Truck has finally arrived, not disappointed.

[Jmccmick]

So, of course, I immediately set to tinkering.
Installed morimoto hxb wide beam fogs (because I think it’s silly such a vehicle would not have fog lights); attached to the 10a under hood/EXT1 switch.
Wolfbox 900 camera, I tapped the cockpit fuse box below the ignition for a constant and ignition switched source, and tucked the wiring and box into the left fascia panel below the wheel beside the door.
Used rear winch + to supply a 6 fuse box at the rear for additional lighting, and additional USB and 12v socket.
And under the rear seat, mounted a renogy 500a shunt, and installed a ctek d250se to handle the future hood mounted solar panel by Cascadia 4x4 (Canadian company in BC, they’re working on a hood panel for 100w +/- side panels for an additional 20w each,
First run expected in 6 or so months)
And added some LEDs to the trunk and rear door.
Haven’t decided what to do with my arb compressor yet. I appreciated the rear L-track mount someone else had posted, but would like to use up the underseat space which becomes effectively useless when the child seats go back in.
Planning a bigger inverter and some exterior lights, probably eventually put my light bar on top but it makes enough light that I’m not too fussed about it.
Overall very happy with it so far. Looking forward to see how the Cascadia 4x4 solar works with the smartpass. If it maintains both batteries with the trickle back function and auto-connects for high draw applications than I think I will be done tinkering; otherwise I had been considering a redarc bcdc and sbi to make a more traditional secondary battery setup

 

[QRgren]

Agree with you on the fog lights. I’m assuming those are top mount? Did you just pull the skid plate to install? Any more pics on the fog light output? Are you happy with them?

 

[Jmccmick]

popped the plate off and was pleasantly surprised to find a reinforcement across the width of it. I used simple aluminum angle to build a bracket and tapped the reinforcement with M8 and put come stainless bolts into, with the requisite antiseize. heres a few pics as i went but i quickly became distracted and forget to take more pics. spacing worked out well. the output is very good for short range fog lights, but i havent had an opportunity to challenge them yet. while i had the plate off i sprayed it with herculiner and painted the hooks safety red + an epoxy gloss. wiring the ends was the most frustrating part, trying to fit my fat hands into amongst the other bits.

 

[QRgren]

Looks good! Thanks.

 

[trobex]

Jealous... you do not have a massive 2L sized RHD version footwell intrusion...

 

[anand]

Jealous... you do not have a massive 2L sized RHD version footwell intrusion...

We do.... On the right hand side....

 

[Jmccmick]

Wasnt sure where to put this anymore; didnt see right to leave it in the CTEK thread where most of the conversation had been, so here it is.
Being grossly dissatisfied with the smartpass/DSE250, ive replaced it with a redarc alpha 50r, and have been quite pleased with it during our last two trips.
The functionality of the app for monitoring is great, with some programming options, and recovery function to salvage a dead starter battery.
Also nice for being a clean easy install, and slim profile.
I kept all my + and - conductors isolated to busbars to avoid any sort of confusion of the starter BMS; i expect this isnt strictly necessary but had battery issues and my first starter battery warrantied, so for the extra couple of wires it seemed the simplest way to be confident in isolating the aux circuits.
the littlefuse fusebox* handles the big cables ie inverter and nato, with a smaller bar and and fuses hiding near the nato relay.
All the monitors are consistently similar now.
The shunt on the primary battery is always within 1-2% of the vehicles reading.

*digikey has pretty reasonable prices for these fuses in Canada


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