Battery SOC setpoint very low

[Clark Kent]

Thank you for the explanation. And if the optional second battery is present, it is completely outside of the BMS, correct?

That's correct as far as displayed SOC is concerned. The IBS is only on the main battery. The BMS won't be aware of the second battery per se but will sense the current draw of the 120S as a load on the main battery and respond accordingly.
Management of the second battery is done by the 120S hence Ineos call it the battery conditioner. Some owners have fitted a monitor to the second battery to keep an eye on the voltage.

 

[AaronS]

That's correct as far as displayed SOC is concerned. The IBS is only on the main battery. The BMS won't be aware of the second battery per se but will sense the current draw of the 120S as a load on the main battery and respond accordingly.
Management of the second battery is done by the 120S hence Ineos call it the battery conditioner. Some owners have fitted a monitor to the second battery to keep an eye on the voltage.

Awesome, thank you. I plan on doing just that.

Will it mess with anything if I also put a monitor on the primary battery?

 

[Clark Kent]

Awesome, thank you. I plan on doing just that.

Will it mess with anything if I also put a monitor on the primary battery?

No issues.

 

[CHM]

If this is the case, it's a disgrace. A utility off road vehicle should have the option to be able to be fully charged. The battery should be at 100% to meet the needs of the user, not some fuel efficiency trick (which must be minuscule).

I used to laugh about the new Defender running flat and bricking because it couldn't handle a week camping with the doors opening and closing, but I'm pretty embarrassed that my Grenadier won't ever see a fully charged battery.

After my latest service and software update, the maximum SoC has dropped from 82% to 70%. The recharge now drops off to 0A as soon as it hits 70%.

I agree 100%. Ineos can still ad a "Camping Mode" software button which would enable 100% charging temporarily. That way I could make sure the batteries are topped up before I stop to camp.

 

[CHM]

My battery has been stuck on 63% for the last couple of months. I realized only last week that my Stop/Start is not even working, presumably because of that.

 

[Jmccmick]

My primary has been the same since midwinter. Brought it to my dealer around feb i think, who charged it and said it was fine. But it drew down to 60% again over the next couple days. Ive since installed a noco plug and 5a genius and would plug in at nights, and after a week it would read 80-90% again, and promptly drain down when i stopped. I installed some cheap voltmeters on each battery, and a renogy shunt on the primary; none could agree on the SOC of the battery, with the renogy shunt usually reading a few 5-10% lower than the ineos SOC. Theyve recently charged it again and load tested it, said it passed, but it completely died camping this last week, with no loads attached. To be clear my aux battery is properly isolated, has a separate shunt, and handles all aux loads.
Ive become suspicious that the ineos has similar electrical gremlins to the LR3 (Discovery 3 to some of you) when the battery begins to go. Ive asked my dealer to replace it, being <1 yr old with 6 months worth of problems, theyve said its not usually covered under warranty but will open a technical ticket with ineos, so well see. Alternatively i will swap my batteries (my aux is always reading 13v, while my primary generally sits around 12.4) and see if that solves things, and then i will switch out the smartpass 120s and d250se since its seeming to struggle with these batteries

 

[Logsplitter]

My primary has been the same since midwinter. Brought it to my dealer around feb i think, who charged it and said it was fine. But it drew down to 60% again over the next couple days. Ive since installed a noco plug and 5a genius and would plug in at nights, and after a week it would read 80-90% again, and promptly drain down when i stopped. I installed some cheap voltmeters on each battery, and a renogy shunt on the primary; none could agree on the SOC of the battery, with the renogy shunt usually reading a few 5-10% lower than the ineos SOC. Theyve recently charged it again and load tested it, said it passed, but it completely died camping this last week, with no loads attached. To be clear my aux battery is properly isolated, has a separate shunt, and handles all aux loads.
Ive become suspicious that the ineos has similar electrical gremlins to the LR3 (Discovery 3 to some of you) when the battery begins to go. Ive asked my dealer to replace it, being <1 yr old with 6 months worth of problems, theyve said its not usually covered under warranty but will open a technical ticket with ineos, so well see. Alternatively i will swap my batteries (my aux is always reading 13v, while my primary generally sits around 12.4) and see if that solves things, and then i will switch out the smartpass 120s and d250se since its seeming to struggle with these batteries

Have you got the Ineos’s dual battery setup and high load/ extra power points set up? If so then existing consumer loads like the auxiliary power points in the footwells, in engine compartment and on the roof outside are all connected to the main battery. So you may be using power from the main battery that way. If you’ve connected extra auxiliary loads to the second battery for which it is not designed for then you could be dragging down both batteries at once.
Just as thought as I don’t know whether you have your own dual battery setup.

 

[Jmccmick]

Have you got the Ineos’s dual battery setup and high load/ extra power points set up? If so then existing consumer loads like the auxiliary power points in the footwells, in engine compartment and on the roof outside are all connected to the main battery. So you may be using power from the main battery that way. If you’ve connected extra auxiliary loads to the second battery for which it is not designed for then you could be dragging down both batteries at once.
Just as thought as I don’t know whether you have your own dual battery setup.

Trialmaster with dual battery setup. The second busbar is now isolated through the smartpass (instead of shunted from the 7position busbar) as per CTEKs wiring diagrams. The high load aux panel is powered by the second busbar (now the second battery). There is no load on the primary battery when doors are closed etc for the night, confirmed by the first renogy shunt. The second has drawn down appropriately with use over 5days camping with minimal sun and short drives. Disappointed in the smartpass however, it wouldn’t charge at the 140a, and seemed to max out and only briefly at the 20a that the d250se puts out. There was a voltage gradient that should’ve activated it, but the IBS doesn’t seem to read it as a load or increase the alternator output. I’m going to pull it apart today to look for a blown fuse, both items apparently have 30a internal fuses that can lead to the same behaviour

 

[Logsplitter]

Trialmaster with dual battery setup. The second busbar is now isolated through the smartpass (instead of shunted from the 7position busbar) as per CTEKs wiring diagrams. The high load aux panel is powered by the second busbar (now the second battery). There is no load on the primary battery when doors are closed etc for the night, confirmed by the first renogy shunt. The second has drawn down appropriately with use over 5days camping with minimal sun and short drives. Disappointed in the smartpass however, it wouldn’t charge at the 140a, and seemed to max out and only briefly at the 20a that the d250se puts out. There was a voltage gradient that should’ve activated it, but the IBS doesn’t seem to read it as a load or increase the alternator output. I’m going to pull it apart today to look for a blown fuse, both items apparently have 30a internal fuses that can lead to the same behaviour

Good luck

 

[Jmccmick]

Well, that was simple enough. Smartpass wasn’t working because it’s cooked. I’ll speak to my dealer and ctek and let everyone know how it goes