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So there is or is not 2000w available?

Tazzieman

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I'd just pull the panel off.
Nothing to be frightened of.

Or just wait to be spoonfed.
 
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The labeling is idiotic.

In the US the typical receptacles seen are 5-15 r, (to verts and a ground) and a 5-20 R (vert, vert/horiz, ground). The 5-20 is dual use for 15 and 20a residential receptacles, as NEC permit the placement of 15 amp appliances on 20a circuits.

For discussion sake, continuous duty on all ac circuits is rated at 80%. Read that as including lighting loads and battery chargers. Intermittent use, like a saw, can be 100%. Your 200a main breaker panel in your house is 160a continuous rated. You can get 100% rated breakers, but it's cost prohibitive and generally pointless.

All ratings on inverters and generators are nominal. 2000w could mean there's a transformer that becomes saturated at 2000w, and inrush current's like motors, will eventually kill it by cooking the windings. It could mean its sized so that's the 80% load and its a 2500w transformer. That part is up to the manufacturer and ought to be in the literature. I know this will come as a shock, but, there is a lot of crap sold that doesn't really do what it says, and more $$ for a known brand is your safest bet.

My EE has a gig doing forensic fire insurance investigations. A typical house fire is a 20a branch circuit (16a continuous) with a 15a chinese power strip (12a continuous, assuming they actually tested it and put in material thats even that good) loaded to 21a on a non AFCI breaker (breakers are nominal and don't always trip at the rating), the internal meltdown causing a high impedance short, that creates a spot of intense heat without tripping the breaker, and poof, 3 dead kids on christmas morning. Insurance companies are not big fans of devises like this, for obvious reasons.

As to that labeling without any literature, well, if you don't like your grenadier, you could easily rig that to burn the damn thing to the ground with a higher load than 400w, and you'd get refund. That CLEARLY states 2000w max.
 

DaveB

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The question is, why does the AC outlet plug cover in his Grenadier say 0.2 kW max and 0.4 kW max. The picture he took is from the outlet in the cargo area I believe, why does the cover give 2 max numbers?
Middle one is 2KW not 0.2 KW
Top one is 2.4VA/KW or 2,400 volt amps or 2,400 watts
 
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I'd just pull the panel off.
Nothing to be frightened of.

Or just wait to be spoonfed.
That is a US 5-15r socket with a label reading 2000w. a 15a circuit has a peak of 1800w. By any "reasonable" man standard one could use that receptacle and expect it to run a 1200w coffee pot without damage to the truck or the pot. There's nothing to spoon feed. It is 100% labeled wrong for this country, which is frankly amazing considering the liability.
 
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Middle one is 2KW not 0.2 KW
Top one is 2.4VA/KW or 2,400 volt amps or 2,400 watts
Middle one what? There's only room for one ac receptacle under that plate.

I just looked at an old thread. They are showing one in the back and one by the rear seats. So they are different wattage but they use the same cover plate? That doesn't solve the labeling issue.

Where are you getting this data?
 

DaveB

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The labeling is idiotic.

In the US the typical receptacles seen are 5-15 r, (to verts and a ground) and a 5-20 R (vert, vert/horiz, ground). The 5-20 is dual use for 15 and 20a residential receptacles, as NEC permit the placement of 15 amp appliances on 20a circuits.

For discussion sake, continuous duty on all ac circuits is rated at 80%. Read that as including lighting loads and battery chargers. Intermittent use, like a saw, can be 100%. Your 200a main breaker panel in your house is 160a continuous rated. You can get 100% rated breakers, but it's cost prohibitive and generally pointless.

All ratings on inverters and generators are nominal. 2000w could mean there's a transformer that becomes saturated at 2000w, and inrush current's like motors, will eventually kill it by cooking the windings. It could mean its sized so that's the 80% load and its a 2500w transformer. That part is up to the manufacturer and ought to be in the literature. I know this will come as a shock, but, there is a lot of crap sold that doesn't really do what it says, and more $$ for a known brand is your safest bet.

My EE has a gig doing forensic fire insurance investigations. A typical house fire is a 20a branch circuit (16a continuous) with a 15a chinese power strip (12a continuous, assuming they actually tested it and put in material thats even that good) loaded to 21a on a non AFCI breaker (breakers are nominal and don't always trip at the rating), the internal meltdown causing a high impedance short, that creates a spot of intense heat without tripping the breaker, and poof, 3 dead kids on christmas morning. Insurance companies are not big fans of devises like this, for obvious reasons.

As to that labeling without any literature, well, if you don't like your grenadier, you could easily rig that to burn the damn thing to the ground with a higher load than 400w, and you'd get refund. That CLEARLY states 2000w max.
Interesting and I think you are on the right track
Sadly american wiring is about 50 years behind the rest of the modern world.

I don't mean that as an insult, clearly it still works.

Due to the fact you use 120V your current is twice as high as the rest of the world for the same load.

Transformers are not rated in watts they are rated in VA

DC power supplies are rated in watts.

As this uses a DC to AC inverter it can use both

Assuming this is truly only 400 Watts/volt amps (VA) at 120 volts then you only have a maximum current of 3.33 amps.

If you run a small motor that will probably have a power factor of 0.85 then the maximum power is 340 watts
Inrush current at startup will be around 16 amps maximum for an extremely short time so if it is on a 20 Amp breaker there won't be a problem.

As you can get 5 amps DC out of a USB port I really don't see the point of this outlet.
Too low to run an induction cooktop by a mile and there is no point plugging an AC battery or phone charger in which then converts the power to DC to charge anyway.

Really just looks like a marketing exercise.
 

DaveB

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Middle one what? There's only room for one ac receptacle under that plate.

I just looked at an old thread. They are showing one in the back and one by the rear seats. So they are different wattage but they use the same cover plate? That doesn't solve the labeling issue.

Where are you getting this data?
Sorry I should have been clearer
Middle label
1711455020406.jpg
 

anand

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Are you sure about that? That's not in the owner's manual (400W is). Where do you get your information?
An IA employee who has used it for such, but of course, please double check everything, until someone actually confirms the available power output (either by a sticker on the unit, DC fuse rating, AC load testing), it is somewhat inconclusive
 
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Sorry I should have been clearer
Middle label
View attachment 7849919
But why are you adding them?

This is an ac system from the moment it leaves the assembly (transformer/inverter) and is subject to lagging power, so, the ratings and discussion ought to be in watts. If the label is 2000w I'm assuming they rated the assembly at a .8pf. But honestly, I have no faith. If I actually take delivery of this thing, I'm ripping out whatever piece of shit they put in there and rewiring it.
 
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Interesting and I think you are on the right track
Sadly american wiring is about 50 years behind the rest of the modern world.



Due to the fact you use 120V your current is twice as high as the rest of the world for the same load.
I'm not being defensive when I say I'm not sure whats behind. When I'm in Europe I'm a little amazed at what passes as a code compliant assembly. It all looks rather shoddy actually.

Sure your residential current is 2x but the wire sizing is appropriate, and I can tell you it's much more pleasant for joe homeowner to get hit with 120 v 210. And the 120 is only small branch circuit appliances that get handled. motor loads are 220-460 and lighting is 277. So, granted I'm used to the system but it all works out well for efficient distribution and safety.
 

Stu_Barnes

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Someone that knows the answer as a fact please tell me what wattage I can pull from this outlet.

View attachment 7849869
IMG_3021.jpeg

This is what you’re looking for. I totally forgot to check out the specs when I was in there on Friday. A 10mm socket and t40 torx if I remember correctly and 5 minutes should give everyone an answer.
 

anand

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View attachment 7849925

This is what you’re looking for. I totally forgot to check out the specs when I was in there on Friday. A 10mm socket and t40 torx if I remember correctly and 5 minutes should give everyone an answer.
Based on the size of the wiring, I'm leaning 2000w not 400w; 400w would only draw about 35-40A max, which on a 5ft run should only warrant ~12AWG wire; 200A load should warrant 2AWG wire
 

Stu_Barnes

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It’s discussed here a little, IA state it’s 400w on their site.

I think it’s one of those things that needs to be done empirically.
 

angstorms

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View attachment 7849925

This is what you’re looking for. I totally forgot to check out the specs when I was in there on Friday. A 10mm socket and t40 torx if I remember correctly and 5 minutes should give everyone an answer.
I like where you put the weboost. I was wondering where I was going to hide it.
 

TWExplor

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Forgive my ignorance, but is the standard dual battery configuration even capable of continuously running a 2000w inverter?
 

anand

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Forgive my ignorance, but is the standard dual battery configuration even capable of continuously running a 2000w inverter?
As long as the engine is running, absolutely (even with a single battery). Without it running you could operate a 2KW load for about 12-14 minutes before your battery voltage gets to "damage" levels (50% state of charge on a EFB or AGM)
 

NoMoTaco

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The photo is of the panel with the socket. That’s all that’s labeled on it.
Sorry I guess I wasn't totally clear on which panel I was referring, the panel I was discussing is the large plastic panel that hides that actual inverter (Not the small panel that exposes the socket itself). Removing this large panel is what hides the electrical and other such fixings and would show that actual inverter itself.
 
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Forgive my ignorance, but is the standard dual battery configuration even capable of continuously running a 2000w inverter?
Just look up something like this on the interwebs.

 

AngusMacG

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I find it amusing that @FlyingTexan asks a question, refuses to look up documentation (that may or may not answer his question) then complains that no one is answering his question…If no one can provide the answer you are looking for do your own work and find out.
 

FlyingTexan

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I find it amusing that @FlyingTexan asks a question, refuses to look up documentation (that may or may not answer his question) then complains that no one is answering his question…If no one can provide the answer you are looking for do your own work and find out.
The documentation does not address whether or not there is 2kw there, if it does, show me? it says there's 400w power takeoff which the 400w takeoff plug is located on the outside of that enclosure and is DC based. So tell me since you know, if the outside if a 400w dc based plug that's addressed in the manual and here is a 2.4kw plug that isn't (120v x 20A which is labeled on the plug), is there a 2kw? I'm happy to keep amusing you as you are me right now.
 
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