First off: I appreciate all the mechanical expertise that people have shared on here. I am not mechanically inclined and have learned a lot from you all. I am an EE by trade and a networking geek on the side, so I thought I would share my ongoing solar/electrical/networking project. Still a work in progress on the wiring side.
This is 400W (2x200 Renogy Shadowflux N-type panels bolted together, wired in series) mounted to DVA Mechanics Dualtrack system. Lowest profile system that seems to be out there. Minimal/no wind or road noise, which I will attribute to the low mounting height and the liberal use of neoprene and epdm washers at all attachment points. I do not plan on removing this as long as I have the vehicle, so I had the roof PPFed as a sacrificial protective layer.
Also, shoutout to DVA, had a slight issue and they made it right. Recommended.
Ran separate 12AWG conductors to the panels through the main EXT2 grommet. While I was at it, ran a second grommet for cat5 cable to bypass Starlink mini router. In a future model, I hope they finally support PoE so it only needs to be one cable.
A note on Starlink: by default, Starlink hands out CGnat, which, long story short, makes hosting a VPN server impossible (for secure monitoring of local, networkable apparatus). Tailscale circumvents this issue using the magic of what they call “NAT traversal”. I use it to avoid relying on Victron’s hosted interface and monitor locally/more securely through the Cerbo GX directly. And it’s free. You just need a router that supports it.
Enter GL.inet Beryl AX, a router with native Tailscale/ControlD/Wireguard support. ControlD is a hosted DNS blocking service that allows you to remove ad/tracker domains and other annoyances at an extremely granular level, which is nice, but more importantly for this use case, minimizes waste of the 10GB-50GB allotment (for those of us who don’t spring for unlimited roam). Proton handles all other traffic via Wireguard profile.
In addition to monitoring solar, I plan to use this to check up on Viofo A329S 3-channel dashcam. This is the only system I could find that allowed true LAN access (not ad-hoc WiFi) using what they call “station mode”. BlackVue, for example, allows remote monitoring, but only through a hosted service that I do not trust. Remote SSD is nice as well in the event of a smash and grab—4TB of storage remains hidden and relatively inaccessible.
Again, still in progress on wiring side. Agile’s overhead Cerbo GX Touch mount and the RCR-Force Switch Pro 12 is on the delivery truck today, will post more photos of the under-seat equipment once all of it is installed.
Solar goes into a Victron 100V 30A charge controller. This system will have two Victron isolated “smart” DC-DC chargers: a 30A from alternator to the secondary ~3.5kwh LFP battery, and an 18A from the LFP to starter. The Victron units have remote switching (just a open/closed contact). I don’t want the 30A to run when the vehicle is off, or the 18A to run when it is on, or either of them to run simultaneously, so I will be using a simple double throw switch with a shared/split secondary contact. If stationary, I will just switch the 18A on and keep the starter topped off. Haven’t had any low battery issues as reported by others, thankfully, but with all this excess capacity, decided to add it.
Almost forgot to mention, LFP has a very flat discharge curve, so you can’t easily tell SoC based on voltage. A shunt is essential. Sticking with victron, would recommend their 500A SmartShunt.
LFP batteries are a commodity item at this point, so I would not overpay for one. In the US, about $100-150/kWh. Just do some research on the brand/model you choose, preferably one that already has a breakdown video for build quality. I have an Eco-Worthy that Will Prowse broke into on his YouTube page. Well braced and the BMS doesn’t sit on top and overheat.
This is 400W (2x200 Renogy Shadowflux N-type panels bolted together, wired in series) mounted to DVA Mechanics Dualtrack system. Lowest profile system that seems to be out there. Minimal/no wind or road noise, which I will attribute to the low mounting height and the liberal use of neoprene and epdm washers at all attachment points. I do not plan on removing this as long as I have the vehicle, so I had the roof PPFed as a sacrificial protective layer.
Also, shoutout to DVA, had a slight issue and they made it right. Recommended.
Ran separate 12AWG conductors to the panels through the main EXT2 grommet. While I was at it, ran a second grommet for cat5 cable to bypass Starlink mini router. In a future model, I hope they finally support PoE so it only needs to be one cable.
A note on Starlink: by default, Starlink hands out CGnat, which, long story short, makes hosting a VPN server impossible (for secure monitoring of local, networkable apparatus). Tailscale circumvents this issue using the magic of what they call “NAT traversal”. I use it to avoid relying on Victron’s hosted interface and monitor locally/more securely through the Cerbo GX directly. And it’s free. You just need a router that supports it.
Enter GL.inet Beryl AX, a router with native Tailscale/ControlD/Wireguard support. ControlD is a hosted DNS blocking service that allows you to remove ad/tracker domains and other annoyances at an extremely granular level, which is nice, but more importantly for this use case, minimizes waste of the 10GB-50GB allotment (for those of us who don’t spring for unlimited roam). Proton handles all other traffic via Wireguard profile.
In addition to monitoring solar, I plan to use this to check up on Viofo A329S 3-channel dashcam. This is the only system I could find that allowed true LAN access (not ad-hoc WiFi) using what they call “station mode”. BlackVue, for example, allows remote monitoring, but only through a hosted service that I do not trust. Remote SSD is nice as well in the event of a smash and grab—4TB of storage remains hidden and relatively inaccessible.
Again, still in progress on wiring side. Agile’s overhead Cerbo GX Touch mount and the RCR-Force Switch Pro 12 is on the delivery truck today, will post more photos of the under-seat equipment once all of it is installed.
Solar goes into a Victron 100V 30A charge controller. This system will have two Victron isolated “smart” DC-DC chargers: a 30A from alternator to the secondary ~3.5kwh LFP battery, and an 18A from the LFP to starter. The Victron units have remote switching (just a open/closed contact). I don’t want the 30A to run when the vehicle is off, or the 18A to run when it is on, or either of them to run simultaneously, so I will be using a simple double throw switch with a shared/split secondary contact. If stationary, I will just switch the 18A on and keep the starter topped off. Haven’t had any low battery issues as reported by others, thankfully, but with all this excess capacity, decided to add it.
Almost forgot to mention, LFP has a very flat discharge curve, so you can’t easily tell SoC based on voltage. A shunt is essential. Sticking with victron, would recommend their 500A SmartShunt.
LFP batteries are a commodity item at this point, so I would not overpay for one. In the US, about $100-150/kWh. Just do some research on the brand/model you choose, preferably one that already has a breakdown video for build quality. I have an Eco-Worthy that Will Prowse broke into on his YouTube page. Well braced and the BMS doesn’t sit on top and overheat.
