my NEW 2024 Grenadier from the dealer two weeks ago and about 4–5 days later I slid underneath to check out the cool factor and familiarize myself with the vehicle and I saw oxidation all over the transfer case. Then, I looked around and it's on the oil pan, alternator and every other aluminum part on the underside and engine compartment. I called the dealer and need to set up time to take it in but wondering if any of you have noticed this on your Grenadiers? I haven't had it near water except for a little rain the other day and the oxidation was there before then.
 

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It’s pretty normal on aluminium components, but yours look particularly furry. Maybe it’s been washed with something that reacted with it?
 
I am very concerned. I picked up my NEW 2024 Grenadier from the dealer two weeks ago and about 4–5 days later I slid underneath to check out the cool factor and familiarize myself with the vehicle and I saw oxidation all over the transfer case.
When you say new, do you mean new build or newly bought?
Some vehicles being sold as new are over a year old. That is plenty of time for the oxidation to begin.
 
When you say new, do you mean new build or newly bought?
Some vehicles being sold as new are over a year old. That is plenty of time for the oxidation to begin.
It is a 2024, newly purchased with 50 miles on it. I need to look at the build date but yes, it could be over a year ago. I had a 20 year old F150 that I used to drive on the beach in salt water that never showed a sign of oxidation. It's pretty sever and it's all the way up under the hood on the alternator. This can't be normal.
 
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That’s not normal and it’s the first I’ve heard on this forum. Looks like a pink chemical has reacted to it. Can’t think of what fluid is pink in the engine?
 
Not normal as it relates to other manufacturers. Have dealer get it dry ice blasted. Probably needs a sealer after that though. Not sure on that part.
 
The truck may have been on a RoRo through a storm, and left unwashed at the dealer lot for a long time.
 
It's not just on the transfer case. It's on every aluminum/magnesium part on this truck. Even the engine compartment. They're trying to tell me that is just "Salt Accumulation" from transport. Ridiculous! There are a couple more Grenadiers in my neighborhood. I'm going to take a look at those.
 
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That’s not normal and it’s the first I’ve heard on this forum. Looks like a pink chemical has reacted to it. Can’t think of what fluid is pink in the engine?
Those pink marks look like a marker was used for something. Maybe quality control?
 
You can try a couple quick things to see if its bad or just surface. Use shop rag with WD 40 on it and wipe it down, should look like new again, or steel wool.
 
You can try a couple quick things to see if its bad or just surface. Use shop rag with WD 40 on it and wipe it down, should look like new again, or steel wool.
Thanks Tenac, I appreciate the idea and I'll try it on a test spot but there is a lot of metal that is affected and for what I paid for this truck– the dealer should do it and ENIOS should pay them.
 
You can try a couple quick things to see if its bad or just surface. Use shop rag with WD 40 on it and wipe it down, should look like new again, or steel wool.
I would not use an abrasive like steel wool. If the corrosion doesn't wipe off you have a problem. The only safe and permanent solution if wiping or some aluminum cleaner doesn't work is dry ice blasting. Glass beads work well but they get in every nook and cranny and will be a persistent problem. Dry Ice does the job and then is gone.
 
I would not use an abrasive like steel wool. If the corrosion doesn't wipe off you have a problem. The only safe and permanent solution if wiping or some aluminum cleaner doesn't work is dry ice blasting. Glass beads work well but they get in every nook and cranny and will be a persistent problem. Dry Ice does the job and then is gone.
I should have said 00wool it won't be like sand paper and won't remove but rather polish.
 
I’ve had this happen on vehicles I’ve owned,usually on the transmission or transfer case. It always washed off and I never thought of it again. Aluminum does weird things sometimes.
 
Show more pictures.m

In the ones you posted above the heat shield looks fine… so What do you mean by “everything” is oxidized? The heat shield certainly doesn’t look to be
 
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on mine too... I did not like it AT ALL
I hate all forms of rust /corrosion and I am particularly vigilant on the underside (not many of us are...)
I have sprayed oil on the affected areas, I know it is not a satisfactory solution
I think the problem is with the alloys used
 
lt's only surface oxidation, although unsightly it won't do any harm.

My advice is to spray everything with a clear wax based rust proofing spray such as XCP.

l did this on my 2022 Defender as l have seen surface rust underneath these vehicles after a couple of years.

Now, after three winters mine is still perfect.
Pictures show mine, and an un treated one of similar age.


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lt's only surface oxidation, although unsightly it won't do any harm.

My advice is to spray everything with a clear wax based rust proofing spray such as XCP.

l did this on my 2022 Defender as l have seen surface rust underneath these vehicles after a couple of years.

Now, after three winters mine is still perfect.
Pictures show mine, and an un treated one of similar age.


View attachment 7895275View attachment 7895280
Is the XCP product best for newer surface applications? Only asking as I’m wanting to also treat the underneath of a ten year old D90 that’s showing some surface damage on chassis etc etc
Thanks
 
All the surrounding parts seem to be pretty clean in those images and where the oxidization is so evenly spread across the aluminum suggests reaction to chemicals or contaminants in the air. Did they run out of space on the transporter ship and strap this one to the deck? There are aluminum deoxidizing chemicals which can stop the corrosion but I don’t know how you’d apply them as they would cause damage to surrounding components and other materials.

Safest method would be dry ice blasting as others have mentioned but you’d have to be meticulous in how it is done as any areas on the top of the transfer case, transmission, etc… you couldn’t reach will continue to corrode. It can be cleaned up and controlled but any untreated areas will continue to corrode. XCP as a final dressing once cleaned would definitely be worth it. Sorry for your troubles on this but I’d be very concerned about it for sure if it was my vehicle as well.
 
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