Ctek Smartpass and D250SE Connector Plates

[Tomdoc]

No, cables just give alternate mounting options... work the same. (but I was lucky enough for ctek to send me a couple they had lying around..)

Hi - @bakepl could you measure the connector plates please - am going to make mine up from the bus bar material as above. Would be really helpful to have the exact measurements so they will fit on the plate from Black Sheep. Many thanks!

 

[bakepl]

Hi - @bakepl could you measure the connector plates please - am going to make mine up from the bus bar material as above. Would be really helpful to have the exact measurements so they will fit on the plate from Black Sheep. Many thanks!

15mm x 98mm, 8.35mm hole that commences 5mm in from each end.

 

[Tomdoc]

@bakepl - fantastic mate - really grateful. Cheers

 

[Rok_Dr]

Sadly I wasn't so lucky with CTEK customer service:

View attachment 7821692

So does anyone have any ideas - guess I will have to make up or get a AWG2 set of cables. Shame really as I have ordered the plate from Black Sheep.

Thanks for posting @Tomdoc.

Its interesting that ctek only specify thin awg12 gauge wire as a connector bar replacement for runs <0.5m. If I decide to fit a D250 I reckon I’ll just crimp up a couple of short lengths of cable rather than making up replacement bars.

cheers
Steve

 

[TheDocAUS]

15mm x 98mm, 8.35mm hole that commences 5mm in from each end.

I made some busbars tonight based on your measurements (thank you). Here they are:



My steps:

1. I used tin plated copper lugs, metric size 10-8 (meaning 10mm2 wire size and 8mm hole size). The lug fits onto the CTEK 250SE terminal, as I checked;
2. I used 8B&S wire cut to 7cm in length (with the lugs I used);
3. I crimped the lugs onto the wire, remembering to have the clear shrink tube on the wire for both ends, before crimping the second lug on. After I crimped the second lug I heat treated the dual wall tubing to each end.
4. I made it slightly bigger than 98mm (100mm), as the wires can flex and being too short is a problem but being a little longer is not.
5. The length measures correctly, but I cannot be 100% sure until I mate the two units together on the bracket, and I need my car for that.
6. I might yet wrap the red wire using black or a neutral coloured electrical/automotive tape.

I made a test busbar first, to work out what I would do wrong and then fix it for the next two.

All components are of high quality and I used a large crimper, with an adjustable dye (jaws), to crimp the lugs (following my own advice under the heading Crimping Tips here).

 

[Michael H.]

I made some busbars tonight based on your measurements (thank you). Here they are:

View attachment 7822067

My steps:

1. I used tin plated copper lugs, metric size 10-8. The 8 being the hole size in the lug. The lug fits onto the CTEK 250SE terminal, as I checked;
2. I used 8B&S wire cut to 7cm in length (with the lugs I used);
3. I crimped the lugs onto the wire, remembering to have the clear shrink tube on the wire for both ends, before crimping the second lug on. After I crimped the second lug I heat treated the dual wall tubing to each end.
4. I made it slightly bigger than 98mm (100mm), as the wires can flex and being too short is a problem but being a little longer is not.
5. The length measures correctly, but I cannot be 100% sure until I mate the two units together on the bracket, and I need my car for that.
6. I might yet wrap the red wire using black or a neutral coloured electrical tape.

I made test busbar first, to work out what I would do wrong and then fix it for the next two.

What are your thoughts on the fact that (as pointed out by @Rok_Dr ) and printed in the manual, that CTEK only specify AWG12 gauge wire to replace the Connector Plates?

 

[Rok_Dr]

I made some busbars tonight based on your measurements (thank you). Here they are:

View attachment 7822067

My steps:

1. I used tin plated copper lugs, metric size 10-8. The 8 being the hole size in the lug. The lug fits onto the CTEK 250SE terminal, as I checked;
2. I used 8B&S wire cut to 7cm in length (with the lugs I used);
3. I crimped the lugs onto the wire, remembering to have the clear shrink tube on the wire for both ends, before crimping the second lug on. After I crimped the second lug I heat treated the dual wall tubing to each end.
4. I made it slightly bigger than 98mm (100mm), as the wires can flex and being too short is a problem but being a little longer is not.
5. The length measures correctly, but I cannot be 100% sure until I mate the two units together on the bracket, and I need my car for that.
6. I might yet wrap the red wire using black or a neutral coloured electrical tape.

I made test busbar first, to work out what I would do wrong and then fix it for the next two.

Nicely made! Over engineered given the max output of the DS250 is 20 amps but I’ll probably do the same as I have some 8b&s in the garage.
cheers
Steve

 

[TheDocAUS]

What are your thoughts on the fact that (as pointed out by @Rok_Dr ) and printed in the manual, that CTEK only specify AWG12 gauge wire to replace the Connector Plates?

I do not think it will matter. I matched the wire to the best fitting lugs and went from there.

 

[Pat-Ard]

I made some busbars tonight based on your measurements (thank you). Here they are:

Where to order? Nice job!

 

[TheDocAUS]

Where to order? Nice job!

The postage would be prohibitive to Europe. You need to find someone in Europe. It is not that hard for someone with basic tools and the info above from Rok_Dr and my post.

An autoelectrician will have the final say on how my two units are joined but at least I have a working option (or worse case a spare set).

 

[AnD3rew]

Nicely made! Over engineered given the max output of the DS250 is 20 amps but I’ll probably do the same as I have some 8b&s in the garage.
cheers
Steve

The D250SE and the Smartpass together can output up to 140A I don’t know if it travels across those connections though

 

[TheDocAUS]

The D250SE and the Smartpass together can output up to 140A I don’t know if it travels across those connections though

I do not think 140 amps travels through those busbars, as the OEM busbar does not look thick enough to be rated to140amps. A post above talks about the manual saying 12AWG wire. 12AWG is rated at 25 amps for 12 volt set ups.

My suspicion is that the 20 amps from the CTEK250SE may go across the busbars, not the 120 amps from the 120S, but I do not know.

 

[Arkaig]

I think a couple of these will do the job just as well, at a reasonable price:


simply12volt.co.uk/battery-leads

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

I made some busbars tonight based on your measurements (thank you). Here they are:

View attachment 7822067

My steps:

1. I used tin plated copper lugs, metric size 10-8 (meaning 10mm2 wire size and 8mm hole size). The lug fits onto the CTEK 250SE terminal, as I checked;
2. I used 8B&S wire cut to 7cm in length (with the lugs I used);
3. I crimped the lugs onto the wire, remembering to have the clear shrink tube on the wire for both ends, before crimping the second lug on. After I crimped the second lug I heat treated the dual wall tubing to each end.
4. I made it slightly bigger than 98mm (100mm), as the wires can flex and being too short is a problem but being a little longer is not.
5. The length measures correctly, but I cannot be 100% sure until I mate the two units together on the bracket, and I need my car for that.
6. I might yet wrap the red wire using black or a neutral coloured electrical/automotive tape.

I made a test busbar first, to work out what I would do wrong and then fix it for the next two.

All components are of high quality and I used a large crimper, with an adjustable dye (jaws), to crimp the lugs (following my own advice under the heading Crimping Tips here).

DocAus, do you also recommend 8B&S twin wire for 50AMP Anderson plugs? I want to run a short Anderson plug from the CTEK D250SE so i can charge the aux battery. Any recommendations for Australian suppliers of cable/ connectors welcome.

 

[bakepl]

DocAus, do you also recommend 8B&S twin wire for 50AMP Anderson plugs? I want to run a short Anderson plug from the CTEK D250SE so i can charge the aux battery. Any recommendations for Australian suppliers of cable/ connectors welcome.

Springers at Capalaba have quality cable and lugs at reasonable prices. They also do installs if required. I have no affiliation just a good supplier. Likely crimp your cables if ask nicely.

Solar Panels Brisbane | Best Solar Installer Brisbane

We are the most trusted solar installer in Queensland. Our in-house team of solar experts crafts your system tailored to your individual needs.

www.springers.com.au

 

[DenisM]

Springers at Capalaba have quality cable and lugs at reasonable prices. They also do installs if required. I have no affiliation just a good supplier. Likely crimp your cables if ask nicely.

Solar Panels Brisbane | Best Solar Installer Brisbane

We are the most trusted solar installer in Queensland. Our in-house team of solar experts crafts your system tailored to your individual needs.

www.springers.com.au

I "second" that . Their service at both Capalaba and Lawnton/Strathpine stores is very good. Their mail order service is reliable also.

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

Springers at Capalaba have quality cable and lugs at reasonable prices. They also do installs if required. I have no affiliation just a good supplier. Likely crimp your cables if ask nicely.

Solar Panels Brisbane | Best Solar Installer Brisbane

We are the most trusted solar installer in Queensland. Our in-house team of solar experts crafts your system tailored to your individual needs.

www.springers.com.au

Thanks bakepl, i will check them out

 

[TheDocAUS]

DocAus, do you also recommend 8B&S twin wire for 50AMP Anderson plugs? I want to run a short Anderson plug from the CTEK D250SE so i can charge the aux battery. Any recommendations for Australian suppliers of cable/ connectors welcome.

It can depend on the length of the wires. Good Guide here. 8B&S wire is rated over 50 amps so it will do the job.

I always look at the amp rating of the wire before I buy, it is a good practice.

AUSTRALIAN CONNECTORS
Connector Tech ALS, they have a website and AU eBay store. Top quality gear and good pricing. I get nearly all connectors from them. Plus they have supported the INEOS Grenadier.

AUSTRALIAN COPPER WIRE
I buy quality terminals (Taiwanese made where possible) and Australian made Wise Owl (made by Austech Wire & Cable) or Tycab copper wire – often from PX Wholesales, Connector Tech ALS, Tinker Wholesale, Autoelec or Brillante Sales.

Plus my blog article on Crimping has even more links.

 

[AnD3rew]

DocAus, do you also recommend 8B&S twin wire for 50AMP Anderson plugs? I want to run a short Anderson plug from the CTEK D250SE so i can charge the aux battery. Any recommendations for Australian suppliers of cable/ connectors welcome.

Do you mean the auxiliary battery supplied by INEOS? If so then you should leave it connected to the Smartpass and add the D250SE to the Smartpass but the connection to the auxiliary battery is still through the 120S

 

[KDJDGrenadier]

Do you mean the auxiliary battery supplied by INEOS? If so then you should leave it connected to the Smartpass and add the D250SE to the Smartpass but the connection to the auxiliary battery is still through the 120S

View attachment 7822245

I was going to connect the solar blanket to the D250SE via the Anderson plug. Defintiely doing the above diagram. I plan to run the fridge off the smartpass consumer terminal. Probably going to connect the smart alternator wire to a jump fuse, hopefully to maximise the charging when driving