Ok this is going to be a long winded and possibly rambling post. definitely rambling...
TLTR:
anyone use an orbital buffer on their truck? and what type/brand ?
now on to the rambling part....
Quick back story because I cross posted this to another forum that I have been a part of for over 20 years, everyone there knows me, and knows I am nuts...
I just cut and pasted the same post because I am a painter, and lazy, all painters are.... and crazy, paint fumes will do that...
I was a professional automotive painter for over 25 years, but retired about 8 years ago, I was Sikkens, Sherwin Williams and DuPont factory certified painter, I know car paint.
But, guess what? painting cars is unhealthy and It caught up to me, occupational over exposure to Polyisocyanides forced my retirement,... It is what it is.
I know this is going to sound crazy.
But, I need to ask.
does anyone here use an random orbital "buffer" on their cars?
I have never used one, I am talking about the old school two handed "buffer" that you used to buy at Sears or Pep Boys for like $50, I never bought one because for my entire career I only ever used a "real" buffer, and was told for decades that the other style were "junk" hence why I never bothered to buy one or even use one, as a matter of fact I was gifted one years ago (20+) and the second the guy left the shop I tossed it in the dumpster..
I know they don't "cut" and are / were specifically used for removing wax from an already polished surface.
Basically a big vibrator that stalled if you put any pressure on it.
I have never seen a professional detailer use one, I am sure there is a reason, but I also don't have very much experience with "detailing" when a car came to me, It needed paint, or heavy cutting that the detail guys were afraid to do, or inexperienced in doing or management told the customer "that will buff out" until it didn't and I had to paint it.
I was a painter, when I was done with a job the car was fully "cut"
Painted, cleared, sanded starting with 1000 then up to 3000 then compounded / polished to a mirror finish and out the door it went with a light coat of polymer "wax" Turtlewax Performance 2001 was my preferred non "wax" wax. then the "car washer kid" finished cleaning it.
Traditional wax and all silicone was banned from my paint shop along with anything that could remotely cause fisheyes including fried chicken, and the helpers that didn't know how to wash their hands after lunch, they got turned into car washers.
I am in the process of evaluating the quality of a few new polymer "wax" since I don't like the new Turtle Wax "performance polymer" formula of the green bottle, and I never liked the orange bottle of New Finish.
I am trying the Griot's Garage "ceramic" wax... that is also something that I think is snake oil... but you never know. What I do know is I am chasing it around the truck trying to get it off efficiently, I have run the gamut of micro fiber towels, terry towels, baby diapers, and the good old standby of a nice worn out Beefy T shirts.
I am not wasting several hundred dollars on a professional ceramic coating on such a crappy paint job.
I have two new cars and quite frankly don't have a desire to "cut" a new car, that and from what I can tell the finish on the INEOS is not great.. My wife's new Kia has a better finish... although it also has a tremendous amount of orange peal but thats SOP for most new "low end" cars now days.
The poor quality of the INEOS finish is really irritating considering the cost of the truck.
Quite frankly if I was still "in the business" I would consider re painting it, or at a minimum sanding it down with 1000 / grey scotch bright and cleanser and re-clearing the entire truck, then fully cutting it, and properly polishing it.
I have done that in the past on customer cars and it was SOP on blend panels, and quite frankly last time my personal truck needed to be compounded I just painted it...
The ultimate "paint correction"
The factory paint / clear is "thin" I can clearly see it, It's got paint on it, but it isn't "thick" like a Porsche or a Benz, which for $100k I would expect the paint to be "thick" the proper term is "depth of finish"
I want to maintain the existing finish, and not get into "cutting" anything, every cut, every compound, every polish, even light polish removes finish that is already thin.
Quite frankly I would have sent the truck back into the paint shop, if it came out of the booth looking like it does from the factory, between the orange peal, the dirt and obvious thin clear in the factory finish.
Britannia Blue with a white top, I like the color, I don't like the thin paint and the wavy flat panels... that's thanks to the design, paper thin sheet metal and shrinking anti flutter foam.
I am looking for a way to just get the wax off more efficiently and possibly use a VERY light polish on it, sitting for hours wiping it with a baby diaper gets old after the first few beers.
Lets face it, I am lazy and the last thing I want to do is spend 10 hours chasing a regular buffer around my brand new truck then spend another week cleaning all the compound out of it, because if you have never used a traditional buffer it slings shit everywhere and has the incredible ability to get compound into cracks that turns to concrete in seconds, not to mention hammering it into any black textured plastic in a way that is completely impossible to remove no matter what you do other than refinishing the part, no matter how good you tape them up, unless you take them off, and I ain't doing that either.
I just want something that I can take wax off with that isn't junk or or a waste of money.
I am seeing a lot of the "new" style R/O buffers look like traditional buffers I am just curious about how well they work before I drop a few hundred bucks on one of those, or..... buy the $50 one from amazon, Harbor fright only offers a cordless version and I am not buying that because cordless rotary tools like that suck.
I learned a long time ago how to not catch a cord with the buffer and choke the heck out of yourself or smash the buffer into the freshly painted car.. (voice of experience)
I know this is going to be a controversial topic, because everyone has their own opinions on the process, I still have my account with my paint jobber so high end professional products aren't off the table, and quite frankly I already have an entire cabinet full them, including my trusty old Dewalt variable speed buffer and an full assortment of pads.
I had to retire my 60 year old Sioux when it started shocking me, not to mention it weighed 10# and would tear your arm off.
TLTR:
anyone use an orbital buffer on their truck? and what type/brand ?
now on to the rambling part....
Quick back story because I cross posted this to another forum that I have been a part of for over 20 years, everyone there knows me, and knows I am nuts...
I just cut and pasted the same post because I am a painter, and lazy, all painters are.... and crazy, paint fumes will do that...
I was a professional automotive painter for over 25 years, but retired about 8 years ago, I was Sikkens, Sherwin Williams and DuPont factory certified painter, I know car paint.
But, guess what? painting cars is unhealthy and It caught up to me, occupational over exposure to Polyisocyanides forced my retirement,... It is what it is.
I know this is going to sound crazy.
But, I need to ask.
does anyone here use an random orbital "buffer" on their cars?
I have never used one, I am talking about the old school two handed "buffer" that you used to buy at Sears or Pep Boys for like $50, I never bought one because for my entire career I only ever used a "real" buffer, and was told for decades that the other style were "junk" hence why I never bothered to buy one or even use one, as a matter of fact I was gifted one years ago (20+) and the second the guy left the shop I tossed it in the dumpster..
I know they don't "cut" and are / were specifically used for removing wax from an already polished surface.
Basically a big vibrator that stalled if you put any pressure on it.
I have never seen a professional detailer use one, I am sure there is a reason, but I also don't have very much experience with "detailing" when a car came to me, It needed paint, or heavy cutting that the detail guys were afraid to do, or inexperienced in doing or management told the customer "that will buff out" until it didn't and I had to paint it.
I was a painter, when I was done with a job the car was fully "cut"
Painted, cleared, sanded starting with 1000 then up to 3000 then compounded / polished to a mirror finish and out the door it went with a light coat of polymer "wax" Turtlewax Performance 2001 was my preferred non "wax" wax. then the "car washer kid" finished cleaning it.
Traditional wax and all silicone was banned from my paint shop along with anything that could remotely cause fisheyes including fried chicken, and the helpers that didn't know how to wash their hands after lunch, they got turned into car washers.
I am in the process of evaluating the quality of a few new polymer "wax" since I don't like the new Turtle Wax "performance polymer" formula of the green bottle, and I never liked the orange bottle of New Finish.
I am trying the Griot's Garage "ceramic" wax... that is also something that I think is snake oil... but you never know. What I do know is I am chasing it around the truck trying to get it off efficiently, I have run the gamut of micro fiber towels, terry towels, baby diapers, and the good old standby of a nice worn out Beefy T shirts.
I am not wasting several hundred dollars on a professional ceramic coating on such a crappy paint job.
I have two new cars and quite frankly don't have a desire to "cut" a new car, that and from what I can tell the finish on the INEOS is not great.. My wife's new Kia has a better finish... although it also has a tremendous amount of orange peal but thats SOP for most new "low end" cars now days.
The poor quality of the INEOS finish is really irritating considering the cost of the truck.
Quite frankly if I was still "in the business" I would consider re painting it, or at a minimum sanding it down with 1000 / grey scotch bright and cleanser and re-clearing the entire truck, then fully cutting it, and properly polishing it.
I have done that in the past on customer cars and it was SOP on blend panels, and quite frankly last time my personal truck needed to be compounded I just painted it...
The ultimate "paint correction"
The factory paint / clear is "thin" I can clearly see it, It's got paint on it, but it isn't "thick" like a Porsche or a Benz, which for $100k I would expect the paint to be "thick" the proper term is "depth of finish"
I want to maintain the existing finish, and not get into "cutting" anything, every cut, every compound, every polish, even light polish removes finish that is already thin.
Quite frankly I would have sent the truck back into the paint shop, if it came out of the booth looking like it does from the factory, between the orange peal, the dirt and obvious thin clear in the factory finish.
Britannia Blue with a white top, I like the color, I don't like the thin paint and the wavy flat panels... that's thanks to the design, paper thin sheet metal and shrinking anti flutter foam.
I am looking for a way to just get the wax off more efficiently and possibly use a VERY light polish on it, sitting for hours wiping it with a baby diaper gets old after the first few beers.
Lets face it, I am lazy and the last thing I want to do is spend 10 hours chasing a regular buffer around my brand new truck then spend another week cleaning all the compound out of it, because if you have never used a traditional buffer it slings shit everywhere and has the incredible ability to get compound into cracks that turns to concrete in seconds, not to mention hammering it into any black textured plastic in a way that is completely impossible to remove no matter what you do other than refinishing the part, no matter how good you tape them up, unless you take them off, and I ain't doing that either.
I just want something that I can take wax off with that isn't junk or or a waste of money.
I am seeing a lot of the "new" style R/O buffers look like traditional buffers I am just curious about how well they work before I drop a few hundred bucks on one of those, or..... buy the $50 one from amazon, Harbor fright only offers a cordless version and I am not buying that because cordless rotary tools like that suck.
I learned a long time ago how to not catch a cord with the buffer and choke the heck out of yourself or smash the buffer into the freshly painted car.. (voice of experience)
I know this is going to be a controversial topic, because everyone has their own opinions on the process, I still have my account with my paint jobber so high end professional products aren't off the table, and quite frankly I already have an entire cabinet full them, including my trusty old Dewalt variable speed buffer and an full assortment of pads.
I had to retire my 60 year old Sioux when it started shocking me, not to mention it weighed 10# and would tear your arm off.
