Lightbar on high beam and EXT switch

[Herr-Merlin]

Hey all, I want to wire a lightbar on the roof rack the following:

Input A) EXT switch 40A under the hood
Input B) high beam activate

If input A is active and B is activated it switches over. If Input B is off A works and if Input A is off Input B still works. Thats the easy part.

The switchting is easy with 2 relias and getting the wire up to the roof along the snorkel but there are still two open points:

A) Where to grab the high beam signal under the hood?
B) Where to get clean 12V under the hood?

BR,
Merlin

 

[AWo]

Do you already have the lights?

AWo

 

[Herr-Merlin]

What do you mean, yes I have currently a light bar connected to the roof outleet. need to free it up for startlink and want the option to switch it on by either high beam or the switch for 40A under the hood.

 

[AWo]

Ah, ok. I build adapter cablings and as I'm the designated aftermarket partner of Nolden (IG headlights) it is easy for me to build an adapter to grab the high beam signal. However, I sell my adapters only with the auxiliary lights....

AWo

 

[Herr-Merlin]

I guess after more research I found the soltuion for issue A) so I am ordering a 6 pin DT plug from amazon to build my self a piggy back adapter. As the one from Austratlia would need to long to ship here and you stated yourself that you are not intrested in making money
Thus the only question still open would be:

B) Where to get clean 12V under the hood?

 

[AWo]

I'm interested in making money, but you do not make money with these adapters. If I would charge you the correct amount of time you would say it is too expensive. Selling adapters is a tool for upselling, as the margin is within the light. We sold the adapters separately for a long time, just that customers hold me on the phone for 45, 60 or even 90 minutes just because they were not able to connect this adapter or they wanted to have a special solution, different length, special switching etc. etc. They even called twice or three times...to make 39 Euros of sales volume (not even profit). Great business idea of "making money". So we stopped the direct selling and that works fine, as well.
Don't judge if you're not in the same business...

AWo

 

[Herr-Merlin]

Guess we are different. Anyways.

I can build my own adapter no issues, with the information I found.

Still the open question is:

Where to I find clean 12V under the hood. Meaning clean from the battery, without a switch or pulling someting from some lights etc.

 

[AWo]

As no one has to pay your time and VAT and if you already have the right tools or know someone who has, you're always cheaper. The standard crimp tool for DEUTSCH from Tyco was 120 Euros 6 years ago, Knipex is double the price If you add, what we do, heat shrinking tubes, to have all stuff waterproof you also need a hot air gun. So yes, if you do have that all, DIY is the cheapest way...

BTW, the contacts for DEUTSCH in the required size are on "force majeur" at many dealers. If you find a dealer, maybe Mouser, where get them, let me know, please.....

 

[Herr-Merlin]

I just ordert plugs with cables already in it from amazon, one linked on facebook he used in his to creat a piggy back adapter. So no tools needed for the plug. Just heatgun etc. that I have!

Still I got this question, as I did not find anything right now:
Where can I get clean 12V under the bonnet?

 

[AWo]

Do your contact houses have the tail for heat shrinking tubes? If not, even if the tubes have glue inside, they will not last.

AWo

 

[landmannnn]

I just ordert plugs with cables already in it from amazon, one linked on facebook he used in his to creat a piggy back adapter. So no tools needed for the plug. Just heatgun etc. that I have!

Still I got this question, as I did not find anything right now:
Where can I get clean 12V under the bonnet?

From the jump start post. If you unscrew the top part you will find some connectors to link to.